well i was never able to upload it to youtube, and the video is on my desktop at my dads house. i wont be there again until this weekend, but maybe i can have my girlfriend stop by and send it to me so i can go ahead and send it to you or try and put it on youtube again. as for my truck, on my way home tonight from my dads to my moms, when i first started up the truck she lost pressure for about 30 seconds, then regained pressure and stayed right where it should for my whole 15 mile trip. i stayed below 2500 rpms the whole way though, so i wonder if that has anything to do with it, but i was very happy to see it kept oil pressure for that long in stop in go traffic. it has yet to do so since the problem has occured. hopefully its a sign to something, but im not counting my chickens before they hatch yet. im just hoping maybe with the new oil and seafoam, maybe the blockage dissapated or something.

 

i'm thinking you are slowly solving your problem. the high oil pressure to me was a good sign. it could have been caused by a blockage tha suddenly went away. how long did it stay high?

and yes drain your oil again. you can't do a sludge flush with just one oil change! i just thought it might take more than 15 miles. it must have been really bad for it to gum back up that quick. but i really think you're still going to have to clean that screen, and possibly get a new pump.

 

mmstar23,

I was gone with family from out of town (Cedar Point)-man is that's expensivebut fun!!!.

I had to go back and re-read what's been happening. The mechanical guage doesn't have to be an "oil pressure guage"it can be almost any guage 0-100 psi, that will mate to the oil port thread, or a fitting such as compression to copper line to guage, simplest way I can think of for a temporary connection. Don't wind this in too tight, just some thread seal, none below the last threat, and comfortably tight.

From reading what's been posted, this sounds like a case of severe sludging. Change to good quality dino oil Quaker State is fine, don't worry so much about the level, most of the Seafoam will evaporate as it is used. Full oil and filter change, 1 pint of Seafoam (1 can) and leave it in for 500 miles. change oil, and filter. SAVE THE FILTER. DON'T SKIMP ON THE FILTER, go with a mobil 1-it allows progressive loading of the filter media and has a high quality bypass relief valve.

The vapors from the crankcase will clean the EGR circuit as you run it. It doesn't hurt to add to the gas, but that is mainly top end cleaning, injector nozzles, intake runners, valves etc. It also helps to capture residual water in the tank and burn it too, which is good, because excess water in the fuel rails for Dodges can cause rusting problems too, which can plug injector inlet screens.
A whole different headache you don't want to experience.

It doesn't appear that the oil pressure sensor "stuff" is malfunctioning, as it held good pressure and you did't get the dreaded "low oil pressure ticking"

It might be good to change the oil every 1000 miles with Seafoam added after the first 500, until the oil starts coming out looking almost like it was when put in, slightly darkend, but clear.

Now to the filter you saved. Allow it to drain well, but don't shake it up or drop it or tap it on the floor. If you can get your hands on a dremel tool, chuck up a cutter wheel, cut the oil case off at the seam to expose the filter media. Once you have it opened up, check the loading of the pleats in the filter. If they're heavily loaded, you've been plugging and bypassing the filter, if not-there's a good chance that the pickup screen was plugged with flaked carbon deposits from the oil sides areas of the engine internals-all overcrankcase walls, rods, crankshaft, top end of the heads, oil ports and runways.etc, etc. Lots of area to form this sludge/carbon coatingnasty stuff.

Once your satisfied that you got the internals fairly cleaned up, go back to synthetic, with good filters.
Once you've changed back to synthetic, drain some out after 500 miles and see if its still clean and clearit should be. if not, the saga continues. Change the filter out again, right there and then, add the oil you drained out back in plus one quart for the filter. Continue to add the Seafoam to all oil changes and leave it in until the deposit removal is done. Once your getting clear darkened synthetic back, you really don't need to add the Seafoam anymore to the crankcase for cleanup. The synthetic will do that for you. If you run your synthetic to extened drain intervals like myself (7500 miles), change the filter midway. It does take a long time to SLOWLY remove all the deposits.

Hope this helps-keep us all posted on how it goes.

 

i drove it around this morning too, never lost pressure and it was great. just jumped back in it to take it for a spin around the neighborhood and it NEVER gained pressure, sat at 0 the whole ride, its never done that, theres always been atleast1 time where it jumped to normal and then fell back down

 

try not to drive it if it says 0 bro. it might just be that the gauge is mucked too, but don't risk that. you caught it before it f'd your engine, don't ruin it by driving when there might not be pressure. you're just going to have to keep flushing like gone fishin said. this isn't a quick fix, but it will save your truck. or if you can just take it one weekend and drop the trans and the pan, it can be done a lot faster cuz you can clean most of it out from underneath.

 

me drop the tranny? haha! if i could man....i would, that IMO is something a shop would have to do. i would have no idea how to do that, how to get it back in and how not to mess anything up. i guess im just going to have to keep doinf oil changes with seafoam, but doesnt it have to be driven to get all the new oil through it and evrything?

 

yea, it needs to get driven. but yours is an on and off problem. try not to drive when it is there.

 

Get the guage-confirm whether its mechanical or electronic.

Man-were do you live??? If you're near me, I'll help you!!!

I got all the **** in my tool box for this. Its a 1000 times easier to show than explain.

When you drove it, did it start ticking when it was at full temp??like before?

Pull the sending unit out, make sure it isn't blocked with crud. If the oil filter got plugged it went into bypass and shot a bunch of crud up past the sending unit port and may have blocked it.

Man I got this bad vision of a really crudded up engine right now.
I've heard horror stories of guys with nastied engines putting in synthetic then having the same probs. All the **** breaks loose all at once and drops into the pan.

Once you've got it cleaned up, the synthetic will keep it cleanbut you gotta get there first.

 

i live in south florida so that out of the question. i gota gage today from my work, damn idiots told me they didnt have it. but this guage is a 0-100 psi OIL PRESSURE GAGE. just what i need! so im gonna try and figure out how to connect that. and i guess im just gonna keep doing oil changes every weekend with some seafoam in the oil until it gets fixed. it doesnt seem like a major problem where my engine is shot, but it seems like what you expect, a lot of crud/sludge just blocking stuff up and i guess slowly but surely its gonna come out with my oil changes and seafoam. in the end hopefully the engine will be clean and i wont have this problem anymore. and once again gone fishin, you have been a major major help on this. amd thank you to the rest for giving your time, would have never known what to do without you guys!

 

well today on ym drivehome, i saw this bad *** 2500 ram and i followed him since he pulled into my neighborhood and we started talking and he actually worked at the dealership i go to and he works in service. and just for the hell of it i asked him about my problem. he agreed that it sounded like a sludge build up, but he said once its in there its pretty much in there and the oil changes are going to help all that much. he also said that it sounded like it was just built up in the heads and everything else, and once it gets in the pan and clogs the screen, the pump is gonna go. all in all his advice was pretty much drive it or get rid of it. just wanted to see what you guys had to say