3rd Gen Durango 2011+ models

no horn..

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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 07:09 AM
  #11  
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Do your turn signals function properly? To test the clock spring, turn the wheel 90 degrees and try the horn, continue to turn the wheel lock to lock in 90 degree increments and see if the horn ever functions.

If it works in any of the positions then the clock spring is suspect. If your turn signals don't behave properly or there is a clicking sound when turning the wheel, your clock spring could be bad.
 

Last edited by coldsteel; Dec 1, 2015 at 07:26 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 12:37 AM
  #12  
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I am currently running down the same issue as you are I am thinking it is just the horn itself at this moment.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 08:00 AM
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that what it ended up being. She wanted a louder one, so we ended up getting upgraded versions of both horns (high and low pitch).
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 09:52 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Vladek
that what it ended up being. She wanted a louder one, so we ended up getting upgraded versions of both horns (high and low pitch).
Kinda crazy to this that both the right and left horn went out in such a short amount of time. Do you happen to know direct location of the horns and what you might have changed it out with?
 

Last edited by Dawson Bailey; Mar 4, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Dawson Bailey
Kinda crazy to this that both the right and left horn went out in such a short amount of time.
I thought the same thing, which is why it never even crossed my mind to suggest checking for voltage at the horns directly. But I suspect most likely what happened is one horn failed first, but that wasn't obvious enough to be detected since horn blasts typically are pretty short. However once the second horn failed, it was very obvious there was a problem. I guess the original poster's situation was another example of the KISS principle.

-Rod
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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this is what needs to be done to get to the horns. pretty easy.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SHO Rod
I thought the same thing, which is why it never even crossed my mind to suggest checking for voltage at the horns directly. But I suspect most likely what happened is one horn failed first, but that wasn't obvious enough to be detected since horn blasts typically are pretty short. However once the second horn failed, it was very obvious there was a problem. I guess the original poster's situation was another example of the KISS principle.

-Rod
yes sir.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 10:23 PM
  #18  
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You saved me, I popped the front panel back a bit and saw that the horns were both disconnected, one looked like it was either cut or just popped out of the housing. I was able to hook them both back up and have working horns again
 
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