Minimum Req.?
#11
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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Said it a brazilian times, but just so's I don't have some new yahoo come on and flame me, I'll say it once more.
35's will fit with just a level kit (and will also fit a 4x2 with the proper backspaced wheels), but fitting and being functional are two different things. Just not enough room for much articulation and flex. If you only plan on doing a level kit, your truck will function much better with 33s than 35s.
If you really want to run 35s and be able to run it off-road, and you cannot afford a suspension lift, then look into a level kit with body lift combo...
35's will fit with just a level kit (and will also fit a 4x2 with the proper backspaced wheels), but fitting and being functional are two different things. Just not enough room for much articulation and flex. If you only plan on doing a level kit, your truck will function much better with 33s than 35s.
If you really want to run 35s and be able to run it off-road, and you cannot afford a suspension lift, then look into a level kit with body lift combo...
#12
i can see this is a site where post count=bigger wee wee.
FTR, im a gm guy, ive got 20k posts on gmfs.com, so im far from a noob.
side note-its Relentless, the 12 is a stylized r.
Sorry, didnt know i needed a certain post count to have an opinion.
Im running 3" spindles, spacers (which are useless after a month), 3" body lift, and 3" blocks, and i just barely squeeze my 35s in at full lock.
Yes, i know what im talking about. I am running a large offset wheel, and a wide wheel at 10", so that does add to my needs. I also retained the factory valance, and have 13.50" wide tires. so i need a little more than the average joe, but ive got waaaaaaay more than just a spacer, and i still rub valance at full lock if im on an incline.
id be interested to see a 2wd ram with just spacers running 35s. my spacers scored me all of an inch of lift.
Sweet post bro! Evidently some others on here do too, and they get wadded easily.
No sir, you are wrong.
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
The reason you want the factory wheel, or a narrower wheel is the backspacing and offset. this determines where the wheel sits in relation to the hub. the closer the wheel+tire is to the hub, the narrower the turn radius and the less lift needed to clear because the tire will turn inside the bumper instead of into it.
with a larger offset wheel (like mine) the wheel is farther outside the fender, and hits the bumper when it turns. thats why alot of guys dont run the lower valance, as it allows them to run a wider track width without rubbing.
if youre stuffing 35s you want a narrow wheel so it can squeeze inside the fenders when you turn. i could probably squeeze 37s on my truck with factory wheels, but theyd look like pizza cutters.
lol you having 1000 more posts doesnt make you any more right than me.
before you label someone a noob and start talking trash, you should make sure they dont know what theyre talking about. FTR, my original point is that it takes the same amount of time to post an answer as it does to say "why dont you search, bla bla bla " whatever. seems like the smart mouthed noob knows more than the wise *** old guys.
dont worry, i wont bother helping anyone else. this site is a joke.
FTR, im a gm guy, ive got 20k posts on gmfs.com, so im far from a noob.
side note-its Relentless, the 12 is a stylized r.
Im running 3" spindles, spacers (which are useless after a month), 3" body lift, and 3" blocks, and i just barely squeeze my 35s in at full lock.
Yes, i know what im talking about. I am running a large offset wheel, and a wide wheel at 10", so that does add to my needs. I also retained the factory valance, and have 13.50" wide tires. so i need a little more than the average joe, but ive got waaaaaaay more than just a spacer, and i still rub valance at full lock if im on an incline.
id be interested to see a 2wd ram with just spacers running 35s. my spacers scored me all of an inch of lift.
Sweet post bro! Evidently some others on here do too, and they get wadded easily.
Now, Ill be corrected if Im wrong, but..........
You called someone out for not answering a question, yet you answer it incorrectly? From what Ive read on here, the 2wd's have VERY little issues with running 35's while leveled. Only the beefiest of treads rub slightly, reportedly. Also, you suggest running the stock wheels, why? Wouldnt the width needed for a 35in tire be riding the limit for what a 8in rim can take? (if he's running 17's, we dont know). I know 305's are about the limit for the stockers, I know you don't wanna go much narrower than that, it'll look kinda funny I'd think
You called someone out for not answering a question, yet you answer it incorrectly? From what Ive read on here, the 2wd's have VERY little issues with running 35's while leveled. Only the beefiest of treads rub slightly, reportedly. Also, you suggest running the stock wheels, why? Wouldnt the width needed for a 35in tire be riding the limit for what a 8in rim can take? (if he's running 17's, we dont know). I know 305's are about the limit for the stockers, I know you don't wanna go much narrower than that, it'll look kinda funny I'd think
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
The reason you want the factory wheel, or a narrower wheel is the backspacing and offset. this determines where the wheel sits in relation to the hub. the closer the wheel+tire is to the hub, the narrower the turn radius and the less lift needed to clear because the tire will turn inside the bumper instead of into it.
with a larger offset wheel (like mine) the wheel is farther outside the fender, and hits the bumper when it turns. thats why alot of guys dont run the lower valance, as it allows them to run a wider track width without rubbing.
if youre stuffing 35s you want a narrow wheel so it can squeeze inside the fenders when you turn. i could probably squeeze 37s on my truck with factory wheels, but theyd look like pizza cutters.
before you label someone a noob and start talking trash, you should make sure they dont know what theyre talking about. FTR, my original point is that it takes the same amount of time to post an answer as it does to say "why dont you search, bla bla bla " whatever. seems like the smart mouthed noob knows more than the wise *** old guys.
dont worry, i wont bother helping anyone else. this site is a joke.
#13
Said it a brazilian times, but just so's I don't have some new yahoo come on and flame me, I'll say it once more.
35's will fit with just a level kit (and will also fit a 4x2 with the proper backspaced wheels), but fitting and being functional are two different things. Just not enough room for much articulation and flex. If you only plan on doing a level kit, your truck will function much better with 33s than 35s.
If you really want to run 35s and be able to run it off-road, and you cannot afford a suspension lift, then look into a level kit with body lift combo...
35's will fit with just a level kit (and will also fit a 4x2 with the proper backspaced wheels), but fitting and being functional are two different things. Just not enough room for much articulation and flex. If you only plan on doing a level kit, your truck will function much better with 33s than 35s.
If you really want to run 35s and be able to run it off-road, and you cannot afford a suspension lift, then look into a level kit with body lift combo...
#14
#15
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
Posts: 24,686
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This be true, since I've only worked on the suspension of two coil over front Dodges, I tend to base my responses on the torsion bar front trucks. But my point was that I don't really think 35s on just a level kit should be done, so it holds true for all the 3rd Gen 1500s (except the Mega guys)...
#17
#18
and they fit but what good are they? anything bigger than a candybar wrapper is gonna send it flying through the inner fender.
how to properly execute 35s
#19
id be interested to see a 2wd ram with just spacers running 35s. my spacers scored me all of an inch of lift.