Tips when changing plugs
Hey all,
I've recently purchased an 04' Ram Hemi 4x4 RC. 60,000 miles on it. The first thing I plan ondoing is checking/changingthe plugs. From what I've read, I'm planning on going with the standard Champion Coppers. Do you agree?
More importantly, w/the Hemi's 16 plugs, I'm interested in any advice on approaching this project. I've read that if you take the inner fender liner as well as the wheel off you can approach the plugs from the fender making it easier. Is this a good idea?
I plan on keeping the stock wires, that will be for a later project. Would you agree? or is 60,000 miles also time for a wire change. Seems to be running fine.
any tips are much appreciated.
Thankyou
I've recently purchased an 04' Ram Hemi 4x4 RC. 60,000 miles on it. The first thing I plan ondoing is checking/changingthe plugs. From what I've read, I'm planning on going with the standard Champion Coppers. Do you agree?
More importantly, w/the Hemi's 16 plugs, I'm interested in any advice on approaching this project. I've read that if you take the inner fender liner as well as the wheel off you can approach the plugs from the fender making it easier. Is this a good idea?
I plan on keeping the stock wires, that will be for a later project. Would you agree? or is 60,000 miles also time for a wire change. Seems to be running fine.
any tips are much appreciated.
Thankyou
Standard Copper is recommended, and since you need 16 of 'em, every 30k, your wallet will thank you anyway.
Visually inspect your wires, if they look good, you should be OK till you have to do the plugs again at 90k.
The spark plug swap in a Hemi, is the single hardest plug change I've ever done. I hate to admit it, but since I don't do the tranny fluid myself (too much of a mess), next tune up, I'm doing everything else, but paying for the plugs with the tranny fluid work.
Visually inspect your wires, if they look good, you should be OK till you have to do the plugs again at 90k.
The spark plug swap in a Hemi, is the single hardest plug change I've ever done. I hate to admit it, but since I don't do the tranny fluid myself (too much of a mess), next tune up, I'm doing everything else, but paying for the plugs with the tranny fluid work.
Just do the 8 you can reach LOL. Make sure you get a 5/8s swivle plug socket, it'll make it a lot easier to reach
Rc12mmc4 going off memory there look underneath your hood and itll tell you what plugs to get. Yes champion coppers are the only way to go, some say they haven't had issues with plat but a lot of people have had issues with plat and no issues with coppers.
The genius at the computer at auto parts store will tell you that the computer says you need platinum. Don't listen to him.
As for the wires thats at 100k per dodge, just called the dealership today because there was a question about the wires on an earlier post.
Rc12mmc4 going off memory there look underneath your hood and itll tell you what plugs to get. Yes champion coppers are the only way to go, some say they haven't had issues with plat but a lot of people have had issues with plat and no issues with coppers.
The genius at the computer at auto parts store will tell you that the computer says you need platinum. Don't listen to him.
As for the wires thats at 100k per dodge, just called the dealership today because there was a question about the wires on an earlier post.
Dammit hammer youre beating me to the posts, I'm on my iPhone!
Did maint records come with it? Flush your coolant and put some yellow universal crap back in it. I hate it when people say you need to use the same color as before or itll eat your hoses.
Check the rear diff to see how clean your teeth are. Good luck getting to the front diff. Hammer when should you change the transfer case fluid 90k??? Wait weren't you the one that said they replace everything at 3k? LOL.
I hope youre running synthetic oil, amsoils the best.
congrats on the new purchase.
Did maint records come with it? Flush your coolant and put some yellow universal crap back in it. I hate it when people say you need to use the same color as before or itll eat your hoses.
Check the rear diff to see how clean your teeth are. Good luck getting to the front diff. Hammer when should you change the transfer case fluid 90k??? Wait weren't you the one that said they replace everything at 3k? LOL.
I hope youre running synthetic oil, amsoils the best.
congrats on the new purchase.
Maintenace records are blank. Truck runs well so that was my major selling point. I'm just trying to be proactive on all maintenance. I'm taking for granted most things will need changed. IE. plugs. air fiter, fluids. i figured plugs would be a good place to start.
From the looks of it i'll probably pick up the swivel plug socket. Thanks for your advice
From the looks of it i'll probably pick up the swivel plug socket. Thanks for your advice
Ramman while coppers champs are important they're even more important on a hemi.
SwampFox yeah you'd be cursing up a storm if you didn't have the swivle socket. 5 bucks at oreilys, lifetime warranty.
SwampFox yeah you'd be cursing up a storm if you didn't have the swivle socket. 5 bucks at oreilys, lifetime warranty.
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Why the swivel socket? The HEMI plugs are in the center of the valve cover sitting in an aluminum tube. All you need is a standard 5/8 plug socket,A 3 in 3/8 drive extension,a 4 inch piece of 3/8in fuel hose,A mechanics magnet,and a 10mm and 8mm socket and a flat head screwdriver.
1) remove the tophat and air intake tube
2) on passengers side: remove 2 8mm bolts holding the EGR tube on.(the tube runs across dead center of the valve cover and is wrapped in Ahi-temp sheath) un do the clip where tube goes into the intake manifold @ throttle body, remove tube. Be carefull not to damage the egr tube gasket, it is reuseable unless you damage it.
3) Remove two bolts on each coil (10mm) pull coil gently upward and lay on intake manifold ( there is enough slack in the wiring harness to allow this)
4) remove plugs applying smooth pressure, remember these heads are aluminum! Dont jerk the ratchet.
5) remove plugs with mechanics magnet
6) gap plugs, insert the tip of the plug into the legnth of fuel hose, lower plug into head and thread with hose still attached.( it is impossible to cross thread a plug using rubber hose, but quite easy to do with a socket) hand thread plugs all the way untill they stop, then pull on hose to remove! ( watch hands and elbows)
7) tighten plugs with socket being carefull not to over torque, these dont have to be gorilla tight!
8) repeat 7 more times, then reinstall egr tube.
1) remove the tophat and air intake tube
2) on passengers side: remove 2 8mm bolts holding the EGR tube on.(the tube runs across dead center of the valve cover and is wrapped in Ahi-temp sheath) un do the clip where tube goes into the intake manifold @ throttle body, remove tube. Be carefull not to damage the egr tube gasket, it is reuseable unless you damage it.
3) Remove two bolts on each coil (10mm) pull coil gently upward and lay on intake manifold ( there is enough slack in the wiring harness to allow this)
4) remove plugs applying smooth pressure, remember these heads are aluminum! Dont jerk the ratchet.
5) remove plugs with mechanics magnet
6) gap plugs, insert the tip of the plug into the legnth of fuel hose, lower plug into head and thread with hose still attached.( it is impossible to cross thread a plug using rubber hose, but quite easy to do with a socket) hand thread plugs all the way untill they stop, then pull on hose to remove! ( watch hands and elbows)
7) tighten plugs with socket being carefull not to over torque, these dont have to be gorilla tight!
8) repeat 7 more times, then reinstall egr tube.



