anyone know if lift will void warranty?
In general, no. They will have to prove that the modification is the direct cause of whatever failure you are bringing your truck in for. In reality, the dealer may run you around and around telling you that it has and that they won't cover it. It will be up to you if you want to fight it, and how far you'd want to take it.
Are you talking a body lift or a full suspension lift? I've had a 3" BL on my truck since shortly after I got it in 2005, and I've never had the dealer give me crap about it (or the new wheels and 33" tires) anytime I brought it in. This is not the dealer I bought the truck from, either, so they have no reason to treat me any better than anyone else for loyalty reasons. Now, I've had them outright lie to me about stuff they've done, checked or tried to replicate with my truck when it was in for service, but they've never turned me away for warranty reasons.
Are you talking a body lift or a full suspension lift? I've had a 3" BL on my truck since shortly after I got it in 2005, and I've never had the dealer give me crap about it (or the new wheels and 33" tires) anytime I brought it in. This is not the dealer I bought the truck from, either, so they have no reason to treat me any better than anyone else for loyalty reasons. Now, I've had them outright lie to me about stuff they've done, checked or tried to replicate with my truck when it was in for service, but they've never turned me away for warranty reasons.
Google the "Magnuson/Moss Act" this will tell you EVERYTHING a consumer needs to know about what the law says will and won't void a product warranty...
In a nutshell, it states that the manufacturer cannot refuse warranty unless they can prove the modifaction/parts added caused the failure that you seek warranty service for.
For example if you have a lift and blow a head gasket, they still have to warranty the issue.
Now if you have a problem with say a stock suspension part like a ball joint or tie rod and the lift added stress and caused the failure, then they are fully within their rights to tell you to go scratch.
In a nutshell, it states that the manufacturer cannot refuse warranty unless they can prove the modifaction/parts added caused the failure that you seek warranty service for.
For example if you have a lift and blow a head gasket, they still have to warranty the issue.
Now if you have a problem with say a stock suspension part like a ball joint or tie rod and the lift added stress and caused the failure, then they are fully within their rights to tell you to go scratch.
cool thanks hammer. That sucks cause it seems like the ball joints go out on these things soon. Now maybe you guys can answer this and tell me what you think. What about the transmission? and me going with 35's think they could say no because of the bigger tires?
Dealer told me as long as you don't go more than 3 inches it will not void warranty. All you need is a leveling kit for the front end to fit 35's. I installed a 3 inch leveling kit on my 2011 and cleared 35's with no rubbing. Keep in mind that the wheel offset is your biggest concern. Stay as close to factory offset as possible and you should not have any issues with the tires rubbing.
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Backspacing/Offset has NO bearing on how tall a tire you can fit. Where it comes to play is in the width. Actually, the stock wheels are pretty limited in how wide you can go. A negative offset will clear a wider tire than a positive offset...
You are correct hammer,
I ran 315/70/17 on my factory 7.5" rims for a couple months before I purchased my gear alloys. On the 2011 ram I think the offset was a -25 on the factory rims. With the 3" leveling kit on the front I cleared with no rubbing. New wheels were a -18 which pulled the wheel out about a 1/2 inch and made the tires sit flush with the fender flares with a 9" wide rim.
I am not sure on the 20" rims, there are several offset calculators on the net that can help determine tire fit especially with width.
Good luck, 35's really make the truck look great.
I ran 315/70/17 on my factory 7.5" rims for a couple months before I purchased my gear alloys. On the 2011 ram I think the offset was a -25 on the factory rims. With the 3" leveling kit on the front I cleared with no rubbing. New wheels were a -18 which pulled the wheel out about a 1/2 inch and made the tires sit flush with the fender flares with a 9" wide rim.
I am not sure on the 20" rims, there are several offset calculators on the net that can help determine tire fit especially with width.
Good luck, 35's really make the truck look great.


