Body Protection
#1
Body Protection
Hey everyone, I'm looking for some experience when it comes to some mopar accesories. I was thinking about putting wheel house liners and the deluxe mud flaps on my 07 Ram 1500. I was wondering if anyone has had any rust issues with theres. Also if anyone has seen any paint damage due to the fact that the deluxe mud flaps sit partially on the outside of the fender. I'm also interested to hear if anyone has had an issue with off roading with the mudflaps. Thanks for the help.
#2
RE: Body Protection
well they shouldnt hurt the paint or anything... i have them on my truck and they will be off soon... mainly because when you are off roading the mud gets clogged right there!!! also i just dont like them i love throwin my rooster tails!!! the only time im happy i have them is when im towing....
#4
RE: Body Protection
Definitely get the Rear Wheel Well Liners. They will protect the inside back wheel well areas from stones, dirt, snow and salt-(if your in a winter area) and keep it all looking good in there. The Mud Flaps may come down to personal preference. The Dodges look less cluttered without them only if you like paint chips and tar on the lower body side areas. I would recommend them also. Keeps the rockers and the lower side bed *** ends cleaner and chip free. A bit of advice though. If possible, install the mud flaps yourself. After seeing how some of the dealer prep guys attach them using a hodgepodge combination of various size screws and bolts, making additional holes where there were none before. The attaching screw package has all you need (actually more) to do it using the existing factory holes. I guess I'm a little **** when it comes to my vehicles, but I ordered them after I took delivery of my truck and put them on myself. At each wheel, I used 2 of the supplied screws to attach to the fender and 2 stainless steel bolts where they connect to the wheel well liners.
#5
#7
RE: Body Protection
Nice write up Big Hook. Deffinetly get the rear wheel well liners and flaps. I put them on myself as well and only used the factory holes and didn't drill any of the holes they seggested and they've held up great. The only thing I did different, being that I'm overly **** too, was bought a productthat is areal heavy mill clear productthat is self adhesive. Itook a little time and custom cut piecses to fitbihind the factory flaps and where it raps around on the body and where it bolts on. Usedit on the rockers and on the bottom edge of the tailgateas well as on topof the bed railswhere thetonneau cover sits.Worksgreat to protect the paint, and unless you look real close can't see it at all. It'sfrom one of those companies that makes the clear bra's for cars.
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#8
RE: Body Protection
Thanks. Well, I have a few pics to show. Hope these pics all show up correctly!
I used 2 of the supplied long enameled headed screws through the existing fender holes. For the upper hole, because the factory wheel well liner has a rounded indent at that location (no meat), I slipped the clip on the fender, lining it up with the hole, and slid a 1.16 inch thick nylon washer in between the clip and the metal to protect from scratching. For the lower screw, the clip fastens to the wheel well liner, so I just slipped a nylon washer between the clip and the inside of the fender then turned the screw in. Since the rear, full wheel liners have the screw clip indents already on the liner itself, I just repeated with the same nylon washers in between the metal and the clip.
For the bottoms of the MF's, After I was finished with the side screws and I was comfortable with the positioning of the MF, I drilled two small holes (that would accept a 7.16 bolt) through both the flap and the liner. I used stainless steel 1.5" 7.16 bolts, head and tail flat washer and tail lock washer (all stainless steel). Using a C-Clamp, it helps at this step to squeeze the two pieces together because there is a bit of a gap once the side screws are in and its easier to drill through the 2 pieces of plastic. On the rear MF's I sliced (notched) out a little more than a square inch or so where the flap meets the liner. I did this because they were pressing against each other and distorting the MF so it wouldn't stay straight. (see photos)
I must say that the longest step for me was determining the position of the MF in relation to fender - how low, how far out - and putting the first (lower) screw in and positioning the flap (with the lower screw in, not too tight, it's easy to turn the flap for positioning). I only want to do this once and have it last forever!
Didn't mean for this install description to be so longwinded but if it helps anyone, this worked for me! Hope it all makes sense.
Tim
I used 2 of the supplied long enameled headed screws through the existing fender holes. For the upper hole, because the factory wheel well liner has a rounded indent at that location (no meat), I slipped the clip on the fender, lining it up with the hole, and slid a 1.16 inch thick nylon washer in between the clip and the metal to protect from scratching. For the lower screw, the clip fastens to the wheel well liner, so I just slipped a nylon washer between the clip and the inside of the fender then turned the screw in. Since the rear, full wheel liners have the screw clip indents already on the liner itself, I just repeated with the same nylon washers in between the metal and the clip.
For the bottoms of the MF's, After I was finished with the side screws and I was comfortable with the positioning of the MF, I drilled two small holes (that would accept a 7.16 bolt) through both the flap and the liner. I used stainless steel 1.5" 7.16 bolts, head and tail flat washer and tail lock washer (all stainless steel). Using a C-Clamp, it helps at this step to squeeze the two pieces together because there is a bit of a gap once the side screws are in and its easier to drill through the 2 pieces of plastic. On the rear MF's I sliced (notched) out a little more than a square inch or so where the flap meets the liner. I did this because they were pressing against each other and distorting the MF so it wouldn't stay straight. (see photos)
I must say that the longest step for me was determining the position of the MF in relation to fender - how low, how far out - and putting the first (lower) screw in and positioning the flap (with the lower screw in, not too tight, it's easy to turn the flap for positioning). I only want to do this once and have it last forever!
Didn't mean for this install description to be so longwinded but if it helps anyone, this worked for me! Hope it all makes sense.
Tim
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