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I tested both wires leaving plug on alternator and found both to be good(continuity) to the pcm.
Not sure which does what though. One should be sense wire and other should be field voltage to engage alternator. Lower terminal will light test light when connected from positive terminal. Top won't do anything regardless of where connected (positive or negative)

Wires are inserted in plugs to show which pin on PCM.



Should be able to buy another plug to keep from ruining the factory one and add external voltage regulator. If the lower is the sense wire then I could leave it connected to PCM to provide signal that alternator is functioning (prevent battery light from coming on dash) and add voltage regulator to the top terminal to control alternator field and get it working.

And yes I know I could screw up more stuff but I already need a PCM so not like it's gonna matter. I can't afford to drop $1000+ for Dodge to hold for 60 days and hope they will reimburse. Just trying to get it safely running until they get parts to get the recall completed. Then I can decide what I need to do if anything.


Very good article I found for troubleshooting on Remy website

http://www.remyautoparts.com/The-Latest/2016/July/Chrysler-Application-Diagnostics-for-Alternator-w

 

I may be wrong on the battery temp sensor, for some reason I was thinking of my 1999 Jeep TJ which has the little plug right in the bottom of the battery tray. Sorry about that.

Interesting work you're doing and I see your motivation. After reading your posts I thought it WAS running safely but your battery light was just coming on?

 

Running safely until the battery dies lol. Alternator will not engage and charge until normal circumstances. Mopar battery is the real deal. So far it survived the alternator failure and will allow the vehicle to drive a few miles. After it initially occurred and before I confirmed it was the alternator, I swapped the battery with a brand new battery from Wally world. $160 Everstart Maxx. Literally drove 3 miles with nothing( ac, radio, headlights, etc...) running. It was the one that didn't let me get home when it died and left me roadside. Mopar made it about 15 miles. Charged the Mopar battery overnight and it's still going strong I believe. But still not driving the vehicle.

Alternator will engage and charge when I run jumper wire to the Field terminal(see picture) from positive post(jump start lug) on fender. But it's unregulated with that method. Voltage spiked to 15-16 volts. I didn't have any devices running in case it tried to burn something out. The PCM was not connected. But it confirmed the alternator is working great again. Also confirmed that it is not regulated internally I believe.

I think I will order a new alternator plug if I can find the right one and try the external voltage regulator that I see other have done on older models. Not sure it will hurt anything as long as the PCM is not connected and voltage is regulated correctly(14.4) max.

Also sent an email to FCA to let them know my PCM is bad due to the alternator. So I can get documentation if they do reply with how to proceed. Just don't want to bring to dealership until they have parts and are ready to deal with this. Not paying them anything just to wait for reimbursement in case they try and make me pay for PCM.

Prospect62, have you had to replace alternator yet or are you just waiting for the failure too? If so, I can attest to the damage and will say, my local alternator shop only charged me $145 to rebuild. He said the replacement parts are the new rectifier design. Looked totally different than what was factory. Have read where others have bought another alternator and saved their factory one so they can reinstall when the parts are available. Wish I would have done that now.

Just wanted to update everyone on where I stand and hopefully contribute what I can.

 

Oops. Tried replying to another post and it ended up here. My mistake.

 

I'm waiting on pins and needles for it to go kablooey. I refuse to spend my own hard earned money (which is short this time of year anyway) or incur credit card debt when there is an open safety recall on this vehicle which they are refusing to address. I have compiled pages and pages of documentation from other owners which shows a precedent set by FCA whereby they will pay to repair my vehicle if/when it breaks and they will pay for:

- A new alternator (either current or improved design)
- A new battery
- A new or reman TIPM
- A new or reman PCM
- A rental/loaner vehicle
- Towing and storage as applicable
- Associated labor costs

The only thing I fear is being stranded on a cold, snowy road at an inopportune time, such as when I'm driving to work (a job where I cannot just not show up as it is critical to public safety) or having my family with me when it goes bad. We are a few weeks from January when the new parts are "supposed" to be available. I'm hoping I make it, and I'm hoping with the amount of times I've contacted "Dodge Cares" on here and the amount of times I've asked my dealer about this that I will be one of the first ones to get the letter.

 

Well I found out a new PCM cost $325. Dealer thinks I will get reimbursed. Only called to ask. Still waiting for a response from Dodge. Have decided to not try the external voltage regulator after more research. Does not seem like it will work and all the ones I have read about on older models have issues with high voltage (15-16v).

Also found out local dealer will not flash a salvage PCM but a dealer a few miles father was willing to try. Cheapest salvaged PCM I found was$125 with no guarantee it will work for my vehicle. Not sure why someone would buy the $599 "plug and play" from eBay when a new one costs less.

Looks like I'm gonna wait and see if Dodge will respond and try to get the replacement done at the dealer as the PCM is a shelf item. And then submit my pcm, Alternator rebuild and labor for reimbursement. Still would like to know if the rebuild parts for the alternator are acceptable or not. Wish Dodge would publish what is being shipped to replace in January.

Any way that is where I stand.

 

I remember reading somewhere that the PCM software on these vehicles is encrypted. Not saying they can't be replaced but it might be hard re-using a used PCM. I certainly don't think any PCM for these vehicles could be considered "plug and play". I'd imagine a star scan tool would be needed for just about any installation, or at least a proper one.

 

Scan tool used to force a VIN change to the used one VIA "PCM Replaced" procedure. You need the 4 digit SKIM number though. It's Witech tool now. A little pod and an app runs it all on wireless.

 

Amazing what technology can do. Is WiTech something the home mechanic can use or is it a dealer only type system? I'm not too familiar.

 

I have the same fault. in Japan！　　　
I would like to know the repair method.