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Old Aug 5, 2015, 09:09 PM
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 06:02 AM
  #101  
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Good morning. Yes, you have to remove the FCM first. There are no screws but plastic molding, so you have to carefully drill it out, just the head (you will need to save the post to tap and close the case with screws. Patience is really necessary here, the board can be easily damaged.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 07:04 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by BBICLBIC
Hello after reading your post .How did you get the top off the power dist box ? Did you have to remove the front module frist ? thanks

Decent video on that subject sent to me by someone on the forum when I was having issues with a light circuit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Puho...ature=youtu.be

Here is what I found when I opened up my 04 1500 fuse box...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...ng-lights.html
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 08:03 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by castironman
I recently attempted a repair on one of this units from a 2004 dodge ram 1500, the lamp relay was not working, missing ground, I open up the fuse box, not too hard, scraped the holding plastic tabs and used a trace repair wire and some insulated wire to replace the places that were corroded then used dielectric grease to cover the repairs and insulate the board. water gets there easily since it is mounted over the left fender and where the connectors get into is only open space... it works now.
Thank you castironman for the pictures. One quick question, where do the two wires go to the other side of the board? looks like you drilled through holes to join pins j34 to something on the other side of the board and the same for the j11 (through the board) to something. I know that j34 goes to j11 through the board itself (I think) but I'm at a loss as to where j11 goes to on it's own side unless you added the two wire through the board because j34 and j11 had no continuity through the board itself anymore?

Thanks
 

Last edited by choirnot; Nov 30, 2019 at 03:53 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #104  
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which the code that i need to match with my FCM the one that is in the very top or the one that said vendor code
 
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 09:26 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by abarmby
100% this is the Power distribution module........the fuse box to you and I.
This is a common issue and relates to the grounding path you mentioned, being corroded deep within the fuse box.
I did all you mentioned above and used a switched ground flying lead in my cab, to get the running lights working.
I eventually traced out all the gound and input paths to the running lights and discovered this fuse box problem.
Do a search on here and you will find several articles on this very subject.
I personally PM'd several members on here who were somewhat scepticle about the fuse box fix. However, when they changed them out, they all worked as has mine for over 3 years now.
This is still a $250+ part, but it will sort your problems for you.
Hope this helps and has saved you a lot of grief???
Al.
Did you check and see if the tail lamp fuses are getting any power? My lower brake lights are not working. the third one is. i have replaced the brake lamp switch and no go. I checked the fuses for trailer lights and left and right brake lights and they have no power going to them even when i press the brake pedal. Do you believe this would be a PDM issue as well? Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2022 | 05:56 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Ken2
Sorry to dig up an old thread.
Maybe a better solution has already been figured out, but this is what I ended up doing.

My truck is not worth a $600 part for the running lights to work.

I have the same problem as everyone else.
My blinkers, headlights, breaklights, and everything work, but my tail lights / parking lights, don't work because of the FCM I guess.

myoukey's post was helpful, and I was trying to find a temporary solution.

Here was what I came up with.
The Relay #72 controls the tail lights / running lights.
As it was, my relay wasn't doing anything because of the FCM, so there was no need for it anymore.

I did not want to run wires into the cab with a toggle switch to turn the tail lights on, so I searched for a power source that was only on when the key was on.
I used fuse #29 which is a cigar lighter.
I put a jumper from the bottom side of the #29 fuse, to the "top" side of the #72 relay.

It only gives power when the key is on, so my running lights are on anytime the truck is running, but I can live with that.

Here is a picture.
Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.
I'm sorry to boost up an old thread too.

But it's a good thread.

My problem is the headlights are mostly gone, no low beams and only one high beam.

All my other lights are working for now.

I want to use this genius idea where you powered the running lights with that jumper from the cigar lighter, but in my case run the power wires out to the two low beam headlight feed wires.

That cigar lighter plug is all by itself.

Will it have enough juice to run the low beams without causing a problem?

If this would work, as soon as I turn the key, power would go to the low beams.

Any wiring guys out there know?




Like you said, Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2022 | 08:28 PM
  #107  
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I believe that i would check your inside kick panel fuse box first .Do you have a sunroof ? Reason i am asking is that my 2004 Dodge durango 5.7 hemi had a sunroof .And this happened to me & others with sunroofs .When it rained the sunroof leaked the water would gp right into the kick fuse panel .When dodge built it they put a small drain hole tube that would route the water to go out under your car .But guess when it gets plugged with Dirt ,pine needles the water has to go other places lucky us . Anyway i had taken my kick panel fuse box all the way out .And opened the plastic cover off of kick panel .And you would not believe the corrosion that the fuse board had . Only use 90 or higher rubbing alcohol to clean the board up really good .I use a water clear coxing on outside cover to sealing it hopefully from getting wet again .Worked for me for about 4 years .Started again No Lights ,No Radio . So i tryed cleaning it again but it was shot .So i bought a new 0ne for $800 bucs .Then i sold my durango .To many electronic & wiring issue .Hope this help you out . One other thing the FCM rairly goes BAD .They claim ok .
 
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Old Nov 21, 2022 | 09:24 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by William Ulery
I believe that i would check your inside kick panel fuse box first .Do you have a sunroof ? Reason i am asking is that my 2004 Dodge durango 5.7 hemi had a sunroof .And this happened to me & others with sunroofs .When it rained the sunroof leaked the water would gp right into the kick fuse panel .When dodge built it they put a small drain hole tube that would route the water to go out under your car .But guess when it gets plugged with Dirt ,pine needles the water has to go other places lucky us . Anyway i had taken my kick panel fuse box all the way out .And opened the plastic cover off of kick panel .And you would not believe the corrosion that the fuse board had . Only use 90 or higher rubbing alcohol to clean the board up really good .I use a water clear coxing on outside cover to sealing it hopefully from getting wet again .Worked for me for about 4 years .Started again No Lights ,No Radio . So i tryed cleaning it again but it was shot .So i bought a new 0ne for $800 bucs .Then i sold my durango .To many electronic & wiring issue .Hope this help you out . One other thing the FCM rairly goes BAD .They claim ok .
Thanks for the reply. I did see the Durango has an interior kick panel fuse box as well as the under the hood set up. Our era Rams only have the under the hood box. I think I read in 2006 they got rid of the FCM and put it all into the TIPM. Fuse 11 and 13 supply power to the FCM which manages the lights.


And you might be right about the FCM going bad.

More like a connection issue with some of the pins not making proper contact.

You said it, Too many electronic & wiring issues.

Depressing.

At least the trannys working good.

You can still start it up and drive it without the FCM, just not at night.

Can't drive to work before the sun comes up.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2024 | 06:10 AM
  #109  
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Default Headlight wiring dodge ram 03-06 tipum fcm

Originally Posted by apger90
IM HAVING the SAME issue!!! were you able to figure out what the problem is?
Ok I'll try to help everyone I can with one failed swoop perhaps.
On 03 thru 06 ram tipum and fcm u need to pull the fcm reconnect batt,then prob with light or meter on the 3rd 4 th lg holes in tipum or fuse box,then on opposite side the same thing and u should put a load test on each of the pin holes yiu can use a tailight bulb it shuld be sufficiant..this will tell you if yoyr circut board has issues.if it's ok then check for plug in harnesses issues heres the colir codes all headlight wires are white with tracers some green in dri ers and brown and lt blu on passenger. You can tap into these and apply 12 volts and it should make each headlight come in.also your amber or turn signal and parking lights are on differebt harness.
Hope this helps good luck
 
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Old Mar 14, 2024 | 08:14 AM
  #110  
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Hey, doges R us.... welcome to the forum!

You joined yesterday and jumped right in with a solution... you are the new members we are looking for! Sharing your experience is a great way to start out
... again, welcome!

Yeah, IPM / TIPM is where I always start with electrical gremlins. I think Walter Dodge and his brothers had a great concept, yet the follow through and follow up were a bit lacking.

I sort of understand the concept you described about load testing the circuitry (with more than just a [low load] multi meter *(or dare I say LED), using a lamp bulb) but I am unsure where you are testing. Could you perhaps take a moment to go into more detail?

...and you do this test with the FCM disconnected?
 
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