well the driver side speaker is somewhat blown out so i decided to upgrade the system. i've already ordered the speakers, i ordered Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way for the fronts and Infinity Reference 6022si 6-1/2" for the rears. i'm keeping my front tweeters because their half way decent.

but first as always a few questions, do i need a door removal tool? or is a screw drive and just a few tugs enough. second the wiring i've read a few posts that have gotten me confused. can someone determine whats positive wire and whats negative wire?

and yes i know their are better audio systems, and this will sound stupid i did it because i have the infinity badge on my door panel. yupp thats a lame reason but it's true.

thanks in advance for the help. i'm going to post picks of the install to help everyone else when done.

 

coughthatswhyimgettinginfinityspeakerstoocough

 

two screws on the bottom of the panel(front only), a screw behind the handle, and a screw in the back of the handle(pull the handle out and look on the back side of it) and lift the panel straight up. The back doors are the same just don't have the two screws on the bottom. About the wiring, use a tester to figure out which is which.

 

bad idea. bad idea. ur wasting money if ur not gonna bypass the factory amp. because ur buying infinity coax's to put in the doors correct. they ahve a tweeter and woofer all together that's why they are called coax. now when you put those in the doors you arn't going to be using the tweeter on them becasue the factory amp doesn't send the highs to the door speakers only mids. so ur wasting pretty much half of ur new speaker.

and don't think infinity is bad. I love their stuff

also ur infinity amp will die. with new speakers. aftermarket speakers are all at 4 ohm resistance. now what are the chances that the factory ones arn't. 100% chance. guess what happens when you mismatch the resistance of aftermarket speakers with a factory amp that isn't supposed to run at those resistances. you guessed it. cooked. then you have big issues

you have two options when wanting to upgrade the factory amped systems. one is to buy a new head unit and then re wire all four speakers in the doors straight from the headunit. you will not be using the factory tweeter anymore. you will be using your new coax's in the doors for mids and highs. which is what you want. Or you can get a new headunit and get a factory amp bypass harness from american international or metra electronics. this basically uses factory wiring from the amps output and plugs into the new head units output. thus "bypassing" the factory amp. still won't be using the tweeters.

either way you can't just buy new speakers and pop them right in when you have the factory infinity.

 

Funny, the aftermarket infinity speakers i'm looking at are 2 ohm...hmmmm

 

And, as long as your new speakers are the same or higher impedance, the worst thing that can happen is the max volume will be a little less. It's hardly something that'll blow anything up.

 

while in a certain range it can be ok there is still a point where you go too high.but definately going down is the worstthing. but going up still hurts. factory amps are meant to run at a set resistance and that resistance only (big surprise that factory would do that). aftermarket amps have a range of usually 1-4 ohms. with the occasional one that doesn't go down to 1 or some go higher. factory do not have that wonderful range. they are meant for w/e resistance the factory made it at. some factory amps won't even turn on they go itno protect when new speakers are put in. some do not.

and a big wow I looked up infinity speakers and some are at 2 ohms. that's simply amazing. and yet it also kinda sux. because mids and highs are better run at higher resistance. THD (total harmonic distortion) is lower at higher resistance. not a huge deal but for sound quality competition it is stuff to think about.

It still holds true that he would be wasting half of his very nice aftermarket speakers. which would obviously be a bad idea.

 

Just wondering Ben, what would you put in the front door for someone upgrading factory speakers using the factory amp? A component set and just use the woofer? Wouldn't that be a waste of money as well? Is there an option available for the front door that's functional (better than stock) and doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Are 3-way 6x9's the best bet, and just take the loss? Not being rude, just wondering...

 

by the way...about getting infinity's because thats what everything else is and there is logo inside your truck....i have and will probably continue to do the same thing.

 

the speakers i ordered are 2ohm resistance, i got the package today, i have yet to remove the door panel to see what the connections like