Injectors have you replaced? How many miles?
#1
#2
Never. The only thing I've ever done to the fuel system is periodically run 2 bottles of Techron in a full tank when doing a long road trip. Still the same factory fuel filter too. Also changed the plugs about every 50,000 miles (OEM NGK copper every time). I'll clean out the throttle body about that often too.
Make sure your air filter is clean. Also, if you read the "fine print" in the service manual (stickied in this forum), you'll note that the knock-sensor info is disregarded during idle. Why they did that, I'm not sure...But our V6 with a 90-degree "V" (they essentially took the 4.7L V8 and hacked 2 cylinders off it) is not "natural" in terms of balancing for a V6, whereas a 60-degree "V" is (360 degrees of one crank turn divided by 6 cylinders = one cylinder at top-dead center exactly every 60 degrees, or an ignition cycle at even intervals of every 120 degrees as the crank makes 2 full revolutions/720 degrees for the firing of all 6 cylinders). On the other hand, our 90-degree V6 must still fire all 6 cylinders in that same 720 degrees of revolution of the crank, and must still eventually have every cylinder at top-dead center for each 360-degree revolution of the crank, but 360 degrees divided by 6 is 60 degrees...not 90 degrees. So while a 90-degree "V" is natural and balancing for a V8 (360 divided by 8 is 45 degrees, and 90 degrees is a multiple of that), a 90-degree "V" is not naturally balancing for our 3.7L V6...Hence our V6s have a balancing shaft located "inside" the "V" and is rotated by one of the timing chain pulleys, something that is unnecessary and missing in the 4.7L V8.
Anyway, to make a long story long, 1) your engine is not naturally balanced like most other V6s on the market, and 2) the knock-sensor info is disregarded by the PCM at idle. Mine has never been that smooth at dead idle, but above idle, it smooths out immediately. If yours is shaky above idle, I'd be concerned.
Make sure your air filter is clean. Also, if you read the "fine print" in the service manual (stickied in this forum), you'll note that the knock-sensor info is disregarded during idle. Why they did that, I'm not sure...But our V6 with a 90-degree "V" (they essentially took the 4.7L V8 and hacked 2 cylinders off it) is not "natural" in terms of balancing for a V6, whereas a 60-degree "V" is (360 degrees of one crank turn divided by 6 cylinders = one cylinder at top-dead center exactly every 60 degrees, or an ignition cycle at even intervals of every 120 degrees as the crank makes 2 full revolutions/720 degrees for the firing of all 6 cylinders). On the other hand, our 90-degree V6 must still fire all 6 cylinders in that same 720 degrees of revolution of the crank, and must still eventually have every cylinder at top-dead center for each 360-degree revolution of the crank, but 360 degrees divided by 6 is 60 degrees...not 90 degrees. So while a 90-degree "V" is natural and balancing for a V8 (360 divided by 8 is 45 degrees, and 90 degrees is a multiple of that), a 90-degree "V" is not naturally balancing for our 3.7L V6...Hence our V6s have a balancing shaft located "inside" the "V" and is rotated by one of the timing chain pulleys, something that is unnecessary and missing in the 4.7L V8.
Anyway, to make a long story long, 1) your engine is not naturally balanced like most other V6s on the market, and 2) the knock-sensor info is disregarded by the PCM at idle. Mine has never been that smooth at dead idle, but above idle, it smooths out immediately. If yours is shaky above idle, I'd be concerned.
#3
Never. The only thing I've ever done to the fuel system is periodically run 2 bottles of Techron in a full tank when doing a long road trip. Still the same factory fuel filter too. Also changed the plugs about every 50,000 miles (OEM NGK copper every time). I'll clean out the throttle body about that often too.
Make sure your air filter is clean. Also, if you read the "fine print" in the service manual (stickied in this forum), you'll note that the knock-sensor info is disregarded during idle. Why they did that, I'm not sure...But our V6 with a 90-degree "V" (they essentially took the 4.7L V8 and hacked 2 cylinders off it) is not "natural" in terms of balancing for a V6, whereas a 60-degree "V" is (360 degrees of one crank turn divided by 6 cylinders = one cylinder at top-dead center exactly every 60 degrees, or an ignition cycle at even intervals of every 120 degrees as the crank makes 2 full revolutions/720 degrees for the firing of all 6 cylinders). On the other hand, our 90-degree V6 must still fire all 6 cylinders in that same 720 degrees of revolution of the crank, and must still eventually have every cylinder at top-dead center for each 360-degree revolution of the crank, but 360 degrees divided by 6 is 60 degrees...not 90 degrees. So while a 90-degree "V" is natural and balancing for a V8 (360 divided by 8 is 45 degrees, and 90 degrees is a multiple of that), a 90-degree "V" is not naturally balancing for our 3.7L V6...Hence our V6s have a balancing shaft located "inside" the "V" and is rotated by one of the timing chain pulleys, something that is unnecessary and missing in the 4.7L V8.
Anyway, to make a long story long, 1) your engine is not naturally balanced like most other V6s on the market, and 2) the knock-sensor info is disregarded by the PCM at idle. Mine has never been that smooth at dead idle, but above idle, it smooths out immediately. If yours is shaky above idle, I'd be concerned.
Make sure your air filter is clean. Also, if you read the "fine print" in the service manual (stickied in this forum), you'll note that the knock-sensor info is disregarded during idle. Why they did that, I'm not sure...But our V6 with a 90-degree "V" (they essentially took the 4.7L V8 and hacked 2 cylinders off it) is not "natural" in terms of balancing for a V6, whereas a 60-degree "V" is (360 degrees of one crank turn divided by 6 cylinders = one cylinder at top-dead center exactly every 60 degrees, or an ignition cycle at even intervals of every 120 degrees as the crank makes 2 full revolutions/720 degrees for the firing of all 6 cylinders). On the other hand, our 90-degree V6 must still fire all 6 cylinders in that same 720 degrees of revolution of the crank, and must still eventually have every cylinder at top-dead center for each 360-degree revolution of the crank, but 360 degrees divided by 6 is 60 degrees...not 90 degrees. So while a 90-degree "V" is natural and balancing for a V8 (360 divided by 8 is 45 degrees, and 90 degrees is a multiple of that), a 90-degree "V" is not naturally balancing for our 3.7L V6...Hence our V6s have a balancing shaft located "inside" the "V" and is rotated by one of the timing chain pulleys, something that is unnecessary and missing in the 4.7L V8.
Anyway, to make a long story long, 1) your engine is not naturally balanced like most other V6s on the market, and 2) the knock-sensor info is disregarded by the PCM at idle. Mine has never been that smooth at dead idle, but above idle, it smooths out immediately. If yours is shaky above idle, I'd be concerned.
Mine will periodically stall. That is not normal.
#5
#6
Life expectancy? I've never seen a failure with multi port injectors. I'd say without a fuel contamination event they outlive the engine. Just my .02. Last time I had my tires rotated they suggested a fuel injector cleaning with their machine, been meaning to see if that does any good or not. Figured that was for the direct injected cars that have issues with carbon fouled injectors.
#7
Life expectancy? I've never seen a failure with multi port injectors. I'd say without a fuel contamination event they outlive the engine. Just my .02. Last time I had my tires rotated they suggested a fuel injector cleaning with their machine, been meaning to see if that does any good or not. Figured that was for the direct injected cars that have issues with carbon fouled injectors.
For the most part though, injectors are essentially 'maintenance free'. Cleaning them sure won't hurt, and on occasion, will actually help. Flow matched injectors make a nice difference in how smooth the engine runs though. But, is it worth spending the money on? I never bothered, unless I was changing them for some other reason. Back in the late 80's, early 90's, GM had issues with their injectors. Higher grade fuels would actually eat the coating off the injector coils, causing them to short out...... We would regularly see Camaros that ran like crap because of it. We took to keeping a nice stock of injectors, and if we found one bad one, we would replace one. If we found two bad ones, we would replace them ALL.
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Jaded (12-01-2020)
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#8
Injectors are flow matched from the factory and if they get excessively dirty or clogged you are better off sending them out to get cleaned by a reputable injector service shop or sometimes a diesel shop that specializes in cleaning them properly and checking their flow.When they are returned they will function like new.Putting in aftermarket injector may not be the ideal solution because most are not flow matched to each other for consistent performance.So it's better to run Gumout Regane high mileage in a 1/2 tank of fuel a few times and clean the throttle body imho.