Can anyone recommend a forum where communicating with a Dodge Technician is direct? Still trying to resolve my 2000 RPM sounds, wondered if it was possible to write directly to Dodge's tech.

Thanks,
EvKar

 

EvKar,

try flatratetech.com. It is a site run by master technicians from the Big Three and many imports as well. I came across the site about two years ago and have learned many things from them. At the time I owned a F150 and wanted to see if there were any maintenance issues with it, like blowing spark plugs out the head, that I might want to watch for. Before I went to buy a Ram, I went to flatratetech.com to see what problems Rams were having. I came across the brake rotor warpping issue, but found out that they are suppose to be using the setup from the new Durango in the 04's and it was working. I also read that the valve spring issue was rare and that the Hemi engine was a good design. No major problems. You will be able to reach a Dodge tech with your question. Good luck.

Mark B. http://www.flatratetech.com

 

i have a problem. my 03'qc hemi recently had a 6" super lift put on it. also had 17x9 weld mountain crushers installed. now it gets interesting. when in 4hi or 4low i get alot of noise. almost like something is binding. it originaly sounded like a universal problem. turned out that wasn't it. the truck was on the lift, looked closely at the joints and there was no problems to see.we also pulled the carrier cover and also no problem. the last thing we did was lower the angle of the transfer case. the loud binding noise remains; almost always at a good turn. the noise sounds like it coinsides with the rotation of the foward universal shaft. while driving slow[5mph] and turning the binding seems to slow the truck to a stop. it sounds like a pop pop pop pop pop for every rotation of the driveshaft; and it isn't the mud guards. called superlift techs and nobody had any ideas. could this be a transfercase issue? any info or similar issues would help me out alot.

 

I think it may be normal, might not be good, but normal.
Mine makes that same noise in 4wheel drive if I turn to sharp, and mines stock.
But this only seems to happen when I turn the wheel all the way left or right.
Try going to a dealership and test drive a stock 4X4 and see if it does it on that one,
you wont even have to leave the lot.

Hows that lift working out? (pics please) also 1500 or 2500?

 

my truck is a 2500. as for the picks; i have to update them. i will send them soon. now if your truck is making this noise there is a major problem. i would say take it to the dealer and put that waranty to good use. when explained the problem i don't know if anyone out there can realy understand just how bad it is unless you are there to see and hear it. as i said the binding literally brings the truck to a stop. also i left out it sometimes did do it when i was going straight. not nearly as much as when in a turn. to describe it better-it sounds like the tires rubbing extremly hard on the mud guards. of course it is not that though. just to let you know a few guys i know have the same truck, same lift, and same tire size and smooth in and out of 4x4. crazy isn't it? your truck sounds like it has a flaw from the factory. my truck never did this before. this is only the 2nd winter season for my truck. i can only limit the problem to the transfercase. hopefully not that is a costly fix. keep me informed on your truck. when i figure this out on monday or tuesday i will let you know. keep in touch. thanks for your response.

 

You guys with the binding problem when the truck is turning. Sounds exactly like the problem I had. Do you have the anti-slip differential? Have you had the fluid changed? My dealer changed my fluid and neglected to add the special lubricant for the anti-slip diff. My truck did binding just like you describe. After 3 trips to the dealer they found the problem, they had not added the special lubricant needed by for the anti slip. They added the right stuff and the problem stopped. There are clutches inside the rear end and these clutches are binding when you turn the wheel sharp at slow speeds.

Kevin

 

you are not on pavement when you are testing this out are you? If so you are creating gear bind, otherwise i agree with mackev.

 

thank you everybody for the info. now the problem was in fact in the driveshaft. the center c-v joint had a blown seal and a sheared pin. that was all the noise and the binding. i had it fixed and 4x4 is now smooth on dry or snow covered ground. the rolling over of the front tires is still there but that is normal in 4 wheel drive. now to the guy that said his truck makes the same noise and the same vibrating and binding your c-v joint may be bad. i'm sure most of you know about lowering your transfercase to relieve the foward driveshaft angle. this of course extends the life of the c-v joint and the universal joints. also if you like offroading it is not a bad idea to install suspension travel straps. this also stops overtravel of the suspension when the front tires become airborne. pics of my truck still to come. i would like to see some pics of some of the other lifted hemis out there.

 

fxrtd. Thanks for the link. Looks like a good site to learn something new.[sm=smiley20.gif]

 

Hi All,

So I have a very odd issue to say the least. The TIPM (which has been replaced 3 times and all 3 showed same behavior as the original) is taking in 12V on the starter relay wire but only outputting 4-5v on the output signal wire. It starts randomly but much of the time it just bumps the starter. I have not been able to observe to see what the voltage is when it starts. All other wiring has been checked and before I wire this up like a semi and give it push button start by bypassing that part of the relay I am looking for any thoughts anyone may have. I will be trying a hard reset at this point as it is one of the last possible options. PLEASE NOTE. This is not just clicking like it would with low battery and the battery is brand new as are the terminals and even the ignition switch, this is bumping over like if you just barely engaged the starter. If it wasn't putting 12V into the input I would have much more suspicion as to it being possibly the ignition switch. I had also thought that the key itself may be the issue as it started acting up around that time not unlocking the doors etc but then a second new battery (guess the harbor freight ones were junk as I suspected) the key fob now unlocks the doors just fine. At this point beyond a hard reset (pulling and holding battery cables together for 30 seconds) I'm open to any other thoughts. All grounds have been checked as well, sorry so much been done I'm probably forgetting a bunch of it.