I wanted to install a Detroit TrueTrac locker and get rid of the notorious exploding LSD. I have 3:92's and just want to keep them. i don't wanna switch them out because then I'll have to do the front.
My question is this: has anyone kept their gear ratio and installed just the locker in the back, preferably a Detroit unit? I wanted to know how close the Detroit unit is as far as specs compared to the stock LSD. It would help immensley if I didn't have to take the pinion out and can simply adjust for the backlash and not the depth. I suppose I'm being lazy. I just hate to get on my back in my garage to do so. I tore apart my Mustang diff 3 times in the past 2 years, 1st for new gears, then I put in numerically higher gears and swapped out the carrier, then I put in diff axles.

It would be nice to just "throw" in...lol...a TrueTrac unit and be done with it. I suppose that's a term I can loosely throw around since it's not that big of a deal for me...hehehehe

 

I know a few who've done just that. Replaced the factory LSD with a TruTrac (but technically it's a LSD 'dog) or Auburn Gear.

I'm assuming it's as simple as you think, and even though I have no experience with it, this is why I would think so.

The shop, a hunting buddies step-father's Tire & Auto Store in Ga., where I know two guys who have had it done (one with a TruTrac, one with an Auburn) did the job for them. I know for a fact that this shop farms out diff work.

(Incidently, this is the place this guy & I installed my suspension lift. It's great to have a buddy with access to a shop with lifts & air tools who has keys on a Sunday when they are closed )

So, I can only assume that if you had to remove the diff to set the LSD and re-set it, they would have had the shop that does there diff work do the LSD installs.

Since they, in fact, did not, I can be pretty sure that you would not have to remove & re-set the ring & pinion for your LSD install.
Like I said, I've not done it, so you may want to check into it further, but I think my logic here is pretty sound.

I'll be up there this weekend, I don't plan on hunting with this guy specifically, but I always see him (and usually do some drunken ATV riding with him). I can ask if you are not in a big hurry.

 

I been wondering this myself, maybe make a saturday morning special out of it, I have also been wondering, if it is just the C-clips going bad, why cant we just replace them every 30k miles or so. that way they get fresh parts and fluid, would that solve the problem?

 

I just don't wanna tear into the pinion gear is all. Then I would have to re-use the crush collar and beat up the bearings.....aaaahahhhhhh


Anyways, anyone check this out? It replaces everything inside the LSD carrier as most actually don't. It's suppose to be much quieter than the conventional locker units. Although it's no Truetrac! http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/no-slip/review/

 

Stay away from the Powertraxx!!! Every forum I'm on/have been on has horror stories from people who got one and had nothing but problems. Do a search, I can't remember if it's this site or not, but I read a thread from one guy who went through three of them in a short period of time...

 

Yeah, you have to take the carrier assembly out to install it so I'm no longer interested in that!....lol

I also read that the Detroit unit is wider which can be ground down for the driveway do'er since I don't have a case spreader

 

I want to do the same thing...just drop a Tru-Trac into my stock rear. And for the same reasons, though I found some info that indicated the grenading diffs was far less on the '06 and later models (suspect this could be they haven't been driven as far, yet). Even so, the Tru Trac wouldn't be prohibitively expensive, and good insurance. I noticed Hammer had mentioned in earlier post using 4wheel parts...there's one of them about 160 miles away, thought I might give them a call.

 

I have a DTT installed and have over 3000 miles on it now.
No problems running it with the stock 3:55's.
I couldn't afford to do the 4:56's here in the UK front and rear, but got rid of the crappy stock LSD pronto.
I have no problems and the unit performs flawlessly and smooth.
Al.

 

The TruTrac is a step up from the factory LSD, but it's still a LSD. If you're going to go to the trouble of opening the rear end, might as well get a good locker. Electric, magnetic, air, and cable operated all have good driving characteristics for a daily driver.

Like hammer said, stay away from the "lunchbox lockers". They are crap on the street. I had PowerTrax LockRights in the front and rear of my Jeep. They were great offroad, but horrible on the street. Every corner I would go around, the rear would lock and start popping and bucking. On wet roads it was down right scary. When trying to take a corner at an intersection on wet roads, the rear would lock, and start walking around on me. I can't count how many times I ended up sideways in the middle of a busy intersection when it was wet outside.

One night on the way home from work, I was driving around a corner. The rear end locked up, and started jumping and bucking like it regularly would. I got pissed and stood on the gas peddle. Next thing I here: "Snap, Crackle, Pop, Bang". I had to put it in 4x4 and limp home in front wheel drive. The locker blew a couple of shear pins, took a couple of teeth of the locker, and gouged up the ring gear pretty good. Lunchbox lockers suck on daily drivers.

As far as installation goes: Open your diff, measure runout, remove carrier, remove ring gear, measure original shimming, add ring gear to the new locker, and set everything back up to original specs.

Lucas

 

I had a Powertrax No-Slip on my Ford Ranger 4x4, 4.0 V6 and never had any problems with it. I had it for about 2 years. Occasionally it would stay locked going thru a turn if you kept on the throttle, you just had to learn how to drive with it. And every once in a while it would "pop" as the gears re-synchronized, but I inspected it a few times and never saw any damage or issues.

Also, with the Powertrax on my Ranger, I did not have to reset the ring & pinion. Just pulled the c-clips for the axles, slid the shafts back enough to remove the spider gears, then installed the Powertrax. Not sure what the install directions are for the Dodge.