how good does this sound....what is the rms on the amp....

 

It doesnt sound too bad. If your serious about your audio system, dont do what I did. I just made this to get the big *** box the speakers came in off the backseat. Follow dirtydogg. Not sure on the rms watts though. 100 maybe. I painted over the sticker that was barely legible anyway.

Wasnt looking to buy a capacitor. Just wanted to know what they did.

 

Here you go,hard to beat for the money.....
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R500...-1.html?tp=115

this amp comes with an EQ **** so you can dial it up when you are alone and dial down when you got the little one in the truck.

 

The wiring is a important part to the system. I wouldn't just throw house wiring in there. I would go to a audio store and get 20ft of 4 gauge audio power wire. its a little big for your amp but in the future if you add another amp to power your speakers you'll be fine. Also the wire your using is pretty tiny, i wouldn't trust it. Put it into perspective, im going to be running 0awg wire to power 2 amps in the future. however one is 2000w rms and the other is 600rms

 

How about this amp. Not too much time left.

 

I have to hand it to you bud you did a really nice job making that bolt amp look good I'll bet it's the best looking Bolt on the earth as a matter of fact but,you can polish a turd all day long and at the end of the day it's still a turd.

 

bla bla bla... all this talk from all of you about "need a bigger amp" or "need more watts"...

Geez, I can tell that you guys really know very little about car audio in general, must be the same mentality that a 5.7 Hemi is so much better than say a 4 cylinder, when we all know that the 4 could have a turbo and run circles around the aforementioned v8.

Look I have been doing this for a living basically for about 24 years+ now, and I have seen systems that would baffle the mind and out boom systems with 10x the amount of power. The guys in the under 100 watt class are the guys to watch. Multitude of subs, speakers and such all running through one amp that put out less than 100 rated rms amp. The key is NOT to buy subs and speakers that can handle 1000 watts or something unneeded, you buy the less expensive models that handle say 100 watts rms or something in that area, then you use an amp like the Bolt to push them. They are then likely to put out their maximun db with a correctly designed box.

I have built many small systems that out-performed some of my other customers that spent all their money on over-rated amps/woofers/sound processors and fancy installs that were show quality. And the reason why, simple is always better. More components = more noise, greater possibility of engine whine, loss of signal quality, never enough voltage to go around requiring capacitors, multi battery setups, larger alternators, and even poor vehicle interior design which also plays a huge part in how your system sounds. So many reasons, so little time.

I am sure the OP's system sounds fine for what he is using it for. He has typically the limited space of under the rear seat to work with so why waste money on woofers that are rated at 1000 watts or such when there isnt enough airspace to warrant a woofer like that to begin with... a rule of thumb, 10" needs .5 cf+, 12" needs .75+ and a 15" about 1.2 cubes+, and these are absolute minimums. And the cubes go up when the woofers require more power to move them further(throw) which at the high end(huge watt systems) is what your looking for then.

I just couldnt remain quite after seeing so many people jump on the "you need a bigger amp" wagon, when thats an unqualified response. I guess because large wattage amps have come down so much in price over the years that instinctively people buy the bigger and better instead of paying closer attention to matching power ratings of woofers with the amps while taking into consideration space given.

Rant over...

 

So your telling me as a professional installer that you would recommend a Bolt amp to one of your customers to push thier subs? BS!

 

I've got to disagree with almost EVERYTHING you've said. As a matter of fact, based on what you've said it sounds like you have never been in any Audio contest or have had any REAL stereo. Sounds like you've done ALOT of reading.
First of all. There is plenty of room for an astounding system to be built into the Dodge Ram QC. I personally have 2-10's that run off 1200watts RMS and my door speakers that run off of 450watts rms combined. Definitely not overpowered and they are matched very well. My charging system is perfectly fine as well. My lights don't dim at even the largest burst of bass. I do have a capacitor anyways. The main reason of no dimming is because QUALITY products that are 80% efficient. Class D. Most cheapo amps are A/B as they are cheaper to manufactur but are only 60-75% at best efficient which puts strain on your charging system.

As far as competing with guys that are running 100watts. Those are WAY UNDERRATED TOP NOTCH amplifiers that are pushing 100watts at 8ohm and nearly 2,000watts at 1/4ohm, thus called a "cheater" amp. You cannot compare those amplifiers to a Bolt or Walmart amp or any amp that doesn't come from an Authorized dealer or reputable company.
Amps haven't gotten all that much cheaper. What has happened, is that the cheaper amps are over rating their power which makes it seem like a better bargain.
There are many other factors involved than just mating the sub with the amp and putting it in the correct box volume(which nobody ever does because they don't know how to do the proper math or they just cannot get enough airspace)
You need to look at the Quality of the amp. Take a Pioneer amp from Walmart. i think they have an 880w Pioneer??? I'm just gonna guess that the distortion rate is very high like 1% and that it was rated at 2.83v@1m which is an unrealistic ouput reading. 1w@1m is the real deal which is lower than the 2.83 and is what all REAL actual rated amps. Now on Subs, it's not that big of a deal to have 1% THD. But is is imperative to have an amp that produces the power stated and be very consistent as well.

As far as noise.....Cheap components give off lots of noise. How can you possibly say that a simple cheapo amp sounds better than a JL audio(for Ex.)???? It cannot and never will be able to. Simple is never better in the Stereo World. A car is one of the worse sound reproduction field you could possibly ask for when it comes to stereo sound. Sound processors and all that Fancy equiptment makes it sound way better. Adding delay to the driverside midrange to correct the soundfield is one of the more important factors involved making sure all the sound gets to the listener at the same time without all the crazy amounts of backwaves and early arrivals that a "simple" system produces.
Just to give you an idea. A Simple Cheap amp like a Pioneer 880w gives user adjustments on Level ouput, Frequency range and maybe a button that switches from high-low pass.
A Quaility amp wil provide.., Level outputs, Frequency range, High-low Pass, Subsonic Filtration, Inline Voltage w/sensitivity adjustment, both low and mid frerquency range adjusters, Slope level 12/24db.

You see the difference now? Unless your in High End audio, most have no clue as to what the real differences are. It's mind boggling all the stuff that needs to be touched upon in a automobile to keep everything in sync with each other.
Now, i have had simpler installs that sound great, but when paired to an Audiophiles car....No comparison. So for someone to say that SImpler is better is a total crock!
Everything matters, right down to the RCA's used. Using RCA cables that cost $100 are better than $20 one's for the main reason of noise suppression along the way. Too many guys run nice stuff and cheap cables. i just don't understand it? If anything you want the best cable out there even if you have a cheapo amp.

Now, I'm not saying his amp is total crap. Just that that Bolt amp doesn't have enough power to run those woofers which have PLENTY of room for cone movement with the correct amount of power. A rule of thumb is add up all your fuses and mulitply them by the amount of current supplied (12v-14.4v?) using 13v is a middle man and a better estimate than 14. So take your fuse amount ....60amps x 13v=780 then divide this by the number of channels. This is the absolute total output possible from your amp. 780/2channels=340watts total Peak Spike power. very few cheap amps reach their peak power without distortion which is another problem i won't dive into. That is why you need an amp rated for more power than you will use. FYI...My input levels are all the way down on my amps as i have a line driver boosting the input voltage.
having noise problems is generally a Bad ground, Cheap speaker wire/ RCA's, using the RCA ground wire as the remote lead(lots of people do and it's not what it's made for) crossing power wires over or running them next to spealer/RCA wires. Noise has nothing to do with the quality of components installed nor does it have to do with how many are installed.

One last thing. yes my Hemi is better than a 4cylinder. Cannot compare apples to oranges by saying that if you put a turbo on a 4cylinder then it would walk the Hemi. Well Tousche. What about adding a Turbo to the Hemi as you've said about doing to the 4cyl. Then apples-apples...It wouldn't walk the Hemi.
Not to mention your still talking about 2 differnet things. A truck vs a car??? How bout a v6 ram vs a v8 ram.
A truck weighs 6,000lbs+ because they Tow/haul. 4cylinders are useless in this field. So next time.. Compare apples to apples. This means a 12" sub isn't necessarily better than a 10" sub....etc

 

1st off I know exactly what I am talking about... I have been putting systems into auto's now since I was 15(41 now), back when there were no "cheater" amps as it is now, so I speak from experience. I used to have to build those 100 watt systems. Plus all amps must be rated at 4 ohms(not 8 as you mention).

To begin with when a dude is buying stuff off of craigslist, then dont bring in a normal retail purchase experience like who would recommend what. That is not what we are talking about here. I relate this to having a customer walk in and want stuff installed, his stuff, so you do your best to do so. You cant really offer a warranty but an install is an install...

And as for the rest of all of that...

SIMPLE is better, I didnt go into the quality side of rca, or if your using gold plated this or that or the size of the wire... you buy what you can afford(on an unlimited budget we wouldnt be having this discussion) I am talking about the addition of more needless accessories such as processors, or eq's or a host of other crap that this dude and myself and most of the others on here dont need and will never need. All this stuff does is cause you more issues down the road with noise or prove to be more of a hassle to adjust and tweak than any of us here really give a crude about. OH sure you can spend a couple of hours messing with all the settings of the best of the best audio junk out there but when it comes down to real world use, the problem is that country song that you love so much, sounds like dog-doo when your system has been tweaked using your favorite rap or bass tracks.

And watts vs. sound... many lower wattage woofers have a higher 1 watt db rating than the 1000 watt, which means they are more efficient. This means less watts to get the same sound. Many amps granted are also of what I always refer to as WSL(when struck by lightning) meaning that many amps rated at 300 watts or more probly couldnt acheive that rating unless struck by lightning, once and only that once. I come from the days of the underdash eq's that were rated like this, back when you had knock-off brands like Alphine.

Look its like this... and its simple... biggest wire you can afford straight to battery with either the proper fuse or circuit breaker. Equal size wire for ground, no longer than 18 inches to body ground. 10 ga min... obviously moving to 8, 4, 2 or bigger depending on your needs. Use the best quality rca's you can afford or digital wire, whatever your connection is. Solidly mount everything, make sure boxes have a good seal or tuned correctly with a port. Proper cubes. Most important, have a good signal to begin with, which is your radio. Better radios output higher line voltages. Make sure your amp has adaquate ventilation, overheating kills quick.

The OP found a super cheap deal on amp and woofers, I think for what he has going its a great setup and probly sounds fairly good and for even a couple hundred bucks more probly wouldnt end up with anything sounding a whole lot different to begin with.