Is there a specific thing to do before I remove the valve cover on the suv? I was just gonna take the cover off without really disconnecting anything just to see whats going on. Would this be wrong?

 

FYI the 4.7 is DOHC one per head.

 

If you don't know what to look for and if it's simple lifter tap, pulling the cover isn't going to really be any benefit to you, although it's never a bad thing to start exploring and tinkering, that's how I learned. BUT, I didn't start by tearing down a daily driver!

Yes, the 4.7 utilizes dual overhead cams (one per side as Owensue states). It's a good engine, but it does have a couple of achillies' heels. It NEVER rebounds well from an overheat which usually cracks the heads and it is VERY susceptible to oil sludge problems. I recommend coolant changes even more frequently than the manufacturer's specs and a good additive to keep down rust and deposits is a good idea. Synthetic oil use and frequent changes should keep the sludge issues at bay.

The 4.7 gets a bad rap not just because it has the issues I've mentioned but also because the Hemi has 100 more HP while getting as good or sometimes even better fuel economy than the weaker and smaller 4.7. With MPG numbers as good, other than initial cost, there is NO advantage to buying the 4.7 over the Hemi.

But it's a good engine, I personally know a couple of people who have well over 200,000 miles on their 4.7s, a couple of Grand Cherokee owners and a Dak owner...

 

"Hydraulic valve lifters" are cylindrical, spring-loaded gizmos that make the valvetrain "self-adjusting" as the engine runs.

In the extreme olden days, one had to periodically adjust the valves by hand. You purposely left a little slack in there to allow for heat expansion of the various parts. It was better to have a little slop in the valve train than for a valve to be PREVENTED from fully closing. (The latter would interfere with compression and heat transfer, and would ultimately result in a "burned valve".)

Hydraulic lifters are spring-loaded and compressible UNTIL they fill up with oil -- then they become pretty much solid. A "collapsed lifter" is one in which the oil has been squeezed out, and sludge or varnish has caused it to STICK in the collapsed/compressed position. The spring isn't strong enough to allow it to refill with oil.

You won't be able to SEE the lifters just by removing a valve cover. They're buried under other valvetrain parts. A high-detergent oil additive that removes varnish MIGHT free up a stuck lifter.

Good luck.

P.S. - You said you run 5W-30 in the summer, and that you switch to 10W-30 in the winter when it gets cold. This is exactly backwards. The 5W-30 will remain thinner and easier-flowing at low temps during cold startup.

 

You know, the older ford escapes had an issue with cracked exhaust manifolds. I know this, because my neighbor across the street had one and every time he started it, it made a loud "ticking" noise. Something to look into...

 

Haha. Yeah that's what I meant about the different weights. Wow that was *** backwards. Yeah it sucks since it is a DD and I'm not advanced at all on motors so I don't wanna f it up anymore. She says it's a lot quieter since they changed the oil. But what would of caused the oil light to come on? Since I know it's quieter I'm gonna start with an additive to clean up possible gunk and varnish. Then I'll go from there and blacksport I'll keep that in mind. I might crank it up and lay under the front tonight to see if I can pinpoint it.

Man, that's why PM is key to good running truck. Do all the fluid intervals and plugs and it'll keep ticking.

 

Well since I've got roughly 9900 miles on this truck, I hope I will be able to maintain it well enough. Hopefully at least 10 yrs. And then I'll get a Hemi.

 

It's sounding more and more like you have a sludge problem. Oil light when not low on oil would indicate that the pump is not getting oil all the way up out of the pan. Sludge, a clogged screen (also mostly caused by sludge) or just simply a bad oil pump are prime culprits.


I'd start with the Gunk myself and drop the pan when you empty the oil and get a look at the underside. If the screen is clogged, you can get to it and clean it from there as well.

As mentioned, a leak at the exhaust manifold could cause a tap as could a leak at the intake (throttle body), but indications still point to sludge to me. Besides, even if it isn't sludge build up, at 150,000k it's just a good idea to clean it out anyway and the product to do it is cheap enough...

 

That is incorrect!!

The 4.7L is a SOHC. It only has one cam per head.
A DOHC has 2 cams per head such as the 4.6L Ford Cobra Mustang engine or the 550hp GT500 Mustang 5.4L DOHC.

Our 2.0L Caliber had DOHC. One head, 2 cams.

 

That's true, however there are two cams over the heads so :P