Hello all,
I am a newbie around here. I have been having some issues with my pickup. I am just looking for a little input. I will list it out so there isn't so much reading.
Keep in mind: I live in Michigan so it has been very cold lately.

1)no oil pressure on gauge when cold, after 14-20 sec oil pressure registers.
2)dealer replaced sending unit
3)sent truck back 2 weeks later
4) they have had my truck for a week, they thought is was the cluster
5)found out that the truck truly does not have oil pressure when gauge shows zero, but oil pressure kicks in after 14-20 seconds..

Plan A: Fresh oil change
Plan B: replace valve in oil pump

Has anyone had this happen to them? what was the turn out?


Thanks,
Allison

 

Somebody once said that their PCV valve froze in very cold weather and caused oil pressure problems...
I cant believe the stealer cant fix the problem!
Hopefully dirtydog, nick or hammer will chime in lol, there the experts.

Maybe try a 5w 30 synthetic or a 0-30 synthetic if it gets that cold...

 

Well, it is partly my doing (why they have had it for so long)... They wanted to send me off last week. (I told them I wanted it in writing that my truck was sound and was not going to blow up on me. It was running fine, but I hate playing games with the dealer) So after that they decided to go through my truck (go figure), after that was when they found that is wasn't actually getting any oil pressure, before they thought it was just electrical. Plus it is still under warranty. The dealer hasn't gotten back with me.. It's is so crappy to be without my truck for a whole week!

Plus it is still under warranty.

 

I would ventrue to guess that its a bad oil pump. Those aren't easy to replace, However, It should be covered.

 

My truck does the same thing in cold weather, but when warms up, is fine. I have never worried about it.

 

some more details on the truck please.

miles, service history (have the oil changes been done on time?), type of oil

first thing i would do is tell them to stop running it without oil pressure. If they need to check it, turn it on for no more than 3-5 seconds, it should have pressure by then.

The 4.7 has an issue with sludge. It's possible some has formed and is blocking the screen in the oil pan until the pressure behind it eventually builds up enough to break through the sludge. If this is the case, they will find it immidietely if they drop the pan. JUST DOING AN OIL CHANGE MAY NOT FIND THIS ISSUE.

 

A little more info for you,

My truck just rolled over 50,000 miles. All of the oil changes have been done by my husband. I believe he changes the oil around 2500 to 3000 miles. We use car quest oil and filters (I think 10w30). Tranny flushes have been done at the dealer.

I have never had any issues with the truck. All I have ever had to do is normal service. I still have not heard back from the dealer...

What is worse is that I found out the dealership I bought the truck from neglected to transfer the 7/70 into my name at purchase 2 years ago. When she looked the truck up yesterday in the computer it did not show any warranty. Needless to say, I am now pissed and on a head hunt. I do not know why the original dealer didn't do the transfer.
I am getting so frustrated.

 

I think they charge to transfer the warranty, and it has to be done in the first few months of ownership. If that warranty is not in your name already, you might be SOL

 

Sorry Alli, just noticed the thread, I'm that Hammer guy they mentioned, 'sposed to know my a$$ from a hole in the ground, I guess.

Sending unit, YOU ABSOLUTELY SURE THEY REPLACED IT? wouldn't be the first time a dealership said they did something and didn't, specially for warranty work.

This is a classic 4.7 sludge issue, you'd think if they dropped the pan to get to the sending unit, they'd have completely cleaned everything out.

They need to drop the pan, clean everything out. Then put it all back together and Seafoam the hell out of it to get everything up top down into the pan. Then drop the pan again and clean it out.

A good synthetic after that, I like Royal Purple, and a better filter like Wix or Purolator and change it after about 1500 miles, inspect. If it looks bad, do the seafoam again, if not, put in RP and you should be good to go.

The 4.7 will last damn near forever if you just do two things. Keep sludge from preventing oil from flowing properly and change the anti-freeze twice as often as recommended, another 4.7 flaw, the lines in the engine are too close to the cylinder walls, corrosive anti-freeze will eat through and bye-bye engine...

I actually just read through the responses after typing the above, I believe 'feejay was right on the ball on this yesterday...

 

Apologize for the jacked thread...
Hammer, you said change your coolant twice then what the manufactorer suggests. Thats 50k from what I read on my manual. I had a bad water pump that was changed at 60k and they put all new coolant in. I am guessing they put in full antifreeze and no water when filling it all back up. Could this do more damage then what they said. Told me "it will be fine." I have read to much antifreeze in an aluminum engine corrodes or eats away at it. Also my temp guage moves alot and doesnt stay steady like it used to before they changed it and added all this coolant. Im thinking I have an 80/20 mix... The truck sits like 5-6 days a weeks and only gets operated on sundays when I open her up just to run her on the interstate as fast as I can get her. Any thoughts on this coolant issue would help.