Course, I just went to Randy's Ring & Pinion to check out some prices, and in the description for the Powertrax it says "These units are not recommended for applications with high horsepower or large tires." Guess that explains why they might be bad for bigger trucks. My Ranger was only running 33"s and only put out around 160HP.

 

I finally got things worked out with 94rt10ohio, and can post my directions for my DIY install of a Powertrax unit. Was not too hard, but did take me a few hours. After running with it for 8 months, I will say it does take a little getting used to, as it requires some friction to unlock the drive wheels when you take a corner. And sometimes in winter, it won't unlock, so I ended up steering with the throttle to get around a few corners.
Well, this is rather irritating. I still can't attach the file. It's only 820k.

 

Dog, with you're driving habits definitely stick with a LSD, lockers are in realm of hard core "off road" traction and wouldn't be smooth on the street. From reading on here and my own research the trutrac wormgear LSD and the auburn clutch LSD are both good units. And definitely check out Randy's ring and pinion, there's some good info on that site.

Off road=dirt, mud and SCRATCHES!

 

Do not know what to tell you, here is a PDF.... (off topic)

 

Grrr. Still getting the same message: Powertrax LockRite Install.pdf:
Exceeds your quota by 712.4 KB. Click here to view your attachments

Maybe I don't have enough posts to be worthy of more attachment size?

Well, maybe I can just paste the text for now.
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Powertrax Lock-Rite locker installation and differential fluid change on 3rd Gen (2007) Ram 1500 with a 9.25 rear axle (not factory LSD).
This is what I did to change the rear differential oil, and install my Lock-rite locker. There are many ways to skin a cat, but this worked for me, and I hope you find it useful. It took me about six hours, not counting my breakfast/honey-do stop/ a trip to work, and a trip to Autozone, to complete this…
I apologize in advance as I used my smartphone to take the pictures, so some aren’t superb. It can be a challenge to hold a flashlight while snapping a picture. That said, let’s get to it.
What you will need before you begin:
13mm, 21mm, 8mm sockets and/or wrenches, maybe some extensions
Factory lugnut tool or 20mm socket w/breaker bar
A double layer piece of 3ft x 3ft cardboard (to lay on)
Plastic or wood scraper (I used a paint stir stick)
Flashlight
Torque wrench
Small (1/8” blade) screwdriver
Oil drain pan (at least 5qt capacity)
Lock-tite (blue)
1 tube Red RTV
2.1 (okay 3) qts of differential oil
1 tub or tube of differential grease
Some rubber/vinyl/or other gloves
1 pair of jack stands, 1 floor jack
Piece of Scotch-brite
Powertrax install overview (helpful)
Dodge manual for tearing open the rear end!
Your Powertrax Lock-rite! 
Set the oil drain pan under the differential before you begin. Use the 13mm socket and begin removing the bolts from the differential cover. I started at the bottom, and removed all but the top 2—I just loosened them at first. I didn’t remove the spare tire, but that would make for a little more working room… There is enough room to remove the top 2 bolts with a 13mm deep socket, but by the time I got to them oil was already dripping from the differential. (Now stop for two hours, eat breakfast, and do some honey-dos). I let the cover sit on the drain pan for a while so the oil would run off before I cleaned it. (There is a little white paint streak next to the 8mm bolt above, and the steel shaft is to the left of that.)
Block the front wheels. You don’t want the truck rolling after you take the rear wheels off. You will have to move the axles out a bit in order to get the side gears and spider gears out, so bust the lug nuts loose on both rear wheels (just loose!) , then jack up the right side and put a jack stand in, so you can rotate the gears in the differential. Turn the wheel so you can see the 8mm bolt that keeps the steel shaft in place in the carrier. Remove the bolt (clean, inspect and set aside. You will reuse it). I used a 7/16” bolt and a hammer to gently tap the shaft out about 3/8”, and then turned the right wheel so the carrier would turn over so I could pull the shaft out.
(Bolt and shaft removed) Once you remove the shaft, be careful, just a little turn of the carrier will allow the spider gears to drop out. Clean, inspect, and set the steel shaft aside—you will reuse it (if it is damaged, I’d replace it). Now jack the left side of the rear axle and stick your jack stand in place.
Remove the other rear wheel. (don’t be shocked at how dirty the back sides are)
You should now be able to remove the C-clips. You will have to remove the little rotor retaining washers from each hub, and then push the axles in a bit. The C-clips should fall right out (mine did—one is sitting in the bottom of the gear housing on the left. Both are in the drain pan on the right). Inspect them, clean them, and set aside—you will reuse them (if they are trashed, I’d get new ones…). I also removed the right (only the right one) brake caliper and rotor, so I could later push the right axle out
about 3” to aid the install (later). Be sure you support the brake caliper on something to keep from damaging the rubber brake line! When you push/pull the right axle, the side gear should drop off the shaft. Remove the left side gear. Check to make sure you have the thrust washers (wide thin washers--below), as there should have been one for each side gear. They might be stuck to the gear, or stuck to the side of the carrier (I had one of each!). Clean these and inspect them (per Richmond’s instructions, they need to be pristine), so you can reuse them with the Powertrax couplers.
I used an old toothbrush and coated all the Powertrax pieces, and the thrust washers with a thin coat of gear grease. This helps some pieces still in place while you assemble, and gives the unit some lubrication until the oil gets moving inside the rear end. (Below is a picture of the Left coupler installed in carrier.)
Install the thrust washer and one of the couplers (they have the splines to match the axle) on the ring gear side (the left on my truck). Re-Install the left C-clip (you did put some grease on it, yes?). I pulled the left axle out (it only moved maybe a ¼”) after I put the C-clip on, so the tension would keep it in place. Install the remaining coupler (don’t install the C-clip yet). You will probably need to push the (right) axle in a bit to keep the spacer in place on the axle shaft. (below is a picture after installing the second coupler)
Rockwell’s instructions say to insert the springs and pins into the drivers now, but when I did this, I couldn’t get the second driver into the carrier. (see picture below) So, I pulled it back out…
What I did then was insert the pins into the deep holes (they have long side openings) where you see the springs above, and then inserted the left driver first (ring gear side—as above), with one of the spacers inside it. You can see the spacer inside the driver if you look closely at the picture above. I put the grooved side of the spacer toward the C-clip. Now install the right (remaining) driver, with the pins in the deep holes, and the remaining spacer.
As you install the right driver, line up the holes the pins are in, with the shorter holes in the opposite driver. Next, use your small screwdriver and push the pins across into the shallow holes in the opposite driver. This was a little difficult, as I had greased the pins, and they had some good sticking power at the bottom of those holes! (below I am in the middle of pushing the pair of springs into one of the long holes)
There are 8 springs. Insert a small one side the larger one, dab a little grease on it, and then push a pair into the hole with the long opening. I was able to push them in with my fingers. You might need a small tool in order to get them fully seated.
Rotate the axle (I had to temp reinstall a wheel, because I just couldn’t spin it without), so you can install the remaining 3 sets of springs. Rockwell’s install overview now says to use the go/no-go block, but there wasn’t one with mylocker…so I skipped that step.
Next, install the remaining blue C-clip. There is a small gap you can insert a screwdriver into and wedge the C-clip into. You’ll need to push the (right) axle back in (if you didn’t already) so you can get the (blue) C-clip to seat on the groove. This took a couple of tries for me to get it lined up. I used my paint stick to shove the (blue) C-clip all the way in (below).
Now you’ll need to reinsert the steel shaft. NOTE: when you rotate the wheel, the axles move in or out, depending on rotation direction, so you will likely need to push/pull them back out so the steel shaft will slide all the way into the carrier. Be sure to line up the hole for the 8mm bolt! Now reinstall the 8mm bolt (I think the torque is 10in-lbs, but don’t quote me). I used a dab of Lock-tite on mine. To test it, I jammed a brick between the left rear tire and the ground, and then turned the right rear tire.
This is in the install overview (I can’t even remember which direction I spun it). You should be able to hear the clicking/ratcheting sound as the right tire rotates.
If you’ve not done so, clean the mating surfaces of the cover and the differential case. I used a paint stir stick and some Scotch-brite. (directly above, you’ll notice the mating surface of the housing is nice and clean, compared to the first pictures!) Put some plastic covering (or newspaper or something) over the gears and carrier so you don’t get RTV scraps all over the inside of the differential case. Don’t be surprised how this stuff migrates to any surface you touch! Once that’s clean and you are ready to reinstall, put a bead of RTV around the pan. I circled each bolt hole, and did a double line across the bottom portion of the pan (because I like to worry). Just follow the guidance on the RTV tube… Now you can put the wheels and right brake back on. I took this time to scuff my rear calipers and paint them (why not?). Brake caliper mount bolts are 100 ft-lbs of torque, and the wheel lugs were 135 ft-lbs (I think)!
I waited overnight for my RTV to cure, and then serviced the rear end with some AMSOIL gear oil. This was an entertaining chore, as it required me to hold a small funnel, attached to a small hose, above my head, while I poured the oil into the funnel (without spilling it on my face). I ended up rigging one of my jack stands and the spare tire to hold the funnel, while I used a mirror to watch the oil level in the funnel as I poured.
And that was it! Time for a road test…

 

That's only if you have an open diff. You can't use them on lsd's as it does state. Nice cut/paste.

 

Did you find out anymore on the difficulty of replacing the stock LSD? I put 4.56 in and left the stock LSD, I would like to eventually switch this out.

 

Powertrax offers one for the factory Dodge LSD, if I remember correctly.

 

I had a True Trac installed in my truck when the factory unit thru a "C" clip. I have several thousand miles on it. I think it's great. It seems to take abuse pretty well to. I also had the gears re-done, but when I was talking to the mechanic he pretty much told me that it essentially was a simply a remove and re-install if I'd kept the stock ring and pinion.

 

If anyone is interested in the Powertrax pdf file, just PM me and I can email it to you.... Pictures are from my cellphone, but you can get the jist of what's going on...