Okay so bought 2 weeks ago, was running quiet and amazingly, I am an arborist by trade so do a lot of hauling with OD off. First time with a load noticed oil pressure gauge was fluxuating but never dropped drastically so didn't worry me too much. This go round, different story lost pressure completely so went about the oil change, filter, as went ahead was changing pcv valve, noticed a crack in the hose on the pcv figure that was the culprit, but in process. The end broke in half, I know how to go about retrieving. When pressure dropped this go round it started knocking LOUDLY, with the oil change and all that should the knocking stop?? Hopefully, please say yes.

 

hook up manual pressure gauge for oil to see if you have any pressure at all , also was oil real dirty or was there sludge in oil when drained ? Might need to run something in to flush engine an pick up tube strainer in pan,,but could be to late with loud knocking depending on how long was running that way , might have to try and pull oil pan and roll in another set of bearings and replace oil pump and pick up tube as it may have spun a bearing with no oil pressure

 

Well when it starts up initially gauge is normal after a min or two it goes down ...so idk how much does that normally run? I don't think have the skills for all that.

 

To have the oil pump changed I mean. Best estimate

 

I would flushing system before doing to much , but you really need to hook up a manual style oil gauge for proper readings


How to flush
Oil pump pickup tubes are not easy to replace. The oil pan must be removed, and a new oil pump and pickup tube installed. Chances are very good that if the oil pressure has dropped due to a clogged pickup tube screen, the pump is damaged and should be replaced along with new crankshaft bearings as well. There is a procedure, though, that may help if the damage is not too severe.

Step 1

Drain the engine oil into a drain pan and remove the oil filter. Replace the drain plug and pour 1 gallon of Berryman B-12 Chemtool or a similar product into the engine oil fill. Do not crank the engine. Let the product sit in the oil pan for 2 days before draining.

Step 2

Drain the solvent out of the oil pan. Replace the drain plug and fill the oil pan with solvent once again. Allow it to sit for 2 additional days and drain the product. Inspect it as it flows out of the oil pan. If it is a dark sludge, the process will need to be repeated. Rub the discharge between two fingers and feel for carbon grit. If there is grit present, it will clog the screen. Repeat the process until there is no sludge or carbon grit in the discharge.

Step 3

Drain the flush agent one more time making sure it is free of sludge and carbon. Remove the oil fill cap and let the engine sit overnight with no drain plug or oil cap installed. This will allow the engine to air out.

Step 4

Install the oil drain plug, a new oil filter and add engine oil. Disconnect the engine computer fuse, or disable the engine so that it will not start. Crank the engine for 15 to 20 second intervals several times, allowing the starter to cool between each crank. This will prime the oil pump so the engine will not have a dry start.
Start the engine and pay close attention to the oil pressure. Listen carefully and make sure there are no engine knocks or rattles. If there is noise, the engine requires further repair.

Tip

• Remove the valve covers and inspect the valves and covers for sludge buildup. Normally this occurs when the oil screen is contaminated.

Warning

• Berryman B-12 Chemtool and similar products are very volatile and highly flammable. Use extreme caution while using these products. Do not use an engine flush that requires the vehicle to run. The engine bearings cannot endure this process

 

Labor costs maybe estimated between $250 and $800 while parts maybe around at $150. And could be major difference between different locations in the U.S. , you can get local estimates to get you in the ball park if you cant do it yourself

 

Well.....oil change new filter new pcv and now oil pressure is normal...but...still making sound...other than noise seems to be running smooth

 

I would still recommend a flush to try an clean the pick up tube as it could get weak again if under a load and it cant get enough oil if pick up tube is dirty,,try to see if noise is from pan area or something different , and if its noise in the pan area is sign of a bearing but perhaps it is something else more easily repaired but I would determine what the noise is for sure since it happened with loss of oil pressure unless gauge or sending unit is going out and the pressure was ok and the noise happened to come about at the same time and is something different but I really dont believe in coincidence

 

Okay so today I went out and started it and listen real close and it is coming from the pan area...but it's not NEARLY as loud as it was. Barely a tap tap tap but you can still hear it.

 

You could try an engine oil supplement to see if it'll quiet it down. My father-in-law's 84 v6 mustang was making alot of noise (loose bearings) and we put a treatment of Slick50 in it to see what would happen. It went quiet and he drove that thing until everything else failed but the engine kept on going. That was a LONG time ago, but there are other products in the marketplace now... you could try Lucas, they have decent products.