Hello! I was hoping I could get some advice regarding towing a heavy boat with my 2003 RAM 1500 SLT. I believe my towing capacity is somewhere between 8,600-9,300 lbs and I’m planning on towing somewhere between 9,500-10,000 lbs. (I know it’s not recommended). I will be towing around 200 miles or so, however the last stretch will be up and down several steep Pennsylvania mountains. I have some concerns regarding my transmission and suspension. The brand new tri-axle trailer will have disc brakes on all three axles, therefore I’m not concerned about braking capability. I do have an upgraded suspension, tires, exhaust, and air intake (see below), therefore I believe all I will need to do is upgrade my factory transmission cooler and utilize a weight distribution hitch. I’ve attached a few links below of what I’m considering purchasing. Along with that, I’m going to ensure that I have a transmission oil flush and replace the gear oil in the front and rear gear-cases. The trailer dealer doesn’t believe that I need a weight distribution hitch and says that my tongue weight will be around 400lbs which I have a hard time believing. Anyone else towing that kind of weight and are you using a WD hitch? Description of the truck, trailer, and boat is below. I’d appreciate any and all input.
Thank you all in advance, - Solomon (Erie, PA)

2003 Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab SLT 4x4 Model DRGH41
5.7L Hemi, 5 speed Auto, Estimate 425 ft. lbs torque & 375 HP
Suspension Upgrade - Rancho Shocks w/Air Shocks in Rear
Exhaust Upgrade – Gibson SS Cat-Back Exhaust System
Air Intake Upgrad – Full kit K&N Air Intake
Oversize Kelly Sfari TSR 285-70-R17 Load Range D Tires (Speedo 3 mph off)
Front Axle 205mm HD
Rear Axle Corporate 9 w/3.55 gear ratio w/ anti-spin differential
Class IV Tow Pack
Factory “Service Pack” incl. Transmission and Engine Oil Cooler

2011 Venture Tri-Axle Aluminum Trailer Model VATB10625
Capacity 10k lbs, disc brakes all three axles.
Loaded with a 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 270 30’ Pocket Cruiser
Estimated total weight (Trailer and boat) = 9,500 to 10,000 lbs.

Items I’m considering purchasing.
Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW http://www.etrailer.com/p-RP66153.html

Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit w/Barb Inlets - Class IV - Efficient http://www.etrailer.com/p-D13504.html

 

First of all, if you were in my state, and the man caught you, you'd get some heavy fines and be forced to pull over and un-hook and make arrangements to have the trailer picked up by a vehicle rated to hook up to it. Secondly, your insurance can choose to not cover you in case of any mishap, leaving you (and your assets) on the hook for any liability.

And now we'll discuss the truck.

Rated capacity IS with ALL appropriate towing accessories used, meaning the use of a WDH is already assumed. Ain't no way you should attempt to pull ANY load over 2/3 the rated capacity of the truck without one. I'd also not consider that much weight (and tongue weight and I think your trailer dealer is looking for a sale here, I don't buy 400 lbs. either) without air bags or at least helper springs.

IMO, too much for the truck & transmission, especially with only 3.55 gearing. 10,000 lbs. over any real distance and hilly terrain, I'd be uncomfortable with a 2500 gasser, to be honest and I grew up on a farm, in farm country and fished competitively. So I'm not exactly unfamiliar with towing. I'd also guess that the 10k estimate is DRY weight(fuel not included), nor does it include any gear, persons, luggage, etc. that may be in the truck or trailer

Lot of farm boys 'round my stomping grounds pull over weight with half tons, but it's usually to get crops or equipment over a short distance and the trucks are usually relegated as "beaters".

Oh and one more thing, you are a "little" off on your towing capacity. A 2003 Ram 1500 QC 4x4 w/ Hemi and 3.55 gearing is rated for a maximum of 7550 lbs. 3.92 gearing increases this to 8550 lbs.

http://dodgeram.info/2003/load-tow/1500.html


I can't stand some of these trailer dealers. But you can test him. Tell him you'll take the trailer conditional to the dealership signing a statement that says they will assume any and all fines and/or liabilities your insurance won't cover in case of any "issues". See how fast he changes his tune...

 

I agree with Hammer. You'll be picking up your tranny off of the highway as soon as you start hitting those hills.

 

Further to this, any ball-mount or pintle hitch should put at least 10% of the trailer fross on the tongue - if your trailer gvw is 10 000, then the math is easy, 1000 pounds on the hitch.
Your ram is rated to carry just over 1000 pounds evenly distributed in the bed - not hanging on the end of the bumper (WDH or not, that's a lot of stress for the frame).

an easy rule of thumb for any trailer with tandem axles, is if they are rated heavier than 3500 pounds, you have too heavy of a trailer (that's for a 5th wheel, and for a tow-behind).

Please be careful.

 

I pull overweight all the time with mine, BUT, It is at your own risk. If my 4.7 manual with 4.10 gears can make the run from Wisconsin to West virginia with a 86 Ram 250, and 450 gallons of paint on a trailer that weighs 2800 lbs dry, (7,950lbs worth of donations to the Apalachia Service Project.) Plus all of the tools and luggage and 3 passegers. I don't have the scale slip anymore, but I remember something like 14,400 total truck and trailer. 4 years ago, I hauled our old dump truck to the scrap yard, and scaled over 22,000 lbs total (74 IHC with a 16' grain body, wheels and tires, and gas tanks removed.) You can pull anything you want, but you could break your truck, or kill someone else on the road, and it will be your fault, and your insurance company won't cover you. I routinely hook a 8,500 lb trailer to the back of mine for work and it'll pull it all day long with no real complaints, However, I replaced the stock rear axle with a D60 from a 3/4 ton. I also run at the speed limit or less, and never ever tailgate anyone. I do not think your auto trans will like you very much. TOW OVERWEIGHT AT YOUR OWN RISK

 

Could you pull it? yes. Should you do it often/very far? no.

The police will nail you bad for this kinda thing. Pulling 10,000 lbs in a gasser with a stickshift is bad enough, pulling a truck on a heavy tiltdeck trailer in my Ram 1500 was frustrating and slow; the transmission really fights towing.

 

HHHmmm. Not the replies that I expected.

The true weight is 9,800 lbs which accounts for 25 gallons of fuel, extra weight added for two batteries, Genset, and gear. Boat weight 7350 lbs and Trailer weights 1800 lbs.

The trailer is a TRI-axle with load range D tires. The new trailer has surge disc brakes on all three axles. I'm not concerned about brakeing. Since it does have three axles, I expect the tongue weight to be around 600 lbs which is within the 5-7% of total weight ratio for trailers over 3k pounds. I have Rancho RS9000 air-shocks in the rear with a compressor under the hood and a wireless controller in the cab so I can adjust the tension on the rear shocks. I believe with those I can handle a 600-800 lbs tongue weight.

I don't have the build sheet, however the sticker in the glove box states that I have a 205mm HD front axle with a ratio of 3.55 and a Corporate 9 rear axle, anti-spin diff. There isn't a sticker on the rear axle, however it has 14 bolts with a tab stamped "3.5". I therefore assume that I have a 3.55 axle ratio, is that a good assumption? I am concerned about my transmission.

Asking around, it sounds like a lot of people tow around this weight with a 1500 RAM and have no problems if they drive conservatively, therefore I'm quite surprised at the responses. I expected most to say, "It'll tow that just fine". After all, the 2010 RAM's with the same engine and axle ratio are showing 90-10,000 lb towing capacity. How can that be?

Looks like I have a factory transmission cooler with 15 tubes and 16 rows of fins. Do you all think that will provide enough cooling? Looks like aftermarket class IV have around 20 tubes. Has anyone used that weight distribution hitch? From what I've read, typically a truck can tow a few extra thousand pounds when using a WD setup. Therefore, if my tow capacity is 8,600 or 9,200, then I should have any problems.

HHHmmm. I have some thinking to do and only a short time frame before I need to pickup the boat.

 

BTW - I have 4 coolers behind the grill - radiator, AC, Transmission cooler, and a small power steering cooler. I believe my tow pack is factory since there is a 16 fin tranny cooler. Any ideas if my truck has an Engine Oil Cooler? If so, where would it be and what does it look like? Thx again.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, but I suspect your towing capacity is nowhere near that much. Mine is 7,800# and it's a 4x2. Your capacity is more like what Hammer said. The 285s have reduced your effective gear ratio to around 3.44. Even if the trailer dealer is willing to sign that liability statement, it won't mean anything.

You most likely do have HD engine cooling.

 

Bottom line is, it's your truck, you pull what you want. Sure, it will pull that weight, but, (1) it's not legal, (2) you will most likely blow something up, (3) or you will kill yourself or others. We can all tell not to do it, but at the end of the day, if you think it's fine, you're going to go ahead and do it. I don't know where you are located, but if you are in my town, I'm staying away from you on the road. That's a disaster waiting to happen.

Do yourself a favor, get something that can handle the weight you have and save yourself some money in repairs and also potentially save a couple of lives.