Have to do an engine replacement. Power Source remanufactured engines?
Looks like I will need to replace my 4.7
I have shopped around online and the best price I could find is $2399 including shipping both ways.
Has anyone ever bought an engine from these guys?
http://www.psengines.com/index.html
Power Source doesn't do the work themselves; they just distribute for some company in Texas who, according to Power Source, builds the OEM motors and does most of the remanufacturing for these engines.
Just looking for any and all input before I take a 2400 dollar dive...
Also, any advice on doing the swap would be appreciated.
I have shopped around online and the best price I could find is $2399 including shipping both ways.
Has anyone ever bought an engine from these guys?
http://www.psengines.com/index.html
Power Source doesn't do the work themselves; they just distribute for some company in Texas who, according to Power Source, builds the OEM motors and does most of the remanufacturing for these engines.
Just looking for any and all input before I take a 2400 dollar dive...
Also, any advice on doing the swap would be appreciated.
Have you figured out what is wrong with your engine yet? I would talk to your local machine shops and get a quote. They will most likely warranty it too. The last time I looked (I also blew up a 2002 4.7) full engine rebuild kits were around $600 or so.
My local shop was going to charge me $360 to bore and hone all cylinders, $56 to install the new pistons, $200 to repair the one bad head. I've seen sets with pistons, rings, rod and main bearings for $200 and timing sets for $175, new valves $100. Of course it depends on what shape your block, crank and heads are in, etc.
Anyway, might want to price out a local rebuild before you spend $2400 + shipping on a rebuilt block. It's probably just a short block right, no heads or anything else?
There is also the junkyard gamble...just saw a 2002 4.7 with 80k for $1400. Let me know if you want help finding a used one.
My local shop was going to charge me $360 to bore and hone all cylinders, $56 to install the new pistons, $200 to repair the one bad head. I've seen sets with pistons, rings, rod and main bearings for $200 and timing sets for $175, new valves $100. Of course it depends on what shape your block, crank and heads are in, etc.
Anyway, might want to price out a local rebuild before you spend $2400 + shipping on a rebuilt block. It's probably just a short block right, no heads or anything else?
There is also the junkyard gamble...just saw a 2002 4.7 with 80k for $1400. Let me know if you want help finding a used one.
$2399 is for a Long Block and includes shipping. Rebuilt heads, reground crank, new pistons, rings, valves, timing components... etc.
I have determined at least one blown head gasket. Lots of top and bottom noise, especially on cold start. Exhaust manifold bolts snapped off in the block... I know it can be repaired, but I fear dumping hundreds into an engine with 181,000 miles on it. It could have warped heads... etc.
I have determined at least one blown head gasket. Lots of top and bottom noise, especially on cold start. Exhaust manifold bolts snapped off in the block... I know it can be repaired, but I fear dumping hundreds into an engine with 181,000 miles on it. It could have warped heads... etc.
Well, I ordered a long block from Accurate Engines.
$1995 plus $300 core and $200 shipping
Supposed to be fully updated (timing chain tensioner issue resolved, oil circulation problems corrected, etc.)
Has a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty.
We will see how it looks on Wednesday when it arrives.
Today I got the engine ready to be pulled. It is loose from the tranny, exhaust, mounts, etc. I got to the top bell housing bolts easily by removing the intake manifold and going from the top.
Just gotta take off the hood and pump the hoist. Tomorrow I'll swap over the oil pan, valve covers, balancer, alternator, etc. I sure hope this works out.
I miss my truck!!
$1995 plus $300 core and $200 shipping
Supposed to be fully updated (timing chain tensioner issue resolved, oil circulation problems corrected, etc.)
Has a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty.
We will see how it looks on Wednesday when it arrives.
Today I got the engine ready to be pulled. It is loose from the tranny, exhaust, mounts, etc. I got to the top bell housing bolts easily by removing the intake manifold and going from the top.
Just gotta take off the hood and pump the hoist. Tomorrow I'll swap over the oil pan, valve covers, balancer, alternator, etc. I sure hope this works out.
I miss my truck!!
Right on. For what it's worth, I didn't have to remove my hood...it went right in. Might be a good time to put a fresh radiator in there too.
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Engine on its way out

Down on the pallet

Unbolting the mounting brackets from the block proved to be the easiest method


AND>>> The reason my engine wasn't running. Plenty of sludge, and 3 exhaust rockers kicked out... one on the pass. side, two on the driver's.
I can't believe the dealership couldn't figure this out! I am quite angry at them. Obviously they never even did a compression test, took off valve covers... what were they doing for the $1200 they charged me??


This was the first..AND LAST time I will ever take a vehicle to the dealership. I was at my wits end with this motor, and didn't have the time to try to diagnose it, so I took it in. Never again!
P.S. Does anyone know how to get the fuel line disconnected from the rail? And where can I get a new rail for a decent price? Are there any universal ones that would fit? They look so much better anyway...IMO

Down on the pallet

Unbolting the mounting brackets from the block proved to be the easiest method


AND>>> The reason my engine wasn't running. Plenty of sludge, and 3 exhaust rockers kicked out... one on the pass. side, two on the driver's.
I can't believe the dealership couldn't figure this out! I am quite angry at them. Obviously they never even did a compression test, took off valve covers... what were they doing for the $1200 they charged me??


This was the first..AND LAST time I will ever take a vehicle to the dealership. I was at my wits end with this motor, and didn't have the time to try to diagnose it, so I took it in. Never again!

P.S. Does anyone know how to get the fuel line disconnected from the rail? And where can I get a new rail for a decent price? Are there any universal ones that would fit? They look so much better anyway...IMO
Last edited by 02QuadCab; Mar 6, 2012 at 09:25 PM.


