View Poll Results: Should I Get it or not???
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll
Used Parts....
Guess I better make a few calls and see what its gonna take to clean it up... I'll see about picking it up this weekend. Better see how much the install is gonna run or if we can get it done without going to a shop.
I haven't follow everything you have done with your truck, but I have ran high stall converters and one of the things you need to consider if it's still a street ride is what RPM do you cruise at on the highway. You will want the converter locked up at highway speeds otherwise driveability is seriously affected. My .02. You have a great ride, Have fun!!
Well the stall on this one is 2800, My cruising RMP on the highway right now (cruise control set to 70mph) is around 21-2200rpm. The next few mods will be a new cam, headers, custom tune and a few other things.
Also I pulled this from their webpage:
http://www.apsprecision.com/TQConverter.html
Also I pulled this from their webpage:
http://www.apsprecision.com/TQConverter.html
offers much closer tolerances than factory (very sloppy) and a 200rpm higher stall as well. With the closer tolerances, you get more power to the rear wheels which, in conjunction with the slightly higher stall, equates to quicker acceleration and faster ET's at the track. Again, we are the ONLY ones who offer this converter. The stators we use are all brand-new custom manufactured, not modified factory pieces. This brings the efficiency factory from the factory 82% to 93%. This can allow us to guarantee you a minimum 25-30 rear-wheel HP increase.
From what you are saying you have a 600 rpm gap to full lock-up. If you tow a trailer or are heavily loaded a spongyness will be felt if the converter is not locked. And it also has to be taken into account the heat that is being generated when the converter is slipping. With that said the website stated this conveter is only 200 rpm over stock and I wouldn't think that would be a problem for you running 4:56 gear. I'm not being negative but just passing on some of my own experiences. If I didn't tow anything I think I would go ahead and do it.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Yeah I dont tow, if anything I may pull a 12' utility trailer when help moving something but its never fully loaded and thats maybe a once a year thing. My truck is mainly a street truck with the occasional trip down a few dirt roads for camping/hunting/fishing trips.
Thats the way I'm looking at it as well. I've paid more for a tank of gas. I also wont be ditching my stock converter either just to be on the safe side, and Im sure if I brought it down somewhere to get cleaned up and checked out that if it wasn't safe to put on they would mention it.
Well here is the plan, Im going to pick up the converter tomorrow hopefully and then send it to APS to get it cleaned, have all the bearings replaced and basically make it as good as new, then when it comes back in I'll take it down to the guy thats doing my cam and we'll put it in.
Total price after all is said and done:
Converter: $60
Rebuild by APS: $85 (+ shipping)
Install: around $300
Total: $445
Price for a new converter: $450 + $37 shipping
Install at a trans shop: $450 (+/-)
I think thats a good deal dont you guys?
Total price after all is said and done:
Converter: $60
Rebuild by APS: $85 (+ shipping)
Install: around $300
Total: $445
Price for a new converter: $450 + $37 shipping
Install at a trans shop: $450 (+/-)
I think thats a good deal dont you guys?
I would install it myself, but that's just me. I realize that not everyone is a mechanic or there would be no repair shops 
If you know it works and have rode in the truck to see how it acts, then buy it. I wouldn't even bother sending it out if he is just taking it out and has no transmission problems.

If you know it works and have rode in the truck to see how it acts, then buy it. I wouldn't even bother sending it out if he is just taking it out and has no transmission problems.













