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PVC intake DYI

Old Apr 15, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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Default PVC intake DYI

Alright I did it today. I went and bought 2 3 inch elbows and a 2 foot section of 3 inch pvc. I bought a cone filter and and a oil breather filter ans some zip ties
It was pretty easy to put together Me and a friend got it done in about an hour. The hardest part was drilling a new hole for the mass air sensor.
I used a engine resistant paint which did not bond to the pvc very well... but oh well. I would recommend krylon fusion instead.

I must say it sounds louder and has changed my exhaust note on my flow 40 as well. I like it =)

I will get some pics up in few hours
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Right on, cant wait to see pics.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Sorry the pic is kinda dark but its getting late and I used my blackberry cause I could'nt find my camera.

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let me know what you guys think. I used a metallic grey paint to try and sorta match my truck
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:26 PM
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Looks good.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Looks real good! I did that as well, but I have it positioned down a little further. I have a Jet Stream scoop which directs air right to it. Check it out....

 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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I like that rsjibb I may try and tilt mine down a bit i need to come up with a way to support it on the filter end of the pipe though. How did you stabilize yours?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Back in Apr 07, I completed eng mod #2: installed a 4" sewer pipe to replace the 2nd airbox and the acordian hose. Don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other forums and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
 
Attached Thumbnails PVC intake DYI-4.7lsewerpipe1sml.jpg   PVC intake DYI-4.7lsewerpipe5sml.jpg  
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:13 AM
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I will wait for the pics...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by davb673
Back in Apr 07, I completed eng mod #2: installed a 4" sewer pipe to replace the 2nd airbox and the acordian hose. Don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other forums and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
Big 4" tube is great, but it still has to go through the small T/B opening. So bigger isn't always better. It helps on the corners, but when you size up/down too much or too much at a time, that can be very restrictive and actually hinder flow. Steady size is better with only 1 reducer if you can help it and reduced at a small amunt.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Thanks dirtydog. I am going to swap it out for a piece of 3.5" mandrel bent steel pipe, which I think I won't need any reducer/expander pieces for. That should help things out a bit.
 
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