i just recently purchased a small center console boat with a trailer and all of the lights work there is just one problem. when i go to backup the brakes on the trailer engage. this is because it is a surge break system so i need to wire the actuator for the break bypass but how do i wire it? there is a blue wire that i have been led to believe is the wire that controls the brake actuator so i ran it to my backup lights and yet it still does not unlock the breaks the. 7 pin coupler also has a black wire with a butt crimp, a yellow wire with a butt crimp and also a white wire that has a terminal mount on it all three of these wires for some reason were not connected to anything. does anyone know if these wires are my problem or how i am supposed to wire them?

 

i didn't even know trailors had breaks. is the boat big enough to need trailer breaks? if not, bypass all of it.

 

yea in ny if its over a certain weight it needs brakes and i believe mine was clos to it

 

Is your 7-pin connection OEM?

If it is, lookin your owners manual it has a nice diagram of which blade is for/from what function. I would also test the truck and trailer seprately.

http://www.trailertester.com/catalog.html

Scroll down to the middle of the page for the seven pin tester. These can be found at most ADAP, Auto Zone etc.

Also, are you using a brake controller? If not this could send a drop in the power when the trailer is connected making the trailer think it has separated. Most trailers will automatically go into brake mode when the power drops because it thinks it is separated from the tow vehicle.

From Boat US:

Both Hoover and Haley agree it is a wise decision to have brakes checked at the beginning of every season (especially after a trailer has sat outside in rain and snow and wind) and periodically during the season. "Anytime anyone asks me about a concern they are having about their brakes," says Jim Haley, "I tell them to take it in and have someone look it over. The other option is to do nothing and it just isn't worth it." Hoover says a trailer boater doesn't have to know a darn thing about brakes in order to see some warning signs that something isn't working properly:

[ul][*][align=left][size=2 align="left"]Take the cap off the master cylinder and check inside for any signs of rust. This can be done by oservation but the best way is to poke your finger in for a "first hand" inspection.[/size][/align][*][align=left][size=2 align="left"]Look at the brake lines. If possible, try to move them. Inspect for corroded areas and places where cracks might occur.[/size][/align][*][align=left][size=2 align="left"]Look at the backing plate from below the trailer. Check the tires and brake assembly for rust marks.[/size][/align][/ul]

Here's one more example of how brakes can bring heartache, colorful language and wasted time because someone wasn't paying attention. Hoover recalls a summer nights when he was contacted by BoatU.S. Roadside Assistance to help a boater broken down en route to Pennsylvania because his left wheel brake cylinder had frozen up. He made the repair, made sure the boater was okay and drove back to his office. At 11p.m. BoatUS Roadside Assistance called him again. The same boater was broken down 11 miles from where Hoover had left him. This time his right wheel brake cylinder had locked up.

BoatU.S. Director of Technical Services Bob Adriance says the more you use your trailer (and brakes), the fewer the problems you are likely to have. Sitting for long periods of time is an invitation for corrosion to make a home. Having a routine for brakes (either in your backyard or in your trailer service center) is as good a guarantee as you're going to get that the home corrosions elects isn't going to be in your trailer.

Good luck.

mopar74

 

there really isn't a standard for wire color coding for towing, but function is usually the same (except for 6 round plugs, for which there are two) As per my experience, blue is usually the trailer brakes. if you hook the blue wire to your reverse lights, then when you are in reverse, and your reverse lights are lit, then you are sending power to your electric trailer brakes, causing them to lock up. I would take your trailer and truck to a trailer dealership, because they are the guru's and have the testing equip. for both the truck and trailer.

 

What wires? If it truly is a surge brake system, it isn't electric, it's hydraulic.

 

sorry, missed the surge brake system detail. I've got the elec. brakes down, but never messed with the surge brake sys.

 

I could be wrong, but on the trailers that I have wired up, I had to tie into the back up lights to unlock the brakes on the trailer when you are backing up...The wire for the backup lights is on the back of the seven pin connector. It is a white wire with a light green stripe on it...

 

On the actuator, usually on the right side, top and nearer the front, is a knurled **** (3/8" diameter, maybe 3/4" long) that should be sticking out of a curved slot. The slot should have a notch at the end. Before you back up, slide the **** along the slot until it drops into the notch - this will disengage the master cylinder and will allow you to back-up. Make sure you re-engage it before the next trip.