went and bought new napa slotted/drilled rotors and premium pads. hopefully they will not warp as fast.have to see.

so what is your rotor break in method? i wanted to try and do it right this time to see if they last a little longer.

 

You need to burnish the rotors. I burnish mine by doing ten (10) 40 mph gentle stops, then drive for a little while longer to let the rotors cool down. I have almost 90k miles on my original rotors and brakes right now, with no warping. I have to wonder sometimes if the warping isn't caused by the stop and go of traffic and an automatic transmission that requires you to remain on the brakes at a stop, allowing one section of the rotor to remain hot, while the area not covered by the pads cools off------just a guess. I usually don't leave the brakes applied on mine at stops as I have a stick, Either way, they still shouldn't warp. MOst of the vehicles out there have automatics, and rarely have a case of warped rotors. I guess Chrysly had to find another way to cut costs and pass the problems of cheap materials on to the customer. When I do have to change rotors, it will definitely be Power Slots front and rear, with ceramic pads.

 

Aren't the 2500 brakes totally different than the 1500's?

 

anyone else want to chime in with there method?

 

Gone Fishin is bang on.
Never, after say a long brake downhill or a prolonged pullup, leave your foot on the brakes.
This does indeed leave the pads in contact with the rotors and due to the extreme hot temps, material is passed from the pad and depostited onto the rotor surface.
The new modern pads have gone a long way top stop this. But inferior quality pads still have this problem.
These depostits build up and are impossible to remove from the rotor causing the "warped" symtoms most people wrongly describe.
Look at this web site for info on brake in and rotor warp.

http://www.centricparts.com/techsupport.htm

Hope this helps?
AL.

 

30 stops from 30 miles per hour with about 30 seconds between stops to allow the rotors to cool. If you have to stop after a hard braking after that, kick the truck into neutral so that the hot pads aren't clamped down on one part of the rotor.

 

abarmby....nice read.thanks.

went and picked them up today.got 2 cans of break cleaner and some red caliper paint.hopefully get them installed this weekend.

 

got them installed today. broke them in just like gone fishin said. hopefully they wont warp as fast.

they stop better than the old stock setup.not a bunch but better.my old pads were only about half gone and had cracks all through them.

i love new rotors.stopping is very smooth with no vibrations from warpage.and if everything goes good with the fronts,i will be doing the rears too.