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Front Control Module (FCM)
Good morning. Yes, you have to remove the FCM first. There are no screws but plastic molding, so you have to carefully drill it out, just the head (you will need to save the post to tap and close the case with screws. Patience is really necessary here, the board can be easily damaged.
Decent video on that subject sent to me by someone on the forum when I was having issues with a light circuit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Puho...ature=youtu.be
Here is what I found when I opened up my 04 1500 fuse box...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...ng-lights.html
I recently attempted a repair on one of this units from a 2004 dodge ram 1500, the lamp relay was not working, missing ground, I open up the fuse box, not too hard, scraped the holding plastic tabs and used a trace repair wire and some insulated wire to replace the places that were corroded then used dielectric grease to cover the repairs and insulate the board. water gets there easily since it is mounted over the left fender and where the connectors get into is only open space... it works now.
Thanks
Last edited by choirnot; Nov 30, 2019 at 03:53 PM.
100% this is the Power distribution module........the fuse box to you and I.
This is a common issue and relates to the grounding path you mentioned, being corroded deep within the fuse box.
I did all you mentioned above and used a switched ground flying lead in my cab, to get the running lights working.
I eventually traced out all the gound and input paths to the running lights and discovered this fuse box problem.
Do a search on here and you will find several articles on this very subject.
I personally PM'd several members on here who were somewhat scepticle about the fuse box fix. However, when they changed them out, they all worked as has mine for over 3 years now.
This is still a $250+ part, but it will sort your problems for you.
Hope this helps and has saved you a lot of grief???
Al.
This is a common issue and relates to the grounding path you mentioned, being corroded deep within the fuse box.
I did all you mentioned above and used a switched ground flying lead in my cab, to get the running lights working.
I eventually traced out all the gound and input paths to the running lights and discovered this fuse box problem.
Do a search on here and you will find several articles on this very subject.
I personally PM'd several members on here who were somewhat scepticle about the fuse box fix. However, when they changed them out, they all worked as has mine for over 3 years now.
This is still a $250+ part, but it will sort your problems for you.
Hope this helps and has saved you a lot of grief???
Al.
Sorry to dig up an old thread.
Maybe a better solution has already been figured out, but this is what I ended up doing.
My truck is not worth a $600 part for the running lights to work.
I have the same problem as everyone else.
My blinkers, headlights, breaklights, and everything work, but my tail lights / parking lights, don't work because of the FCM I guess.
myoukey's post was helpful, and I was trying to find a temporary solution.
Here was what I came up with.
The Relay #72 controls the tail lights / running lights.
As it was, my relay wasn't doing anything because of the FCM, so there was no need for it anymore.
I did not want to run wires into the cab with a toggle switch to turn the tail lights on, so I searched for a power source that was only on when the key was on.
I used fuse #29 which is a cigar lighter.
I put a jumper from the bottom side of the #29 fuse, to the "top" side of the #72 relay.
It only gives power when the key is on, so my running lights are on anytime the truck is running, but I can live with that.
Here is a picture.
Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.
Maybe a better solution has already been figured out, but this is what I ended up doing.
My truck is not worth a $600 part for the running lights to work.
I have the same problem as everyone else.
My blinkers, headlights, breaklights, and everything work, but my tail lights / parking lights, don't work because of the FCM I guess.
myoukey's post was helpful, and I was trying to find a temporary solution.
Here was what I came up with.
The Relay #72 controls the tail lights / running lights.
As it was, my relay wasn't doing anything because of the FCM, so there was no need for it anymore.
I did not want to run wires into the cab with a toggle switch to turn the tail lights on, so I searched for a power source that was only on when the key was on.
I used fuse #29 which is a cigar lighter.
I put a jumper from the bottom side of the #29 fuse, to the "top" side of the #72 relay.
It only gives power when the key is on, so my running lights are on anytime the truck is running, but I can live with that.
Here is a picture.
Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.
But it's a good thread.
My problem is the headlights are mostly gone, no low beams and only one high beam.
All my other lights are working for now.
I want to use this genius idea where you powered the running lights with that jumper from the cigar lighter, but in my case run the power wires out to the two low beam headlight feed wires.
That cigar lighter plug is all by itself.
Will it have enough juice to run the low beams without causing a problem?
If this would work, as soon as I turn the key, power would go to the low beams.
Any wiring guys out there know?
Like you said, Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.
I believe that i would check your inside kick panel fuse box first .Do you have a sunroof ? Reason i am asking is that my 2004 Dodge durango 5.7 hemi had a sunroof .And this happened to me & others with sunroofs .When it rained the sunroof leaked the water would gp right into the kick fuse panel .When dodge built it they put a small drain hole tube that would route the water to go out under your car .But guess when it gets plugged with Dirt ,pine needles the water has to go other places lucky us . Anyway i had taken my kick panel fuse box all the way out .And opened the plastic cover off of kick panel .And you would not believe the corrosion that the fuse board had . Only use 90 or higher rubbing alcohol to clean the board up really good .I use a water clear coxing on outside cover to sealing it hopefully from getting wet again .Worked for me for about 4 years .Started again No Lights ,No Radio . So i tryed cleaning it again but it was shot .So i bought a new 0ne for $800 bucs .Then i sold my durango .To many electronic & wiring issue .Hope this help you out . One other thing the FCM rairly goes BAD .They claim ok .
I believe that i would check your inside kick panel fuse box first .Do you have a sunroof ? Reason i am asking is that my 2004 Dodge durango 5.7 hemi had a sunroof .And this happened to me & others with sunroofs .When it rained the sunroof leaked the water would gp right into the kick fuse panel .When dodge built it they put a small drain hole tube that would route the water to go out under your car .But guess when it gets plugged with Dirt ,pine needles the water has to go other places lucky us . Anyway i had taken my kick panel fuse box all the way out .And opened the plastic cover off of kick panel .And you would not believe the corrosion that the fuse board had . Only use 90 or higher rubbing alcohol to clean the board up really good .I use a water clear coxing on outside cover to sealing it hopefully from getting wet again .Worked for me for about 4 years .Started again No Lights ,No Radio . So i tryed cleaning it again but it was shot .So i bought a new 0ne for $800 bucs .Then i sold my durango .To many electronic & wiring issue .Hope this help you out . One other thing the FCM rairly goes BAD .They claim ok .
And you might be right about the FCM going bad.
More like a connection issue with some of the pins not making proper contact.
You said it, Too many electronic & wiring issues.
Depressing.
At least the trannys working good.
You can still start it up and drive it without the FCM, just not at night.
Can't drive to work before the sun comes up.
On 03 thru 06 ram tipum and fcm u need to pull the fcm reconnect batt,then prob with light or meter on the 3rd 4 th lg holes in tipum or fuse box,then on opposite side the same thing and u should put a load test on each of the pin holes yiu can use a tailight bulb it shuld be sufficiant..this will tell you if yoyr circut board has issues.if it's ok then check for plug in harnesses issues heres the colir codes all headlight wires are white with tracers some green in dri ers and brown and lt blu on passenger. You can tap into these and apply 12 volts and it should make each headlight come in.also your amber or turn signal and parking lights are on differebt harness.
Hope this helps good luck
Hey, doges R us.... welcome to the forum!
You joined yesterday and jumped right in with a solution... you are the new members we are looking for! Sharing your experience is a great way to start out
... again, welcome!
Yeah, IPM / TIPM is where I always start with electrical gremlins. I think Walter Dodge and his brothers had a great concept, yet the follow through and follow up were a bit lacking.
I sort of understand the concept you described about load testing the circuitry (with more than just a [low load] multi meter *(or dare I say LED), using a lamp bulb) but I am unsure where you are testing. Could you perhaps take a moment to go into more detail?
...and you do this test with the FCM disconnected?
You joined yesterday and jumped right in with a solution... you are the new members we are looking for! Sharing your experience is a great way to start out
... again, welcome!
Yeah, IPM / TIPM is where I always start with electrical gremlins. I think Walter Dodge and his brothers had a great concept, yet the follow through and follow up were a bit lacking.
I sort of understand the concept you described about load testing the circuitry (with more than just a [low load] multi meter *(or dare I say LED), using a lamp bulb) but I am unsure where you are testing. Could you perhaps take a moment to go into more detail?
...and you do this test with the FCM disconnected?









