Hi all,

I posted earlier today, but now the truck is doing something it wasn't before. . . so I started a new post. Hope ya'll don't mind.

Here's my post from earlier:


About 50% of the time, especially when I come to a more abrupt complete stop, I notice that the transmission sort of hangs in 2nd (I guess) or remains locked up until a split second after the truck comes to a complete stop. Basically, the engine will rev down to below 500 rpm (about 400 or so) for just about a half of a second and you'll feel the truck sort of want to pull against the brake. Then all is good and the idle returns to normal. It's really no big deal, I just want to know if it's anthing to get worried about. The truck does not stall. I forgot where I read it, but someone posted that the trannies in these trucks like to hold the highest gear possible as long as they can (probably for fuel economy purposes). I guess the best way to decribe it is kind of like if you were driving a car with a stick, and forgot to press the clutch you were stopping until the very last second.

Now for the new update. . . It stalled twice today when this happened. It seems like if I let the truck roll very slowly for the last few feet, none of this happens. When I stop quckly, it stutters and either sometimes recoversor sometimes stalls. Again, It's kind of like the transmission doesn't "decouple" or downshift fast enough when I stop quickly.

Any more ideas?

Thanks to the folks who replied earlier. I'll definitely check the fluid levels. The last owner had all of his maintenence recipts and gave them to me. The tranny was flushed and filled at 30,929 miles in april 2006 and the pan was again dropped and fluid changed again (with ATF 4)at 51477 miles in April of 2007, so he was dilegent about keeping the tranny up to snuff. The truck now has about 58,700 miles on it. I have all of the repair and maintenence record on the truck, and none refer to this symptom. The only real "repair" the truck had was an EGR valve.

I guess there's always a shot that the level is low or my driving habits are a little different than his, and he never had the problem, or he just didn't tell me.

Thanks,
Jared

 

That's a problem with the PCM, or to be more exact, the stock program all the early '04s were shipped with. There is a Chrysler TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) about it that all dealer's service departments have on file. During certain conditions, the idle drops too low, causing a stall. You can always re-start and everything is fine. Since the idle on our trucks is controlled by the PCM (computer) and otherwise is not adjustable, a re-flash of the PCM with an updated program fixes this. Any dealer can perform this. There has been much written on the subject.
My truck used to ALWAYS stall when I'd back up my driveway. I would pass by my driveway, shift into reverse and cut the wheel to start to back up it. Unless I kept my right foot on the gas pedal and keep giving it a little gas, it would stall 100% of the time.
I inadvertantly fixed the problem without having the PCM flashed however. I added a lower temp thermostat (for other reasons obviously) and the lower temp makes the PCM think the truck is still warming up, so it does two things: 1) It richens the fuel/air mixture (the effect I was actually wanting), and 2) it keeps the idle slightly higher, like when warming up. After this install the idle stays up just enough that it no longer (ever) stalls when backing up the drive.
But, like I said, the "right way" to fix this problem is to have a dealer re-flash the PCM with the updated firmware...

 

thanks man.

I think I will contact my local dodge dealership on Monday to see if they can fit me in soon. Is there some specific TSB number that you know of, or should they just know it when I tell them about the problem? You never know, I don't want them trying to diagnose something thats not really a problem then it's just a reflash of the computer that's needed. It would be great to just walk in and say " I need TSB # whatever done to my truck. IF a TSB is published, is the visit to the dealership free? I'll get it done no matter what.

Jared

 

+1 [:@]Hammer is dead on.... I'd of said the EGR valve too but seems you've already had that replaced in the truck....

 

TSB 18-013-05 REV. A

The vehicle operator may experience rough idle or idle fluctuation.

Using a Scan Tool (DRBIIIT or StarSCAN) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual,
verify all engine systems are functioning as designed. If DTCs are present record them on the
repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.
If the vehicle operator describes or experiences the Symptom/Condition, perform the Repair
Procedure.
Repair Procedure:
REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR VEHICLES USING DRBIII:
NOTE: Whenever a module is reprogrammed, the software in the DRBIIIT; must be
programmed with the latest revision level available.

Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Time Allowance:




Labor Operation No:
Description
Amount

08-19-43-91
Reprogram Powertrain Control Module
0.8 Hrs.

 

Thanks Hammer and Hanson. I'll take it to the dealer whenever I find some free time. For now I'll just live with it until I can get it into the shop. Seems like if i let it roll real slow to a stop for the last 10 feet or so, it never really stalls on me, so I can live with it for now. Hammer, you're right, as it does fire back up immediately after stalling.

I really appreciate the tsb number.With every product, whether it's a car, truck, or outboard engine on a boat, it seems like it's tough to find a good shop with some good techs who know what's going on (no offense to either of you guys if ya'll are techs. .. there are some really good ones out there too, they're just hard to find.) I was afraid that if I went to the dealer without a tsb #, they tell me that they never heard of such an update, and that they'd just have to drive it around to figure out the problem, charging me extra labor for diagnosis and never really getting it fixed.

If that doesn't do it, from there I'll clean the throttle body and IAS/IAC valve, which is almost always the culprit on the two fords that I own for idle issues. I don't have any record of that ever being done on this truck. I read from another TSB that you're supposed to remove the throttle body from the vehicle and use MOPAR brake cleaner, and that it's apparently safe to work the throttle by hand while the TB is off the vehicle. Any other tips for cleaning the throttle body cleaner?

From there, it would be the EGR, even though it has been replaced, which looks like a 5 minute, $50 job for me.

Jared

 

I had a similar problem and the way I fixed it was to change the tranny fluid. I did a complete flush (16 qts) and filter change. There was an immediate difference in overall smoothness and the idle problems have never happened again since. The flat tranny pan filter plugs directly into the tranny pump and if it gets clogged or cocked then youcan get the idling situation you're experiencing. Hammer and Hanson's suggestions sound great, I just didn't know about them when I had my problem. I would add to what they've told you and recommend that you check your tranny fluid while waiting for a good time to get to the dealer.

 

My 07 with 1000 miles does the same thing...except it hasn't completely stalled yet. From what i've noticed just driving it around is that the closed loop idle is supposed to be 500 rpms and open loop 600 rpms. When coming to a stop my idle will always drop a little past 500 but once in awhile it'll drop to around 400 rpms and then do a quick surge to 600 rpms...it'll hold that rpm until I come to a stop a few more times and it'll go back to 500. It's almost like it's falling back to apreprogrammed open loop idle so that it doesn't stall

Also does anyone else's rpms not drop down when putting it into gear? I've never noticed this before but yesturday when putting it in gear from a cold start at around 800 rpms the rpms didn't drop at all. It ran good and everything but it felt like I never even put it in drive...is this normal for a drive-by-wire vehicle?

 

I know I'm resurrecting a way dead thread here but I do get some credit for searching right? Lol. Anyways, this has happened in awhile to me until today so I've always just written it off to me driving a little recklessly. But when I'm driving short distances (like around campus) and I rev alot between 1-4k RPM at times and then I have to come to a quick stop and I push the brakes hard the truck will stop just fine but then shutter and stall with the "check gauge" light coming on. But like said i just have to throw it in park and restart the engine and it's all fine but this is kind of a safety issue for me to just let it go. So is it that I just need to change the tranny fluid? I have 37k on the clock and as far as I know the fluid or filters haven't been changed. TB is clean and spark plugs were changed about 500 miles ago