Another Hellas topic
So I wired up my truck today for the Hellas and had a couple of quick questions. I got everything in place and flipped the switch and kept blowing fuses. In my setup I am using the 100w bulbs, no relay, and a 30 amp switch. I have a fuse between the battery and the switch, and the switch and the bulbs. The fuse between the battery and the switch is the one that is blowing. Both fuses are 20 amp fuses. All of my wire is 14 gauge.
On the writeup by dirtydog he said that the wire runs would only be about 10 feet or less. I believe my runs were almost 18 feet. Where did you guys bring your wires into the cab at?
I also haven't changed the black and blue wires on the housing of the lights yet, and I'm hoping that is what is making the fuses blow. I will be changing that wire out tomorrow after I pick up some more connectors to slide onto the housing.
I was just going to see if you guys thought that the longer wire is causing the problem, or if it is the smaller black and blue wire on the lights themselves?
On the writeup by dirtydog he said that the wire runs would only be about 10 feet or less. I believe my runs were almost 18 feet. Where did you guys bring your wires into the cab at?
I also haven't changed the black and blue wires on the housing of the lights yet, and I'm hoping that is what is making the fuses blow. I will be changing that wire out tomorrow after I pick up some more connectors to slide onto the housing.
I was just going to see if you guys thought that the longer wire is causing the problem, or if it is the smaller black and blue wire on the lights themselves?
You need a relay, no two ways about it. I forget what the fuse on the high current side of my Hi-Lights is, but I believe it's 35A. The low current side of the relay is 3A. It's possible your switch has a problem, but first wire it right so you don't have a smoked truck.
Use a meter and see if the switch is putting a momentary short on the circuit as it closes. In any event, use the switch to trigger the low-current side of the relay.
My cabling comes into the cab through the plate where the clutch linkage would be: inboard and slight above the brake booster. Total wire length is probably not more than fifteen feet including the run up to the switch in the O/H console.
Use a meter and see if the switch is putting a momentary short on the circuit as it closes. In any event, use the switch to trigger the low-current side of the relay.
My cabling comes into the cab through the plate where the clutch linkage would be: inboard and slight above the brake booster. Total wire length is probably not more than fifteen feet including the run up to the switch in the O/H console.
I went off of dirty's DIY and I havent had any problems. I didnt use a relay either, do you have good grounds? I would recheck all your connections. I will look to see which size fuses I went with. Did you upgrade your switch?
I have good grounds from the lights. I used self tappers right to the front brace. I guess the only ground I would question would be the one connected to the switch. I have my switch mounted near the floor underneath the cup holders. I didn't really see any good places under there ground to, but I will look again tomorrow. Are there any good places near the brake or gas pedal?
Trending Topics
I dont think it would be your ground, i ran my wire right though the side of the door from under the hood to right into the dash. If youre blowing the fuse, make sure all your wires are done up with electrical tape and re-route them to make sure that nothing is crossed with something it shouldnt be crossed with. Also, make sure you use electrical tape with all the wires that are in contact with your switch, they could be coming in contact with eachother.
I have had no problems with my lights and i do not have a single fuse on it but will be putting one in although i am only running the 35w bulbs in the lights
set up is pretty much lights ground and power through the switch then a short ground from the switch and it all looks good
set up is pretty much lights ground and power through the switch then a short ground from the switch and it all looks good



