dropped of my package boy was it heavy....new powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and my new powerstop ceramic cleanride pads....nice and shiney they look great hopefully they work as great as they look....will take pics as soon as my fiance gets home with our camera and post em up hopefully the rain stays away and ill get to it saturday....can somebody give me a proper step by step on bedding my new brakes and rotors...proper please not just a go fast stop go fast stop and let cool....proper please.......

 

nice jay u gonna paint the calipers too?

 

Sure my friend. First of all, congrats on your rotors. I have the same ones. To remove the manufacturer's glaze on the new rotors, you'll want to wipe them down with some brake or parts cleaner, and then I usually scuff them a little with some sandpaper.

*I take it you allready know how to install the rotors/pads so I'll skip that..

Also, I won't write how to bleed the brakes properly because I'm assuming you're just going to use a channel lock to compress the pistons in the calipers without opening the hydraulic system.

To properly break in your pads, it is a DIFFERENT PROCEDURE for every brand. Here is the exact way POWERSTOP wants you to break in your specific pads:

The break in procedure is critical! If you do not break in the pad properly, it can result in brake pedal pulsation and thermal shock to the rotor causing stress cracks. Break in the pads as follows: 5 aggressive stops at 50 mph to 10 mph without letting the brakes cool and try not to come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops at 30 mph to 5 mph and do not let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell some burning resin. Finally, drive around a little and let the brakes cool down. This assures proper friction deposition to prevent brake pulsation


I hope this helps bro.

 

thanks rydeslow i guess i should have went to there website i planned on using c-clamps to compress the cylinder i knew about the cleaning and i know how to do a brake job but if you have some quick pointers on this specific job as this is the first time ive done the brakes on my 04 the last was on my taurus and my 99 ram ....should i take out and repack bearings and what specific spots to grease for noiseless braking......i want the quietest brakes period im tired of the squeeling....thanks guys...and silver i dunno yet....money is tight i cant just spray paint them i need a caliper paint kit ......

 

Well sure. The brakes will be the same as your 99 pretty much, except you'll also have rear disc's obviously. I use a channel lock to compress the cylinders on the calipers because it's easier, and quicker. Usually best for calipers with not a lot of room to try and setup c-clamps. I personally never took out and repacked bearings during a brake job before, but I guess that's up to you. Anyway, best spots for adding brake grease is fairly simple. Take a look at the caliper with no pads in it, do you see where you have all the metal clips installed? Top, bottom, and one in the center? Put some grease on the top and bottom clips, where you would slide the brake pads in. The very top and bottom of the pad has little pieces that pertrude that fit into the grooves of the caliper, that is where you want to grease first. Both top and bottom, both sides(inner and outer pads). And then personally, I grease the entire back of the brake pad itself. Most will come with a metal plate on them(anti rattle plate), and I grease that, because as it vibrates it contacts the caliper.

Also, while your in there, if you want, you can re-grease your slider bolts. This is very useful, because usually(if you live somewhere, where they use salt) it will seize up the slider bolt, and cause your pads and rotor to warp as it cannot slide anymore. They are the two bolts that bolt your bracket to your caliper. Pull the boots off, fill it up with some new synthetic grease, and put the old slider bolts in and rotate them, pull them in and out, and if it's smooth your good to go. If not, save yourself some HUGE trouble now, and buy a $7 slider bolt kit from autozone. Comes with new slider bolts, (also known as caliper bolts), and boots. Make sure you fill em up with grease, they slide easily, and the boots seal them off from the elements completly.

It's hard without a picture for the grease points, but think of it like this. If you play with the caliper with pads in it, all the moving parts should have grease where they contact. (Except obviously on the pad friction surface and rotor)

*I searched the net and couldn't find any pics for grease locations.. maybe I'll make one quick

EDIT:
See this picture: http://www.akebonobrakes.com/oem/bra...ed_caliper.gif
Add grease along the "pad clip" where the new pad will contact
Add grease along the "shim" (outside of brake pad, the metal plate)
Do you see the "guide pins"? Those are the bolts/pins that go into the boots, you'll want to make sure they are greased and free moving.

 

now another thing about bedding the brakes i live in a rural area i need to drive out of my neiborhood to get to a decent road and still the speed limit out there is only 40mph will stopping at stop signs and light screw me ? or do i need to be unlawfull and bed them asap with out stopping....

 

I would just go in the 40mph zone and be a tiny bit unlawful. It's only 5 stops from 50 right? I wouldn't mess up the break in process, it has a huge affect on the performance and life of the brakes and rotors. Just my opinion though.

 

i went to a class on brakes and they showed that the slotted/cross drilled rotors were not worth the money for a truck that wasnt used for racing and that the oem cheap rotors were just as good and lasted longer.they said there was no real advantage to buying those expensive rotors but there was when it came to the pads.

 

the ones he got werent priced too much more over oe probably cheaper. i think about as highly of the rotors that dodge puts on their trucks as i do their "Infinty" stero system. pbbbbbbbbbbt. replace it asap

 

Yep slotted is good, drilled is bad. The holes are stress points where cracks can occur. Unless you are road racing, they are not really needed.