im not too sure what the new amps are out i just bought the subs and box i had the amp and capasitor from my old tahoe. but i have a 500watt 2 channel amp for 2 10" memphis subs and thats plenty of power for them. and alpine head units are awsome i had one in my tahoe and loved it

 

my brother in law has a whole rockford setup in his frontier with an alpine headunit. its loud and has tons of bass out of the 2 10 inch p3's. and the power components in the front with a 400watt 4 channel amp and a 500 2 channel amp. with a tsunami cap its sounds awesome. headunit is model 9887.

 

Go to crutchfield.com and then go to Outfit my car, answer the few ?'s and it will tell you what speakerandwhat sizes goin the vehicle. It will also give you some suggestions, then go on ebay or ebayexpress.com(all new products) then purchase what crutchfield and otherssuggest. Usually I will go w/ a kicker component set for the front and replace all the rest of the stock speakers w/ aftermarket Kicker speakers, buy a kicker 350-500 watt 4 channel amp for the aftermarket replacement speakers, then all you need is the sub and amp, I would suggest 2 L7 10" 0r 12" solo-barics if not that then 1 L7 15" solo. it will run you about $500-$800 new but they sound great, right amount of highs and lows.

 

I think u should know this about sub-woofers. When u go to purchase what ever subs u decide on, instead of looking at the max. watts of the sub, u need to look at the RMS.watts don't really matter unless ur going to enter inaudio compititions.
at least talk to who ever u purchase from. [8D][8D]

 

I'm an Alpine man myself too but Eclipse also makes nice head units. For subs I'm more of a fan of Infinity or Kicker.

I have a Alpine h/u, Alpine 4 channel amp to power the speakers, Alpine single channel amp for the sub, Polk db components up front, Polk DB coaxials in rear, and 2 12" Infinity subs. I've been happy with both Polk and Alpine speakers.

I'm just not a fan of JL stuff. I've only heard one JL setup that impressed me and most of the others to me didn't sound as good as the setup I have with Infinitys and they cost a ton more. I think with JL while it's decent stuff a lot of what you are paying for seems to be the name.

 

You have to remeber that no matter what sub you get it will never sound like its fully potention in a both under the back seats. The more air you give subs the better and louder it is. I have a alpine type-r in a huge ported box that replaced my little back seat and I can honeslty say that its is so loud. It literally makes the skin on your hands tingle no joke. Its also hard to breathe. I have it setup to were the sub and amp have a switch so I can turn the amp off and pull the sub is I have to. I also just got a 5 channel 1000w amp for my speakers with alpine type r 6x9's and 5 1/4's. the alpines are the best fitting speakers bar none. So i'd say go all alpine but beware of the alpine type e's they suck. Also do the big three which means run 0awg wire from the battery to altenator. altenator to chassis and negative battery to cab. oh and remember you don't need the best head unit, those are for show if you have preamps for the subs, front speakers, and rear speakers that all you need to sound good. Sound quality comes from your amps and speakers or if you want to get crazy put components in the front. Don't get me wrong systems can get complicated but they are real easy to install once you know everything. But like I said the bigger the portedbox the louder so cram the biggest box you can that fits your needs.

 

I'm going to give you a quick explanation of how power is referenced as it pertains to stereo equipment. There are 3 ways that the companies will list power. They are peak to peak, peak and RMS (Root Mean Square, google it). If an sub is listed as 100W, it usually means peak to peak. So that would be a 50W peak and 35W (roughly) RMS. If you buy a 100W sub (peak to peak) and an amp that's 100W (peak), you're going to blow the sub. Every company does things a little differently, but a lot of them will use the peak to peak value, because it's the largest number and it looks better. 200W peak to peak would equal 100W peak and 70.7W RMS. Peak is half of peak to peak and RMS is 0.707 times peak.

 

here is pics of mine http://s324.photobucket.com/albums/k...ildg04/Stereo/

 

heres my setup with a sony head unit, alpine type r 6x9's, alpine 500rms mono amp. kicker 750.5 rms amp. alpine type r, sony rear speakers. stock infinity dash speakers for now.





I am upgrading to a alpine headunit, alpine type r's 5 1/4's in the rear doors, and alpine tweeters. Maybe a 8" kicker cvr sub in a sealed box under the rear seatsfor when my big 12" is taken out for passengers.

 

Id' go with either alpine, pioneer, or eclipse for the head unit. don't cheap out on the head unit. If you buy some cheap POS sony or something else without a decent preout voltage and lacking in the equalizer and tuning options you will just be kicking yourself in the nuts hardcore. Look for something with high volt preouts 4volt or higher. as well as something with at least a three band parametric eq or more or a 7 band graphic type. My fav head unit is the pioneer 6000, or the eclipse 7200. Alpine is decent but the lack of a USB port on even the 500 dollar head units errks me.

for door speakers. I'm a big JL,POLK,JBL fan as well as eclipse. fosgate is OK but personally bigger fan of their amps rather than speakers. Alpine makes a great speaker as well. If you go POLK go with the MOMO or SR series the DB stuff sux. There are others but these are my favorites. I plan to run JL Zr's in my truck when the time comes. MB QUART is another one but they recently were bought by a new company so i'm a bit leary of them.

For amps my big companies are JL, ALPINE, FOSGATE, JBL, Eclipse's newer amps are nice. MEMPHIS audio makes some nice stuff as well. MTX higher up amps are actually starting to impress me as well. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS pay attention to RMS i'll say it again RMS power output ratings. Peak power is a freaking stupid *** number that has no meaning whatsoever when designing a system. I can say peak is whatever on anything because technically peak is something that is the maximum. You know how companies like sony rate their amps... they give them a **** ton of current and voltage input that cooks the amp but for the maybe ten milliseconds it lives it spews out 1200 watts of power. woohoo that's peak. see why it is pointless. ANY ANY ANY company that makes amps and is worth your time will be a CEA compliant company. CEA is a set standard of testing conditions and labeling so taht you know what your amp does when you buy it. this means being tested at 14.4V and RMS output being measured. there is only one company i trust that is not CEA rated and that is JL audio. they rate their amps at 12v and their reasoning is that no ones electrical system can hold a constant 14.4v so they feel 12v is a much more realistic number.

Subs I'm a big fan of JL, Alpine, eclipse, MTX thunder series, Fosgate is awesome, memphis, resonant engineering, JBL, FI. all great subs. I was a big fan of KICKER for awhile but i'm gonna be honest. thier stuff is slipping downhill. it's being outsourced and such and it really doesn't impress me at all. their subs sound quality is poor and SPL output isn't that great either. so i'm very leary of kicker atm.

that's my opinion and also so that you understand you're not gonna be able to jam the biggest Mfing sub in that truck. match the sub to the box you can use in the vehicle accordingly. I'm tired of seeing people put big subs in tiny azz boxes and ask why it doesn't sound good.... in these trucks usually the biggest you can go is 400 w rms subs mebbe two of them if you want to retain the back seats. any larger and you will be starving a sub of that size for air.