Replacing clutch pack clips on 9.25 LSD!
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Joined: Oct 2018
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Yup, I know... all I really wanted to do was replace the axle bearings and seals... It's Turing out to be a much bigger project than I could have anticipated. Looks like the pinion seal is leaking too so I might have to replace them bearings as well. Never been inside a differential before but I think by the time I'm done with this project I'll be a pro!
Last edited by Boom-Shakka-Laka; Nov 10, 2018 at 12:26 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 16
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Too late
It's already done but I will give some advice for problems I ran into.. first, to get the spider gears in and out clamp down on the side gear that is opposite to the ring gear, place the carrier (ring gear down) on an axle shaft. I put my axle shaft inside the rotor so it would stay standing up. And then simply spin the spider gears into place.. once they are in place clamp down on the ring gear side and slide the washers into place. Release the side gears and now put the pin threw them. If the pin does not want to go, lightly tap the side gears with a piece of wood or brass punch to move them just enough to get that pin in.
the next part I had trouble with was the carrier adjusters. I had gotten a piece of all thread bar from a hardware store that ended up snapping before I could get the full 70-75 ft lbs of torque, I think it broke right around 68 ft lbs, so either buy the correct tool, or heavy duty material..
lastly always start with a lower torque than what is recommended. Some bolts will break while others wont. For example my right adjuster lock screw broke with 10 ft lbs after the left side went to 10 ft lbs no problem. (I didn't fix this as I didn't have a screw extractor or a drill on hand, I also needed it the next day for work.) I do plan on taking it to a local mechanic when I get a chance to fix the adjuster screw and double check my work. This is only because I trust him and he always give me a good deal. Plus seeing how this was my first time doing an extensive repair like this it will give me peace of mind that my adjuster isn't getting loose, wearing down my bearings, and going to make me need a whole new carrier..
the next part I had trouble with was the carrier adjusters. I had gotten a piece of all thread bar from a hardware store that ended up snapping before I could get the full 70-75 ft lbs of torque, I think it broke right around 68 ft lbs, so either buy the correct tool, or heavy duty material..
lastly always start with a lower torque than what is recommended. Some bolts will break while others wont. For example my right adjuster lock screw broke with 10 ft lbs after the left side went to 10 ft lbs no problem. (I didn't fix this as I didn't have a screw extractor or a drill on hand, I also needed it the next day for work.) I do plan on taking it to a local mechanic when I get a chance to fix the adjuster screw and double check my work. This is only because I trust him and he always give me a good deal. Plus seeing how this was my first time doing an extensive repair like this it will give me peace of mind that my adjuster isn't getting loose, wearing down my bearings, and going to make me need a whole new carrier..