2005 Dakota Crank Position sensor
I have a 2005 dodge dakota V6 4WD. I had a code for intermittent crank sensor so I assumed it would be fairly simple and started to replace it. Like many others it seems the sensor broke off. I ended up threading a screw into the center magnet to pull it out. This just ripped the threads out of the screw and the sensor didnt budge. It was in there deep as well.
What do I do now? I am going to try a bigger bolt if possible tomorrow but its not looking good. Can I just melt the sensor with a dremmel? My concern is the magnet or any shavings going into the oil pan because of how much of a job the oil pan is. Would the magnet bit just sit at the bottom then I can change the oil to get any shavings out? Or is this a bad idea. If not I am just going to have to get it towed somewhere for them to deal with it. The weather has made it tricky as Buffalo NY keeps getting obsurd amounts of snow. And i'm doing it in my driveway.
What do I do now? I am going to try a bigger bolt if possible tomorrow but its not looking good. Can I just melt the sensor with a dremmel? My concern is the magnet or any shavings going into the oil pan because of how much of a job the oil pan is. Would the magnet bit just sit at the bottom then I can change the oil to get any shavings out? Or is this a bad idea. If not I am just going to have to get it towed somewhere for them to deal with it. The weather has made it tricky as Buffalo NY keeps getting obsurd amounts of snow. And i'm doing it in my driveway.
Sorry to hear your troubles. This is definitely not the best time to be working on a vehicle in your driveway in Buffalo! My memory is that the magnet/coil is encased in a metal case at the tip, and that's likely what's seized to the block. If you can punch out the guts, you may be able to peel the casing out.
Secondary info; on my 4.7 V8, I started getting the crank sensor shutdowns when the rear main seal started leaking. I replaced the sensor with no relief. I had to have the transmission pulled and the rear main seal replaced. Do you see any evidence of rear main leakage on your V6?
Secondary info; on my 4.7 V8, I started getting the crank sensor shutdowns when the rear main seal started leaking. I replaced the sensor with no relief. I had to have the transmission pulled and the rear main seal replaced. Do you see any evidence of rear main leakage on your V6?
Sorry to hear your troubles. This is definitely not the best time to be working on a vehicle in your driveway in Buffalo! My memory is that the magnet/coil is encased in a metal case at the tip, and that's likely what's seized to the block. If you can punch out the guts, you may be able to peel the casing out.
Secondary info; on my 4.7 V8, I started getting the crank sensor shutdowns when the rear main seal started leaking. I replaced the sensor with no relief. I had to have the transmission pulled and the rear main seal replaced. Do you see any evidence of rear main leakage on your V6?
Secondary info; on my 4.7 V8, I started getting the crank sensor shutdowns when the rear main seal started leaking. I replaced the sensor with no relief. I had to have the transmission pulled and the rear main seal replaced. Do you see any evidence of rear main leakage on your V6?
The V8 sensor actually is pointed at the flywheel
/flexplate in the bell housing space and can't get into the oil pan. I think your V6 is the same. You can pull the little access panel at the bottom and see if it falls out.
/flexplate in the bell housing space and can't get into the oil pan. I think your V6 is the same. You can pull the little access panel at the bottom and see if it falls out.
Oh that is interesting. I feel a lot better about that than worrying about it plugging the pickup tube. Thanks for the help!
Sorry to bear bad news, but I looked it up after I woke from night shift, and the V6 sensor is connected to the oil pan. The sensor wheel is bolted to the #6 crankshaft counterweight. I attached a .pdf of the page from the FSM.
Oh well I guess I'm just going to risk it for a bit then. The pickup tube seems big enough where it won't block it, maybe when I change the oil I can try to get some pliers on it and break it apart to get it out the drain plug idk


