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Front Control Module (FCM)
#62
03-22-2012, 08:05 PM
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I did this and swapped out the bad Fuse box with a ebay bought one for 25$, but I had to look for a while before I found matching part numbers. Even then I lost my power mirrors and brake controller with the used unit and just ran a circuit.
This is a crappy problem to have to fix. I have 2 extra FCM's and an extra fuse box (I ordered the wrong one the first try) and can check part numbers for you guys in case you wanna give it a shot and see if they are compatible. My Ram is an 05.
My auto electrician recommended a new one because you cant guarentee how long a used one will last, unless you protect the bottom. I do not believe that the new 474$ fuse box is any different in design then the one you are replacing. The issue may or may return either way.
I replaced mine at 96000 miles and it has lasted me almost 50,000. You choose.
Either way try and protect the bottem where all the connectors are and maybe youll have luck after the replace
This is a crappy problem to have to fix. I have 2 extra FCM's and an extra fuse box (I ordered the wrong one the first try) and can check part numbers for you guys in case you wanna give it a shot and see if they are compatible. My Ram is an 05.
My auto electrician recommended a new one because you cant guarentee how long a used one will last, unless you protect the bottom. I do not believe that the new 474$ fuse box is any different in design then the one you are replacing. The issue may or may return either way.
I replaced mine at 96000 miles and it has lasted me almost 50,000. You choose.
Either way try and protect the bottem where all the connectors are and maybe youll have luck after the replace
Last edited by slakker25rs; 03-22-2012 at 08:11 PM.
#63
03-22-2012, 08:06 PM
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I did this same thing earlier in the week and it fixed all my issues! Its easy to do, just drill out the three plastic welds and pry it apart. About an hour of work to save yourself $500 is a nice pay off lol
Think this might be a good thread to post this on....
For all of you having the difficulty of having no parking / running and plate lights I faced the same issue recently. There is a simple extremely cheap solution if you know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter.
If you remove the fuse box and detach the FCM you can test for continuity between pin 15 where the FCM plugs in and pin 30 on the parking lamp rely (think it is 30 - writing this out of memory). If there is no continuity open the fuse box and go to the bottom side of the very bottom layer of the boards (should be the only green circuit card looking layer) and simply solder in a wire from where FMC pin 15 is connected to the board to where the relay pin 30 (the only pin extending to the surface from the bottom layer to the relay). when everything gets put back together there is ample room to have a wire on the board in that location. I personally did not run a wire I found the "dead" spot on the trace and repaired it. Running a 22 guage splice wire would have been much easier - I was thinking that it wouldn't fit, but when I got it back together I realized it would have. Either way, I didn't have to buy a new fuse box or FCM. While I was in there I did a little weather prevention as well, just to try to avoid future problems.
If anyone has any questions just let me know.
For all of you having the difficulty of having no parking / running and plate lights I faced the same issue recently. There is a simple extremely cheap solution if you know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter.
If you remove the fuse box and detach the FCM you can test for continuity between pin 15 where the FCM plugs in and pin 30 on the parking lamp rely (think it is 30 - writing this out of memory). If there is no continuity open the fuse box and go to the bottom side of the very bottom layer of the boards (should be the only green circuit card looking layer) and simply solder in a wire from where FMC pin 15 is connected to the board to where the relay pin 30 (the only pin extending to the surface from the bottom layer to the relay). when everything gets put back together there is ample room to have a wire on the board in that location. I personally did not run a wire I found the "dead" spot on the trace and repaired it. Running a 22 guage splice wire would have been much easier - I was thinking that it wouldn't fit, but when I got it back together I realized it would have. Either way, I didn't have to buy a new fuse box or FCM. While I was in there I did a little weather prevention as well, just to try to avoid future problems.
If anyone has any questions just let me know.
#64
03-23-2012, 08:09 AM
My lights first stopped working while I was traveling and I was not going to be home for more than a month. My fix at the time was creating a jumper on the relay with an in line toggle switch just hanging out in the cab. I got lazy for more than a year before I decided to fix it right. glad I finally did and glad I didn't listen to the experts at the shop and replace the expensive fuse box.
#65
05-02-2012, 02:11 PM
Think this might be a good thread to post this on....
For all of you having the difficulty of having no parking / running and plate lights I faced the same issue recently. There is a simple extremely cheap solution if you know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter.
If you remove the fuse box and detach the FCM you can test for continuity between pin 15 where the FCM plugs in and pin 30 on the parking lamp rely (think it is 30 - writing this out of memory). If there is no continuity open the fuse box and go to the bottom side of the very bottom layer of the boards (should be the only green circuit card looking layer) and simply solder in a wire from where FMC pin 15 is connected to the board to where the relay pin 30 (the only pin extending to the surface from the bottom layer to the relay). when everything gets put back together there is ample room to have a wire on the board in that location. I personally did not run a wire I found the "dead" spot on the trace and repaired it. Running a 22 guage splice wire would have been much easier - I was thinking that it wouldn't fit, but when I got it back together I realized it would have. Either way, I didn't have to buy a new fuse box or FCM. While I was in there I did a little weather prevention as well, just to try to avoid future problems.
If anyone has any questions just let me know.
For all of you having the difficulty of having no parking / running and plate lights I faced the same issue recently. There is a simple extremely cheap solution if you know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter.
If you remove the fuse box and detach the FCM you can test for continuity between pin 15 where the FCM plugs in and pin 30 on the parking lamp rely (think it is 30 - writing this out of memory). If there is no continuity open the fuse box and go to the bottom side of the very bottom layer of the boards (should be the only green circuit card looking layer) and simply solder in a wire from where FMC pin 15 is connected to the board to where the relay pin 30 (the only pin extending to the surface from the bottom layer to the relay). when everything gets put back together there is ample room to have a wire on the board in that location. I personally did not run a wire I found the "dead" spot on the trace and repaired it. Running a 22 guage splice wire would have been much easier - I was thinking that it wouldn't fit, but when I got it back together I realized it would have. Either way, I didn't have to buy a new fuse box or FCM. While I was in there I did a little weather prevention as well, just to try to avoid future problems.
If anyone has any questions just let me know.
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Frank Castle (10-06-2020)
#66
05-03-2012, 11:42 AM
#67
09-19-2012, 12:44 AM
Why ME!!! WHY!?? (sarcasm)
HI, let me say I read all of this thread. I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 4x4 4.7 V8 (manual windows and doors version)
I am interested in doing your solder "trick".
My issue is this, the wipers, horn do not work. The cruise control turns on but wont engage into the required speed, head lights, turn signals, break lights, license plate lights, all light up but will not flash. They stay consistently on. The cargo light does turn on and do flash as the break pedal is pressed. ?? I dont get that. The FM station doesn't work.
All the lights and gauges in the instrument cluster work, i get the codes A8 00 and Ad 00, The original miles went from 86,XXX to 76,400 on the digital speedo.
I have opened up the original PMC and did find corrosion. Cleaned it up and there was EXACTLY no change to the symptoms above.
I bought a 2002 used fused box (PCM) it was just dusty.. no corrosion. it did not come with the FCM.
After making the switch, the symptoms were EXACTLY the same. No change what so ever.
I am interested in doing your solder "trick".
My issue is this, the wipers, horn do not work. The cruise control turns on but wont engage into the required speed, head lights, turn signals, break lights, license plate lights, all light up but will not flash. They stay consistently on. The cargo light does turn on and do flash as the break pedal is pressed. ?? I dont get that. The FM station doesn't work.
All the lights and gauges in the instrument cluster work, i get the codes A8 00 and Ad 00, The original miles went from 86,XXX to 76,400 on the digital speedo.
I have opened up the original PMC and did find corrosion. Cleaned it up and there was EXACTLY no change to the symptoms above.
I bought a 2002 used fused box (PCM) it was just dusty.. no corrosion. it did not come with the FCM.
After making the switch, the symptoms were EXACTLY the same. No change what so ever.
#68
10-27-2012, 11:14 AM
Truck on crack
Hello out there! I have a 2002 ram 1500 4.7, auto trans. I love my truck. 117,000 miles. My issue is that for a while all my lights worked fine, one day hit the brights and all of them would blink on, off, on, off. Put head lights back on dim and all was okay. A new development now is my wife washed my truck and my rear lights stay on along with the head lights even though the selector switch is off. I had been reading about the fuse box being the issue, FCM, etc. does it sound like I fit in this category? It sounds like it could be expensive. I read that some wavy folks opened the fuse box for an examination/repair but is this short term repair? I know there aren't any guarantees but any light you can shed would be appreciated. Thanks all
#69
10-27-2012, 01:17 PM
I can't get my wife to clean her own vehicle let alone mine... Maybe that's the problem... your truck is too clean now. Quick take it muddin so it can work again
If you are confident in you tech skills and competent in wiring/soldering, fixing anything in the fuse box can be a long term fix. Heck, I would bet my work in the fuse box will outlast the rest of the fusebox… but then again I have been a professional technician (not auto, however) for a good while.
I recommend you start by writing down the specifics – it helps keep it straight the deeper you have to go. When are what lights on/off. Then group the ones that have the exact same symptoms. Next pull out the wiring diagram from one of the service manuals (got mine from weedahoe - thanks man) and find where the two lines become one - where there common point is and you know your problem is there or earlier in the signal flow.
If there are other components that have common lines with the light you are checking, it would be a good idea to check their function too. For example: If you tail light are not on when they should be are you license plate lights out as well? How about your front marker lights? They all share signal path at some point. This could help you narrow it down very quickly.
If all of your symptoms have a common point of convergence, that component/connector/splice/etc. is very likely to be your culprit.
If you are confident in you tech skills and competent in wiring/soldering, fixing anything in the fuse box can be a long term fix. Heck, I would bet my work in the fuse box will outlast the rest of the fusebox… but then again I have been a professional technician (not auto, however) for a good while.
I recommend you start by writing down the specifics – it helps keep it straight the deeper you have to go. When are what lights on/off. Then group the ones that have the exact same symptoms. Next pull out the wiring diagram from one of the service manuals (got mine from weedahoe - thanks man) and find where the two lines become one - where there common point is and you know your problem is there or earlier in the signal flow.
If there are other components that have common lines with the light you are checking, it would be a good idea to check their function too. For example: If you tail light are not on when they should be are you license plate lights out as well? How about your front marker lights? They all share signal path at some point. This could help you narrow it down very quickly.
If all of your symptoms have a common point of convergence, that component/connector/splice/etc. is very likely to be your culprit.
Last edited by myoukey; 10-27-2012 at 01:21 PM.
#70
01-12-2013, 12:21 PM
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Great thread. Question for myoukey that may help others as well. Is there a way to fix/solder the fuse panel to get around the FCM altogether or bypass and wire around it?
Reason I ask is the lights quit on my 05 Ram Quad CTD and just did a new FCM a year ago this month. Only use the truck for pushing snow so I do need lights but don't really want to stuff another $ 380 part into it.
Reason I ask is the lights quit on my 05 Ram Quad CTD and just did a new FCM a year ago this month. Only use the truck for pushing snow so I do need lights but don't really want to stuff another $ 380 part into it.