headers headers headers.....
#2
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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RE: headers headers headers.....
For best performance you should only look at Long Tubes. As far as coming loose, it's more a matter of installing the bolts correctly.Unless it's a bargain basement brand with crappy welds and flanges, you shouldn't have a problem. In a little over a year, I've checked mine three times and had to re-tighten one bolt about 1/4 to half a turn, once.
The trick is to install them and tighten with an open end wrench (we are talking about aluminum heads here, so no power anything or you could cause MAJOR problems). Drive the truck for a while to let it get as hot as it's gonna get, then (without burning yourself), re-tighten them. They should be set. That's not to say you'll NEVER have to tighten them again, but if you just check the lower ones whenever you are underneath to change the oil and the tops when you add the new oil, that should be often enough. Basically take 10 minutes when you change your oil for a quick check witha wrench.
If loosening is an issue or if you're worried about it from the get go, Moe's Performance sells locking header bolts. If mine ever become an issue, I'll get a set and install them.
One great thing about the Hemi, everything is real easy to get to installing headers. Take the front wheel well liners off and you can do everything from underneath & in the wheel wells. I actually used the top of my front tires as a "work bench". After you drive around and re-tighten them, just put the liners back in. You needn't take them back off to check the bolts, the bottom ones are real easy to get at from underneath and the top ones are very exposed from the top...
The trick is to install them and tighten with an open end wrench (we are talking about aluminum heads here, so no power anything or you could cause MAJOR problems). Drive the truck for a while to let it get as hot as it's gonna get, then (without burning yourself), re-tighten them. They should be set. That's not to say you'll NEVER have to tighten them again, but if you just check the lower ones whenever you are underneath to change the oil and the tops when you add the new oil, that should be often enough. Basically take 10 minutes when you change your oil for a quick check witha wrench.
If loosening is an issue or if you're worried about it from the get go, Moe's Performance sells locking header bolts. If mine ever become an issue, I'll get a set and install them.
One great thing about the Hemi, everything is real easy to get to installing headers. Take the front wheel well liners off and you can do everything from underneath & in the wheel wells. I actually used the top of my front tires as a "work bench". After you drive around and re-tighten them, just put the liners back in. You needn't take them back off to check the bolts, the bottom ones are real easy to get at from underneath and the top ones are very exposed from the top...
#3
#4
RE: headers headers headers.....
HAMMERZ71 has some good advice for torquing the header bolts. I cant stress how improtant it is to go back AFTER a heat cycle and retorque... I would wait till they cooled all the way though, As when the parts are hot they are expanded. When they cool they retract and you will in most case get another nudge out of your bolts. Long tubes are 403.00 with FREE SHIPPING at AIRRAM.com....
SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
#6
RE: headers headers headers.....
Dagnabbit! You guys are gonna talk me into doing this. I figured it was beyond my ability. Perhaps too general a question, but would long tube headers match up to the existing pipes after the pipes are taken off the manifolds? From the description "long tube", I would assume not. How obnoxious would it be noise-wise as I take 'em to have the proper welding done?
#7
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#9
Join Date: Jul 2007
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RE: headers headers headers.....
With Long Tubes, you need to relocate the cats a little farther back.About 18" on my Hemi with the Pacesetter LT's. Then after re-welding the cats back in you need to take some wire and extend the O2 sensors by the same 18". Or, you can opt to just ditch them...