I JUST tried my truck (06 1500), and it will definitely go into reverse without the truck running, and the backup lights definitely turn on without it running.

 

Yeah, I had a solid buzz (drunk) on yesterday. Realized I didn't turn the key on to do it.

Replaced the 55w bulbs with 100w's today, will take pics once it's dark.

 

Pics in action

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Did it help with seeing while backing up? Was it worth the the trouble? If so, I think I may want to do this as well... Great thread by the way!

 

Yeah I can see much better, and it looks cool too!

 

Thank you for this write-up! I think I'm going to add this mod to my list of "mods to be completed soon."

 

I'm thinking of adding a resistor in the signal 12v (original power line). Occasionally when going P >> D or D >> P or into reverse I'll get a chime and the lamp out light goes on for a fraction of a second then goes back to normal. I'd imagine this is just the split second it takes the relay to come on so the truck registers no load on the circuit until the relay engages. It doesn't happen all the time, very rarely. Anyone have any idea what size resistor I would need to simulate the load of the usual 3057 bulb that's in there? I think I remember reading somewhere that a 3057 is 30ohm resistance.. not sure though.

 

I know it's sloppy, but im thinking of just wiring up the old bulb into the signal line before the relay. That way the truck reads there's a bulb in there before the relay.

 

Thought about it today and wiring the old bulb in won't work, it still runs through the bulb then hits an open relay making it think there's no bulb for a split second. Maybe it's a cheap relay. Any ideas?

 

Wiring the old bulb in front of the relay should work just fine as long as it is wired to that circuit as it was originally, meaning that the + and - connections are to the same wires as they originally were. Basically at that point, the old bulb would light up as it did before, but will be positioned up-line from its original position. The 12v supplying the power to that light would be the same 12v that initiates the coil on the contactor for the new bulb which runs on its own separate fused 2v feed through the contactor.

This setup would only be an issue when the old bulb burns out, then you'll be back to where you are now until that bulb gets replaced.