Am i taking to much power from the alt?
#12
I'd definitely add a cap to the stereo. Some other ideas are a bigger battery, or larger alternator. Personally, when I get my Road Armor bumpers on the truck (each with a 10k winch) I'm adding the larger alternator, and 2 new Odyessy batteries. A while back I bought a passenger side battery box that the diesel trucks use. Hopefully I'll be all set with this setup.
you can find the larger alternators on ebay for a few hundered and their rated at 230 amps+.
you can find the larger alternators on ebay for a few hundered and their rated at 230 amps+.
#13
Yeah, I have to ask also, same as weedahoe... How do you get to zero, 8, 4, and 2 are your only options really... it doesnt go to 0... well I guess it can haha, not hooking it up is 0 I guess. lol. 6 might be an option also, but I cant remember, its been a while since Ive had to hook anything up...
#15
#16
#17
adding another 4 lights would give you 800 watts of lighting wouldn't it? you have 4 now?
the lights have a constant draw, a capacitor will do nothing for them. it will only be able to damped the affects of the sub hitting. your 8 lights would take up half of your alternator output, nevermind headlights, or foglights if you have them. with that much lighting, a bigger alternator is the way to go.
the lights have a constant draw, a capacitor will do nothing for them. it will only be able to damped the affects of the sub hitting. your 8 lights would take up half of your alternator output, nevermind headlights, or foglights if you have them. with that much lighting, a bigger alternator is the way to go.
#18
And Optima batteries are over priced and dont have a long life span. I have had several and all died around 3 yrs or so. But if you want to continue to add more things that pull more power then the only thing you are able to do is upgrade power/grounds, get a bigger or another battery and alt. There are no quick simple fixes coming short of stop adding things that require power and/or getting rid of some.
But I can understand you you running your stereo and amps but I dont think you are running your stereo and ALL light all at the same time. My ONE amp is double yours and I didnt have those issues.
But I can understand you you running your stereo and amps but I dont think you are running your stereo and ALL light all at the same time. My ONE amp is double yours and I didnt have those issues.
Last edited by weedahoe; 10-07-2009 at 02:58 PM.
#19
Sub connections can actually go down to 1/4ohm for some competition amps. Running your amp at a lower ohm than it's rated for will fry it.
Adding an extra battery won't cut it. if your alternator doesn't have the juice to re-charge the original, then how is it going to have enough power to charge the 2nd one as well????
The only option that is a Fix to the problem is upgrading your alternator. Throw a 200amp on there. That will allow you to run everything without any dimming while the truck is running. Even at idle.
A 2nd battery will help when the truck is turned off so the drain from the lights will be disbursed betwene the 2 batteries and not just one. Also, you must have enough alternator power to fully charge both batteries within a reasonable amount of time.
I have a continuous 1300watts RMS to my subs and a 450watts to my highs. At idle and fully cranked, i get zero dim. I have a Batcap300. it's equivelant to a 300 cranking amp battery and is as powerful as a 100farad capacitor. it's a micro battery that has the quick charge of a capacitor and the power of a large battery. I've had it 4 years now and it still works like a champ. Cost me $140 on ebay. I ran my mustang off of that tiny little battery for a few weeks as my Optima went dead on me. Car cranked over quick and it was like the Optima battery was working....except it wasn't installed....lol
Adding an extra battery won't cut it. if your alternator doesn't have the juice to re-charge the original, then how is it going to have enough power to charge the 2nd one as well????
The only option that is a Fix to the problem is upgrading your alternator. Throw a 200amp on there. That will allow you to run everything without any dimming while the truck is running. Even at idle.
A 2nd battery will help when the truck is turned off so the drain from the lights will be disbursed betwene the 2 batteries and not just one. Also, you must have enough alternator power to fully charge both batteries within a reasonable amount of time.
I have a continuous 1300watts RMS to my subs and a 450watts to my highs. At idle and fully cranked, i get zero dim. I have a Batcap300. it's equivelant to a 300 cranking amp battery and is as powerful as a 100farad capacitor. it's a micro battery that has the quick charge of a capacitor and the power of a large battery. I've had it 4 years now and it still works like a champ. Cost me $140 on ebay. I ran my mustang off of that tiny little battery for a few weeks as my Optima went dead on me. Car cranked over quick and it was like the Optima battery was working....except it wasn't installed....lol
#20
Yea i actually leave all my highs on for about 20 min sometimes that includes both headlights and the 4 aux headlights behind the grill...i also have my stereo on pounding the entire time.....its ok for about 20 min but then she hits and the lights diiiiimmmm but my voltage stays the same wtf is with that??