Going to clean throttle body..
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I used barke cleaner just last week to do this.
I've had no problems and the truck is more responsive and definately runs a lot smoother.
You must, when cleaning the TB, make SURE you don't let any of the spray run into the electronics at the top of it.
This could potentially fatally damage the TB so, BEWARE !!!
What I did was, soak a lint free cloth in the cleaner and rub away at the crap inside.
If the solvent is on the rag, it's a lot more controllable than just spraying it around.
I also used a soft tooth brush to clean away the deposits and it worked very well.
I also took the time to clean all the air box/Hemi hat and as far as I could reach into the inlet manifold. I also cleaned and re-charged my K&N drop in.
Make SURE, that when you do inside the manifold, nothing drops in and there and there's no pooled solvent deposits to explode, when you restart the truck.
It's also a great time to replace the PCV valve as well while your at it.
This can also cause rough idle etc.
When you button everything back up, because you have moved the TB blade, you need to tell the controller the TB blades position.
I calibrated mine, by switching just the ignition to on and waiting for the dings to stop etc.
Don't kick over the truck to start it and then I slowly, over 1 second per cycle, pressed the accelerator pedal fully open and then closed.
Do this 5 times whilst still in the ignition on position and your TB is then apparantly calibrated, so you get wide open throttle.
Hope this helps?
Al.
I've had no problems and the truck is more responsive and definately runs a lot smoother.
You must, when cleaning the TB, make SURE you don't let any of the spray run into the electronics at the top of it.
This could potentially fatally damage the TB so, BEWARE !!!
What I did was, soak a lint free cloth in the cleaner and rub away at the crap inside.
If the solvent is on the rag, it's a lot more controllable than just spraying it around.
I also used a soft tooth brush to clean away the deposits and it worked very well.
I also took the time to clean all the air box/Hemi hat and as far as I could reach into the inlet manifold. I also cleaned and re-charged my K&N drop in.
Make SURE, that when you do inside the manifold, nothing drops in and there and there's no pooled solvent deposits to explode, when you restart the truck.
It's also a great time to replace the PCV valve as well while your at it.
This can also cause rough idle etc.
When you button everything back up, because you have moved the TB blade, you need to tell the controller the TB blades position.
I calibrated mine, by switching just the ignition to on and waiting for the dings to stop etc.
Don't kick over the truck to start it and then I slowly, over 1 second per cycle, pressed the accelerator pedal fully open and then closed.
Do this 5 times whilst still in the ignition on position and your TB is then apparantly calibrated, so you get wide open throttle.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Last edited by abarmby; 08-13-2008 at 06:45 AM.
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Beware of people who 'parot' what they read on internet forums yet who have not tested anything themselves for jack.
Bernd and several members of the Dakota Mailing List (DML)
at a group dyno day did a good series of tests on throttle body spacers
on 3.9/5.2/5.9 Magnum V8s
years ago that showed no gain at all for spacers on the HUGE 'beer barrel' intake.
That is the 'true source' of the repetition you read
about throttle body spacers being 'paper weights.
But the 5.7/6.1 Hemi V8 designs are very different
than the 3.9/5.2/5.9 V8 designs.
I know of no modern dyno tests on 5.7/6.1 Hemi V8s
but it is possible at other websites like
LX F orums M ods F ace O ff webpages
http://tinyurl.com/64po5m
that throttle body spacers have been dyno tested in an accurate way
but I don't remember seeing it.
The one bit of reliable information on a spacer test that I do remember
is where the very knowledgeable engine builder and writer
Steve Dulcich
put this picture in an article
and said that volume at the throttle body
did shift the torque curve of the 5.7 Hemi V8:
![](http://images.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mops_050057_dyno_07_z.jpg)
Steve Dulcich's caption
"Our pal, Richard Holdener, dropped by and took us to school on the effect of ram tuning the induction tract forward of the throttle body. This is essentially the air-intake system. Holdener got to work adding a shnoz to our intake to demonstrate the effect of air intake ram pipes."
full article
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...kes/index.html
Since your spacer is already installed
test it using the video feature of your cell phone
to take a movie of how your speedo moves durning full throttle acceleration
using this online 'interactive highway dyno'
that is actually more accurate than a rear wheel dyno you have to pay for:
http://www.bgsoflex.com/dyno.html