I've had my 05 PW for about a year now and love it.
I have gone places that alot of the jeepers are having problems.
The only thing i want to change is the skid plate in the front by the front diff.
If you get into big ruts it acts like a boat anker,but the winch will pull you out every time.

 

Hate to hi-jack the thread,

But- I was curious if the 2006 power wagons were also sequentially numbered. It no longer states this on the Window sticker like the 2005's did but I am curious none the least.

Thanks guys.

Ryan

 

My '06 sticker says it is in the Customer Preferred Package "Power Wagon" section, second after the SIRIUS sat. radio info.

 

New it got 10 MPG. has 35,000 mi and gets 11.5 MPG. Took it out mudding in the swampy mud holes in south florida. my buddy has a jeep CJ-8 w/ 42" tires. My box stock power wagon went every where he did and in the end had to trailer him home because he broke his jeep.P.S. I had to winch him out of the mud. (Thanks dodgge for the winch) This is the 2nd best off roader I have ever had.I will be installing a set of 2" spacers in the front, and removing the stacked pieces of leaf springs with a 4"tapered block so that i CAN INSTALL 37" TIRES. iF ANY KNOWS OF A PROBLEM WITH THIS PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE i MAKE A MISTAKE. Other wise I will let you all know how it works out.

 

You should probably get 2' longer end links for your sway bars, or drop them with a spacer also.

 

I am adding 2" of lift to my power wagon to fit 36" or 37" by 12.5 tires. I am reading about wheel spacers. Why ? If I keep the stock rims, shouldn't the off set be just fine? Also does any know if when I do the lift should I get a 4" drop pitman arm and Idler bracket. It looks like the power wagon lift was done with out a dropped set up when I compare it to a stock 2500. Any input would be greatly appriciated.

 

O.K. for those who want to know how to get 37" tires under your ride. This is from me actually doing the deed. I wanted the minimal amount of lift to fit the tires.I also retained the stock rims, and stock shocks.tires are B.F.G. T/A, K.O. 37-12.5-17

remove the wheel flares and wheel well shroud in the front

2" spacer under the front coil spring

Lower the sway bar with a 2"spacer block

Adjust the concentric bushing on the lower control arm, so that the front axel is pushed as far foward as it will go on both sides

Now put the wheel flare on but only put in the front most screw, At the bottom of the fender closest to the door make a mark 1-3/4" towards the door. Now pull the bottom of the flare and mark the new arch of the flare. Now take off the flare, make some perpendicular cuts on the fender to the mark you just made. bend the sheet metal in. You will need to do this so that you have something to screw the fender flare to in order to hold the new radius. the flare now goes over the door (about 1/4" short of the horizontal trim piece), so when you install it in the new location make sure that you hold it out off the door a little or else when you shut the door it will pinch as the door is being closed. By doing this it gave me 5-3/4" from the stock tires to the bumper, and 5-1/2" from the tires to the fender flare closest to the door.

when you re-install the plastic wheel wells make sure you tuck them under the bent sheet metal that you cut.

install 4" pitman arm

install 4" drop for track bar

THAT IS IT ON THE FRONT. when I turn the wheel to an extreeme the tires just kiss the control arms. I recommend wheel spacers. Mine are on order.

FOR THE REAR.....

I wanted to remove the stacked up pieces of cut leaf springs that came with the truck.

I put a 4" tapered lift block in the rear. It turned the axel to line up with the drive shaft perfectly. The bolts that hold the springs together will have to be replaced with shorter ones. I did not know this so my truck currently has the 4" lift block plus 3 of the spirng pieces that came with the truck. It made my rear lift a 3-1/4" lift. Looks good but sits a little lower in the front than it does in the back. the bottom most piece of the spring pieces has a centering pin in it that forces you to have to keep this one on, since the dodge leaf springs have 2 bolts and lift blocks are made for one bolt in the center.

get new U bolts 9/16 x 12-5/8 for a 3-1/2" axel tube

truck rides perfect, handles great. gets a lot of looks.I thought there would be a noticable difference in performance but it feels the same. I will be getting a programmer so that I can recalibrate for the tire size.It already has a K&N filter in the stock air box. this made a big difference in performance and MPG with the stock tires. i guess this is what is helping for the bigger rubber as well

I would include pics with this but the truck is at dodge getting a wheel alighment getting brakes.
the lift kit cost me about $450.00 as apposed to getting a 4-1/2" lift kit for over $800.00
Pics will be in my next post

 

You know that the actual diameter of those tires is 36"...
Why don't you have a Dodge dealer recalibrate your PCM and ABS modules with a new pinion ratio instead of getting the "box"?
Does the box recalibrate the ABS control module too? I heard that your ABS and cruise control won't work if the ABS controller is out of whack between it and the PCM.

 

Anyone know of a way to override the 4-low-only locker situation? Just got my '06 Power Wagon on Monday. With all the rebates, holdouts, etc I only paid $30000 for mine. This truck is god-damn awesome.

 

I don't know about the locker thing, but DANG you got a great price! I thought I did well getting mine for $37,000.