Lower fuel tank on 2011 Dakota
#1
Lower fuel tank on 2011 Dakota
Hello all,
Another newbie here, sorry. Anyway I'm having a problem with my 2011 Dakota that requires the lowering of the fuel tank to get to the vapor canister. I've looked at many videos to get the general procedure to perform this task and in all of these videos it's a matter of loosening the 2 tank straps, electrical and hose connections and then lowering the tank. My Dakota has a metal brace welded to both frame sections at the front of the tank. This brace holds the bearings and such for the drive shaft. Question: How is this tank lowered if it has this brace? I thought that maybe it was easier taking the bed off but the vapor canister is hidden under the cabin section of the truck and not the bed section.
The only other way I can see is grinding off the welding on the frame and removing the brace. This would leave the tank free of obstructions and could be lowered. Rewelding the brace would be the last step after canister and solenoids were changed. I'm now thinking maybe a couple of holes drilled through the brace into the frame and putting in heavy bolts and nuts might be better than welding the piece. This would let me take down the tank in the future without removing a welded part again.
I need help guys. Thanks in advance.
front shot facing rear of truck
side view showing brace at front of tank
Another newbie here, sorry. Anyway I'm having a problem with my 2011 Dakota that requires the lowering of the fuel tank to get to the vapor canister. I've looked at many videos to get the general procedure to perform this task and in all of these videos it's a matter of loosening the 2 tank straps, electrical and hose connections and then lowering the tank. My Dakota has a metal brace welded to both frame sections at the front of the tank. This brace holds the bearings and such for the drive shaft. Question: How is this tank lowered if it has this brace? I thought that maybe it was easier taking the bed off but the vapor canister is hidden under the cabin section of the truck and not the bed section.
The only other way I can see is grinding off the welding on the frame and removing the brace. This would leave the tank free of obstructions and could be lowered. Rewelding the brace would be the last step after canister and solenoids were changed. I'm now thinking maybe a couple of holes drilled through the brace into the frame and putting in heavy bolts and nuts might be better than welding the piece. This would let me take down the tank in the future without removing a welded part again.
I need help guys. Thanks in advance.
front shot facing rear of truck
side view showing brace at front of tank
Last edited by Dakota Power; 08-17-2020 at 11:44 AM. Reason: put pictures
#2
Grinding or cutting off a welded brace doesn't sound like a good idea to me. If you want to download the 2005 service manual (link in the sticky at the top of the 3rd gen forum or dakotaff's signature block), the instructions for removing the tank are on page 14-16. The 2005 and 2011 should be similar enough for this to work.
Or, if you want the 2011 service manual, you can buy the CD or USB version on techauthority.com.
The 2005 doesn't say anything about the brace. I haven't done this; but looking at the picture you may just have to tip the tank to lower one end and then slide down and forward.
Or, if you want the 2011 service manual, you can buy the CD or USB version on techauthority.com.
The 2005 doesn't say anything about the brace. I haven't done this; but looking at the picture you may just have to tip the tank to lower one end and then slide down and forward.
#3
Thanks Philipat for the tip on that 2005 service manual, but like you said it doesn't say anything about a brace and doesn't show it either. I put 2 pictures on the post to show everyone what I'm talking about. Every single article I've found doesn't mention a brace under the tank on any car. The instructions all say the same, lower a couple of inches to unplug or release any electrical connections, then remove. The space above the tank where the brace is located is maybe 2 inches, not really enough room to lower the rear of the tank to get your hands on top of it. I'm stumped, I'm just going to continue my research on the matter, wish me luck Philipat.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#4
#7
Hi all,
Just a short note to thank everyone who posted their knowledge and help with my tank issue. I've been under the pickup now for about 3 days just checking everything and doing a dry run on anything I could, I'm now ready to tackle the job. All the parts I ordered are now at the Post Office so I'll be going tomorrow to pick them up and start the project. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks guys.
Just a short note to thank everyone who posted their knowledge and help with my tank issue. I've been under the pickup now for about 3 days just checking everything and doing a dry run on anything I could, I'm now ready to tackle the job. All the parts I ordered are now at the Post Office so I'll be going tomorrow to pick them up and start the project. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks guys.
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#8
Hello All,
Just a quick report on the tank issue. Was able to get the tank down and replace the parts that required changing. In the process I broke the nipple on the fuel pump while attempting to remove the connection (ouch). After checking it out it's just a plastic nipple that goes through a rubber grommet that connects to a rubber hose going down to the pump unit. it's just a matter of replacing the grommet and nipple. Does anyone know where I could get these parts new or used, an old discarded pump would work. I'm took a picture of the piece and am sending it with this message. Thanks in advance.to all.
Just a quick report on the tank issue. Was able to get the tank down and replace the parts that required changing. In the process I broke the nipple on the fuel pump while attempting to remove the connection (ouch). After checking it out it's just a plastic nipple that goes through a rubber grommet that connects to a rubber hose going down to the pump unit. it's just a matter of replacing the grommet and nipple. Does anyone know where I could get these parts new or used, an old discarded pump would work. I'm took a picture of the piece and am sending it with this message. Thanks in advance.to all.
#9
If I'm understanding the parts diagram correctly, the only way that you're going to replace the nipple is to pull a fuel pump from a junkyard. Doesn't look like it's sold separately as a part. (https://www.factorychryslerparts.com...rimLevel=29518)
BTW...how did you get the tank lowered?
BTW...how did you get the tank lowered?
#10
Hi all,
Philipat, you're right about getting the part at a junkyard, my only problem is that here on the island we don't have organized junkyards. Anyway I decided to put in a new pump. I'll be picking it up tomorrow (Mon) and should have it running by Tuesday.
BTW.,,,I tried to remove the tank by sliding it back and lowering it and I just couldn't do it. The fit is so tight that the tank just wouldn't slide back past the wire bundles and brake lines going to the rear of the truck so I grinded off the welding on the brace and removed it. OMG, it was so easy after that, so the last thing I'll do is weld the brace back on. Ok guys gotta go and do some ribs on the BBQ. Everyone, please stay safe.
Philipat, you're right about getting the part at a junkyard, my only problem is that here on the island we don't have organized junkyards. Anyway I decided to put in a new pump. I'll be picking it up tomorrow (Mon) and should have it running by Tuesday.
BTW.,,,I tried to remove the tank by sliding it back and lowering it and I just couldn't do it. The fit is so tight that the tank just wouldn't slide back past the wire bundles and brake lines going to the rear of the truck so I grinded off the welding on the brace and removed it. OMG, it was so easy after that, so the last thing I'll do is weld the brace back on. Ok guys gotta go and do some ribs on the BBQ. Everyone, please stay safe.