I was just wondering if there's a bleed procedure for the clutch fluid system on the 2005 Dakota with the 6-speed manual transmission. Or should I just bite the bullet and get a pre-bled kit? Everything is still OEM, no leaks or anything abnormal, it's just an old truck and the fluid is dark as hell.

 

Just flush and bleed the master and slave cylinders with DOT 3 brake fluid.You'll likely need a helper to bleed unless you have a Phoenix reverse bleed tool.Hell, when I had my manual Dakota the only time I used the clutch was starting out or to back up,just like most long haul truckers.Clutch lasted forever.

 

I've got one of these $17, but have been able to do all my bleeding by myself without issue for the past 2 years. No more getting my wife out there and yelling up, down. Then hearing her say I didn't hear you........then having to redo it

 

How would I go about using this tool to bleed the system?

 

You'll need a air compressor big enough to run it.It operates off the vacuum principle.You fill the tool's reservoir with a little brake fluid to keep the syphon submerged.Connect to a air supply and connect the end of the hose to the bleeder screw that is just barely cracked open.Then squeeze the trigger to suck the fluid and air out of the slave cylinder until the air is gone.You can see it through the clear hose. Then close the bleeder screw and disconnect the hose.Make sure the master cylinder always has fluid in it above the minimum line or you will suck in air and drive yourself crazy going around in circles.

 

I don't believe I see a bleeder on my slave cylinder.

 

It's likely it isn't meant to be bled, and if it fails, it comes as an assembly. If that's the case, best you can do is get as much fluid out of the reservoir as you can, and refill with new. Do that several times over the course of a couple weeks, and you will replace most of the fluid at least.

 

I've been doing that to the reservoir for a little while. I've found the assemblies online and just looking it seems like I'll have to remove the fuse box and the driver side inner fender cover to make enough room to do the swap. Is there maybe an easier way?

 

Not that I am aware of. It's basically "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Are you having problems with the clutch hydraulics?

 

It's a little spongy. Not terrible, it still works. But it's soft enough that it's pretty clear it needs maintenance.