Stock T-Bar crank vs. Kit on 2005 4x4?
#1
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2005 RAM 1500 4x4. I've now read numerous posts on this topic for "leveling kits". I've searched on some companies that sell kits for my truck, but it looks like it's just a new key for the T-Bars. I've done cranks in the past on other vehicles.
My real question is....why is a kit even required (unless, for some reason, there is not enough thread left to turn on the bars)???? Unless my understanding of physics is off...the same tension would be on the bars either way to achieve the lift/leveling. I could see heavier T-Bars, but I haven't seen anyone mention that. Is there something I'm missing???
My real question is....why is a kit even required (unless, for some reason, there is not enough thread left to turn on the bars)???? Unless my understanding of physics is off...the same tension would be on the bars either way to achieve the lift/leveling. I could see heavier T-Bars, but I haven't seen anyone mention that. Is there something I'm missing???
#2
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You would think it'd be the same, but it's not. Although the leveling keys stiffen up the front a little bit, it's not near as stiff as with a bolt crank. I've helped people do both, and the cranked trucks are always a little stiffer up front.
Do the crank before spending the $, if it's not too stiff for you, then call it done...
Do the crank before spending the $, if it's not too stiff for you, then call it done...
#3
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I disagree. The amount of lift is determined by how much you "twist" the torsion bars. Cranking the OEM torsion key bolts "x" amount or adding aftermarket torsion keys to achieve the same amount of lift will result in the same change in suspension stiffness. The reason for this is because suspension stiffness, like lift,is determined by how much you "twist" the torsion bars (assuming you don't change your shocks).
One thing you need to consider is your shocks. Changing your lift changes the resting position of your shocks which changes the spec range of motion or travel in your shocks which will ultimately shorten your shocks life span. It is for this reason I bought a leveling kit with keys AND shock relocation brackets. The aftermarket torsion keys allow you to crank the torsion key bolts more than the stock torsion keys (i.e. more lift) but more importantly the shock relocation brackets allow the shocks to remain within their spec range of motion (assuming the amount of lift you add equals the change in shock relocation).
So yes lugnut, your physics is correct but your terminology isn't. There is no tension (opposite of compression) involved here, just torsion. The same amount of torsion would be on the bars in both cases (OEM vs aftermarket) to achieve the same lift. Why? Because the amount of force (torque) the torsion keys exert is proportionalto the amount the torsion bars are twisted.
One thing you need to consider is your shocks. Changing your lift changes the resting position of your shocks which changes the spec range of motion or travel in your shocks which will ultimately shorten your shocks life span. It is for this reason I bought a leveling kit with keys AND shock relocation brackets. The aftermarket torsion keys allow you to crank the torsion key bolts more than the stock torsion keys (i.e. more lift) but more importantly the shock relocation brackets allow the shocks to remain within their spec range of motion (assuming the amount of lift you add equals the change in shock relocation).
So yes lugnut, your physics is correct but your terminology isn't. There is no tension (opposite of compression) involved here, just torsion. The same amount of torsion would be on the bars in both cases (OEM vs aftermarket) to achieve the same lift. Why? Because the amount of force (torque) the torsion keys exert is proportionalto the amount the torsion bars are twisted.
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I agree with your theory 100%, at least on paper. So much so, in fact, that a talked a friend out of ordering the level kit and into cranking the bolts instead. This is one of two trucks that I have cranked for friends. It was pretty stiff, in fact the guy hated the feel of the front end, so much so, that he ended up ordering the keys about six weeks later. I have driven his truck both ways, and with the keys, although stiffer than stock for sure, it was not nearly as stiff as when I cranked the bolts. This is one of those times when it's different in theory than in practice, at least on his truck...
#6
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So I did notice that a few of the kits come with the relo brackets for the shocks...that makes a little more senseto me. I'm not sold on the keys making any difference in the ride (aside from what Hammer "feels")...but I can see how they could reset the starting position so you could potentially torque the bars more (and get more lift...say you were adding a leaf in the the rear and trying to get a 3" lift out of the process here). I just want to bring the front up....
So....$200 seems like robbery either way...certainly if only really for the two bent metal brackets. Can you get the brackets on their own? What if you just did longer shocks?
So....$200 seems like robbery either way...certainly if only really for the two bent metal brackets. Can you get the brackets on their own? What if you just did longer shocks?
#7
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Here they are cheaper, so it's less of a robbery.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-05...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-05...spagenameZWDVW
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