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problem with hella

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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by RubberFrog
Do NOT bypass the relay and run all that power through your switch. You're just waiting for an electrical fire. They included it for a reason, so don't be one of those guys that has to learn everything the hard way. The switch isn't made to handle the current draw of the lights for any significant amount of time. It will eventually fail and they are known to catch fire when that happens.


Here is a schematic of how to wire a four post relay. It's easy.
LOL...........You beat me to it. I was going to post the same. If anyone even needs to know how a relay works or diagrams then you can also look at find some over on www.the12volt.com
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
LOL...........You beat me to it. I was going to post the same. If anyone even needs to know how a relay works or diagrams then you can also look at find some over on www.the12volt.com
That's an informative site you posted up.

If I had to guess I would say that the ground on the switch is bad.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Yesh, it's a ground problem. i just grounded each light to the metal hardware brackets that come with the lights since they were bolted right to the frame. I too ran the lights directly to the battery however, the toggle switch that comes with them are only rated for a max of 10 amps. Running directly you need atleast a 15amp but I prefer a 20amp. It looks like you've already upgraded the switch so i think you'll be fine. Generally the switch only carries the "remote" on/off wire and has no major power running through it.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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i upgraded the switch so i think im good...also they are not on all the time
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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You've got a lot of confidence in a switch made in china... but it's your truck and sometimes you just gotta learn the hard way. I wonder why Hella doesn't just give us a bigger switch?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberFrog
You've got a lot of confidence in a switch made in china... but it's your truck and sometimes you just gotta learn the hard way. I wonder why Hella doesn't just give us a bigger switch?
Say somebody wanted to run his hot lead for the light directly to the battery. How would he make this safe? If he upgraded to switch, that should enough right?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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That's the whole purpose of a relay. Instead of running power from the battery, to the switch, and back to the lights- you use the switch to trigger the relay which sends power from the battery to the lights. The relay requires a very small amount of juice to trigger, versus the heavy amp load of the lights. Check out the schematic I posted early.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 04:20 PM
  #18  
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I think the coils on those relays pull less than 200mA. The contacts hold the 30/40A depending on how you wire it.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #19  
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i'll see if I can get a better place for the ground teach. Hey silver where did you ground yours to? And thanks for the help guys
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberFrog
That's the whole purpose of a relay. Instead of running power from the battery, to the switch, and back to the lights- you use the switch to trigger the relay which sends power from the battery to the lights. The relay requires a very small amount of juice to trigger, versus the heavy amp load of the lights. Check out the schematic I posted early.

Yes, BUT, if you have a switch that is rated for the amperage, there's nothing wrong with that! Also, made in china...That is why i said get yourself atleast a 20amp versus 15amp for that extra little bit of protection and it will keep the switch cool as well because it can handle the extra power and is not trying to squeeze the power through.
 
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