No lose connections for the seats. The heating elements melted themselves on both sides And as for the overhead, haven't had a chance to pull her down yet. Has to be a bad sodder though...

And I'm going to do plugs, wires, cap + rotor, fuel filter all at the same time. Hopefully that will help out with any problem I'm having with those.. Since I have the 3" body lift it will be very easy to swap the cap and rotor because it's not jammed under the firewall anymore, lol. I'll grab an autozone pressure gauge and check what PSI I'm getting, also. What is optimial? Around 60-70ish?

 

The fuel filter is built into the pump so if you're gonna change that, bring your wallet. As for the pressure, talk to some guys in the second gen area, there's alot more 5.9s there than you'll find in the third. I'll do some digging and see if I can't come up with a range for ya.
UPDATE:
Everywhere I've looked have said the pressure should be around 49psi.

 

Ahh in the tank huh... Well, I've done a few fuel pump's before, their not bad on trucks. Just drop the tank and it's right there. I'll check out the PSI first.

 

Yeah it's pretty easy to change, but I hear it can be pricey.

 

Yeah.. well, I don't know if you guys have talked about this or not, but I think in the coming week I'm going to rip apart the motor and do a few things. I believe my dodge was given the "deathflash" as a stupid remedy for the blown intake plenum gasket, like most dodges with the 5.9 get. So, as my superchip will fix the timing, I am willing to bet some good money my motor will start to ping due to the blown intake plenum gasket. So I figure I will order the APS Plenum kit, comes with a good gasket, the billet aluminum 1/4" thick plate(to fix the block/intake expansion in heat problem), and all new bolts. I think while I'm in there putting that in, I may as well take out the divider and runners inside the intake(I heard this helps with HP), port out the throttle body, spark plugs/wires/rotor+cap, and I was even thinking about getting some good rockers. Anybody have some opinion on these? What about the 180 degree t-stat? Any help? Or shouldn't even bother. Let me know what you guys are thinking. You guys have the best opinions and ideas on here, so may as well put them to work
Alex

 

Hey all! I got that superchip, so I went out and all went well. Top speed is now 140, adjusted tire size for 37's, changed stock rev limiter to 5870rpm's, tuned for performance 91 octane, all shifts points changed(and WAY better), so it seems like it did a lot of good. It tuned very easily, and nicely. No problems at all. I thought I was going to get pinging, but there was none. Motor sounds strong and beefy as ever. Here is the question though. When I floor it, I can get to around 4,000rpm, and that's it. Even the tuner says I should be able to hit almost 6! So a tune-up is definitely in place, correct?

BTW: Seat of my pants dyno says it improved power. :-)
(Superchips 3815, on a 5.9L 2002 Auto)

 

Hey, another update. I'm going to try and solve my max rev problem, I believe it is in the ignition. I picked up a Borg Warner rotor + cap, they look nice and were on a great sale. I'll take some pics along the way, of my old cap(and probably how burnt out my contacts are), with the install of the new ones. MSD super conductor 8.5 wires coming next week, along with Iridium NGK IX's. (Let's see if I can hit my 6,000 rpm mark after this)

 

Installed the distributor cap and rotor this morning. Wasn't too bad, but getting up in the truck and leaning in to work on it was a PITA. First, I labeled all the plug wires on the old cap 1 through 8, going clockwise so I could -easily- reinstall them. I labeled the center coil wire with a C. I then popped em all off, and proceeded to remove the two philips screws from the left and right side of the cap. I have a 3" body lift, so I could use a regular screw driver. Those people without a body lift, just use a stubby phillips or a small socket + short extension. Right side screw was rusted as heck, came out slow, but I used a socket and it was fine. Pulled her off, and what do you know, nasty corrosion on all the terminals on the inside. The rotor end was black and had gunk/tar crap on it. I slid the old rotor right off(pulling straight up), and popped the new one on. HINT: Use a mirror back in there, makes life a lot easier. I then put the new cap on, just remember the "1" on the cap will be on the left hand (passenger) side facing. I tightened up the screws, and then easily reconnected all the plug wires because they were labeled nice. Oh yeah, and I removed the air intake to do all of this, and laid towels on my hot engine. Was more comfy. Started her up on the first turn, ran perfect. She revs up to 4,500 in park in a flash and doesn't skip a beat. When in drive if I floor it, she now kisses 6,000rpm. Made a HUGE difference in power. Now burning 37" rubbers is no problem. Would recommend people checking this on the 5.9's.

 

Fat magnum motor. Hehe.



Air cleaner assembly removed.



Nice and clean intake. (See behind intake where cap + rotor are)



Laid down towel over hot engine, old distributor cap.



View of new rotor installed.



Old on left, new Borg Warner on right.



See corrosion on every contact inside the old cap. Allows for bad spark.



View of inside of new cap, nice terminals.



View of new belt tensioner, went out around 88K miles. (Thought I'd throw that in there)



View of installed new cap + rotor, see how I marked the wires 1-8 and C so they were easy to reinstall.



Revving up to 6K!!!



Finished. Runs great!

 

I have a 3rd gen with 9" of lift, my suggestion would be go with the 37" tires, you will want to upgrade the gearing on it. And yes, you can get 4.88's for them. When I had mine done 2 years ago, they were just coming out with them for some of the Dodge trucks but did not have any available for the 3rd gens yet, so I had to go with the 4.56's.
You can get a programmer and reprogram the computer on your truck. You take all of those factory settings off of them, that will really open these up and they will run much better.