how much power loss with 285/75r17 toyo MT's on a 2500?
#11
I got 3.73's right now, and if I need to go to 4.56, I think I'll be happy with them.
I totally agree with your views on the 5.7 for a 3/4 ton truck engine though. Awesome engine for a charger, etc. but when I first got this truck, I have to admit I was somewhat disappointed as far as the low end grunt goes. I really want a power wagon...i also think I'd really like a CTD...I don't think I'd like the sticker price of a powerwagon with a CTD...although god knows I'd want one...lol
The old ford 300 I-6 and the Jeep 4.0 I-6 now those were good ol tough engines that had grunt...a LOT of grunt for 6 cylinders...
I totally agree with your views on the 5.7 for a 3/4 ton truck engine though. Awesome engine for a charger, etc. but when I first got this truck, I have to admit I was somewhat disappointed as far as the low end grunt goes. I really want a power wagon...i also think I'd really like a CTD...I don't think I'd like the sticker price of a powerwagon with a CTD...although god knows I'd want one...lol
The old ford 300 I-6 and the Jeep 4.0 I-6 now those were good ol tough engines that had grunt...a LOT of grunt for 6 cylinders...
#12
#16
Well, the tires went on last week. The gears are going in on Monday.
For the majority of the driving I do, and what I do with the truck, the power hit and shift point changes with the change from the 3/4 worn 285/70 nitto HT's to the new 285/75 Toyo MT's is way to big for me.
Majority of my driving is between 80 - 100 km/h, and on hilly secondary roads, etc. Truck won't hold OD until 110 km/h now and even then only if the road is nice and flat, and a lot of the time is sitting in 3rd at about 1800 - 2000 rpm, or "gear searching" bad.
I don't think the increase in size made as much as a difference in weight and rolling resistance of the toyo MT's. I like the tires, but man, you know they are on there. Good piece of mind though for a lot of the places I am with sharp shale and roads that are famous for cutting tires
For the majority of the driving I do, and what I do with the truck, the power hit and shift point changes with the change from the 3/4 worn 285/70 nitto HT's to the new 285/75 Toyo MT's is way to big for me.
Majority of my driving is between 80 - 100 km/h, and on hilly secondary roads, etc. Truck won't hold OD until 110 km/h now and even then only if the road is nice and flat, and a lot of the time is sitting in 3rd at about 1800 - 2000 rpm, or "gear searching" bad.
I don't think the increase in size made as much as a difference in weight and rolling resistance of the toyo MT's. I like the tires, but man, you know they are on there. Good piece of mind though for a lot of the places I am with sharp shale and roads that are famous for cutting tires
#17
Oh yeah, I had my truck in for some warranty work, and they gave me a new 2012 2500 CTD to take home for the night till they were done...
What a engine!
But I would have to DRASTICALLY change what I do with my truck (Haul/tow a LOT more, or put on insane miles) before it would make ANY sense/justification to get one.
At what point (towing/hauling) does it make sense for the CTD?
For me, 1,000 pounds once in awhile does NOT = CTD!
What a engine!
But I would have to DRASTICALLY change what I do with my truck (Haul/tow a LOT more, or put on insane miles) before it would make ANY sense/justification to get one.
At what point (towing/hauling) does it make sense for the CTD?
For me, 1,000 pounds once in awhile does NOT = CTD!
#18
Oh yeah, I had my truck in for some warranty work, and they gave me a new 2012 2500 CTD to take home for the night till they were done...
What a engine!
But I would have to DRASTICALLY change what I do with my truck (Haul/tow a LOT more, or put on insane miles) before it would make ANY sense/justification to get one.
At what point (towing/hauling) does it make sense for the CTD?
For me, 1,000 pounds once in awhile does NOT = CTD!
What a engine!
But I would have to DRASTICALLY change what I do with my truck (Haul/tow a LOT more, or put on insane miles) before it would make ANY sense/justification to get one.
At what point (towing/hauling) does it make sense for the CTD?
For me, 1,000 pounds once in awhile does NOT = CTD!
dang..
you just can't have it all, huh?
anyway- I have a 5.9L Magnum V8 in my pseudo third gen 1500 QC 4x4.. I re-geared it to 4.56:1, and built the engine to build power lower in the range (understand, though, the 5.9 builds power lower than the hemi stock).. I had stock 275/70/20's on it, with stock 3.92:1 gears.. I put 35"x12.5"x20" Cepek FCII's on it, and re-geared.. I pretty much matched stock off the line with just the gear change and those bigger tires.. Still, though, I watch the vacuum signal bury to build highway speeds..
I had my own "come to Jesus" recently.. I'm not offroad enough to worry about having even an AT tire.. I've got too much in the truck to sell it, so I intend to keep it and put (drum roll)...
275/75/17 Nitto DuraGrapplers on it.. I've already purchased the wheels and tires, and I'm simply waiting for them to show up..
I hope to improve rolling resistance considerably, and also low end torque due to reducing the overall gear ratio.. that should equate to better economy and giving me some more torque off the line for hauling and towing (which I do a decent amount of).. It may pick me up from around 14MPG average now to a little over 15.. that's $1600 in wheels and tires for 1mpg.. that is stupid, no? BUT- it's also about building the truck out for how I actually use it instead of what I want it to look like.. smaller tires are easier on fuel- true.. less rotational weight and less rolling resistance- but it is also easier on ball joints, CV's, trans, engine revving.. I'm hoping it will pay off in the next 10k miles in lengthening the life other than economy..
we'll see..
it's good to see someone else who considers use (function) over looks (form) too.. it's a rarity nowadays..
#19
I just took off a set of Nitto Dura Grappler HT's in 275/70 17.
They are a excellent tire, awsome on the street / highway, actually better then I though in snow on the street (lots of sipeing), but not "great" in snow, and really not great in deep/offroad snow. Very passable as a AT tire (NOT mud) and has no issues with dirt secondary roads, etc. as long as it's not greasy or gooey. I'm seeing about a 2.5/3 mpg drop going from the Nitto's to the 275/75 toyo's.
I went to the Toyo's for our Atlantic Canadian winter storms, and unplowed roads in winter, along with thier durability and puncture resistance. I'm on the Fundy coast, and we have sharp shale and granite here that just eats tires. The dirt roads are VERY rocky. I usually have 2 or 3 flats on my dirtbike due to ripping out sidewalls per season. I try to avoid mud, but it's pretty much impossible to avoid ALL mud here.
They are a excellent tire, awsome on the street / highway, actually better then I though in snow on the street (lots of sipeing), but not "great" in snow, and really not great in deep/offroad snow. Very passable as a AT tire (NOT mud) and has no issues with dirt secondary roads, etc. as long as it's not greasy or gooey. I'm seeing about a 2.5/3 mpg drop going from the Nitto's to the 275/75 toyo's.
I went to the Toyo's for our Atlantic Canadian winter storms, and unplowed roads in winter, along with thier durability and puncture resistance. I'm on the Fundy coast, and we have sharp shale and granite here that just eats tires. The dirt roads are VERY rocky. I usually have 2 or 3 flats on my dirtbike due to ripping out sidewalls per season. I try to avoid mud, but it's pretty much impossible to avoid ALL mud here.
#20
Well I personally believe that if your truck is lifted you kinda have to get an A/T tire of some kind because 1)It just looks better and 2) you can't get street tires in a large enough size for a lifted truck to not make it look ridiculous. I might look into dura graps for my next tire since I don't offroad that much either and when I do it's most sand, nothing crazy