This might sound like a stupid question, but it is on changing the sparkplugs...

I am experienced at mechanical work, but somethings jobs have gotcha...

like changing the plugs on my BMW R1150R motorcycle, pull coil pack with special tool, remove spark plug, again with BMW special tool (only available at dealer for obscene amount of money).

The plugs on the v-6 look easy to get to, straight up and down, just pull coil pack, remove plug with long extension. So do we need a handful of special tools for this job or will a 10mm wrench for the coil pack (and I assume there is enough slack in the wire to get it out) and a 5/8" plug socket with a extension, plus the antisieze for the threads, dielectric grease for the caps, torque wrench to get the 20 ft-lbs for torque right and all that good stuff.

Oh, the truck just hit 30k miles, so I am following the book recommended maintenance.

Howard

 

No special tools needed what I read don't use Platnuim pulgs in these trucks they don't like them use the stock type Coppers or the Iridium Plugs.

I put Irdirum in mine it's saids the Iridium let's the truck starts quiker and last longer than the stock coppers the NGK Iridium cost $6.00 each the other brands are like $10.00+ each.

 

I just did mine and replaced them with the ngk iridiums and immediately felt a difference. I'm only at 22k miles, but the originals were clearly worn when I pulled them. No special tools are needed, and from your post it sounds like you have everything. The coil packs just need to be unplugged from the harness and then loosen the nut and pull them on out. Make sure you check your gaps and set them to what the manufacturer recommends.

 

Yeah, that sounds about right. I've had to do it so many times, ha! The hardest part for sure is getting to the very back cylinders. What a pain. But it's def not hard. I'm not a mechanic and I still manage. Just be sure not to lose the little nuts on the top of the coil pack! They are small and impossible to find. Good luck!

 

i have a diy on this...

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/diy-do-...ricksmash.html

check it out. pretty simple.

i'm also using ngk iridiums. ngk's are stock, but the iridium was just something i decided to go with. don't get those stupid platinum +4. gimmick =) ask any electrician what their thoughts are on the concept ...an electrician who knows NOTHING about cars will tell you why they're dumb. (OMGlookWOW 4 prongs 4 sparks ! WOOT!!!!)

 

thanks...I always like to ask about new jobs that look easy but can turn into a major problem. I will get to them this weekend, if the weather permits.

Howard

 

it's always nice doing something yourself =)

also, if u looked through my detailed diy, don't forget that if u get a check engine light, disconnect the battery for a few min (smoke a cigarette in the mean time), re-attach and check engine light should clear.

 

Hey derrick I noticed in your guide you set the gap at .40 as the emissions label states. I went with .44 as ngk, advance auto, and napa's sites state as the gap for the iridiums. I'm not sure if it makes any difference as I have read that you can vary the gap up to .08 from the factory setting to account for forced air induction and other performance mods.

 

interesting. i'll try it when i change these plugs...i ain't going back in there to re-gap. at this point, they're probably shot to about there anyways =)

i really should though...i'm about to put on my jet chip, and put my new intake on (which means taking off resonator, which means that the plugs will be right there =)

 

Yea some of those plugs are a pain to get to, plus having to take off the resonator, but like you said you are gonna be in there anyway. One thing I did notice on the old ngk's I pulled out is that they were so badly worn that the gap was like .50. What kind of intake did you get?