Minimum Req.?
#21
12-22-2009, 06:36 PM
Record Breaker
Well, Elentless, since it doesn't seem to have an "R" 
. You have called out members of the website in order to attract attention to yourself, which you have successfully done. You can have 3 million posts on your GM forum. GM is not the same as Dodge - two different companies. Thanks for trying to impress though. Dog answered the OP's question with a fine answer because many topics on this forum are repeated very often. Now, I need to apologize to the OP for ruining his thread by having this side distraction. If you find the site as a joke, I suggest you return to your GM website. I would use the infamous "troll spray", but I don't think you deserve that 
. We get some of you guys trolling through the forums every now and then. But I know who to call...
. You have called out members of the website in order to attract attention to yourself, which you have successfully done. You can have 3 million posts on your GM forum. GM is not the same as Dodge - two different companies. Thanks for trying to impress though. Dog answered the OP's question with a fine answer because many topics on this forum are repeated very often. Now, I need to apologize to the OP for ruining his thread by having this side distraction. If you find the site as a joke, I suggest you return to your GM website. I would use the infamous "troll spray", but I don't think you deserve that . We get some of you guys trolling through the forums every now and then. But I know who to call...
Last edited by 02Steve1990; 12-22-2009 at 06:59 PM.
#22
12-22-2009, 06:46 PM
i can see this is a site where post count=bigger wee wee. 
FTR, im a gm guy, ive got 20k posts on gmfs.com, so im far from a noob.
side note-its Relentless, the 12 is a stylized r.
Sorry, didnt know i needed a certain post count to have an opinion.
Im running 3" spindles, spacers (which are useless after a month), 3" body lift, and 3" blocks, and i just barely squeeze my 35s in at full lock.
Yes, i know what im talking about. I am running a large offset wheel, and a wide wheel at 10", so that does add to my needs. I also retained the factory valance, and have 13.50" wide tires. so i need a little more than the average joe, but ive got waaaaaaay more than just a spacer, and i still rub valance at full lock if im on an incline.
id be interested to see a 2wd ram with just spacers running 35s. my spacers scored me all of an inch of lift.
Sweet post bro! Evidently some others on here do too, and they get wadded easily.
No sir, you are wrong.
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
The reason you want the factory wheel, or a narrower wheel is the backspacing and offset. this determines where the wheel sits in relation to the hub. the closer the wheel+tire is to the hub, the narrower the turn radius and the less lift needed to clear because the tire will turn inside the bumper instead of into it.
with a larger offset wheel (like mine) the wheel is farther outside the fender, and hits the bumper when it turns. thats why alot of guys dont run the lower valance, as it allows them to run a wider track width without rubbing.
if youre stuffing 35s you want a narrow wheel so it can squeeze inside the fenders when you turn. i could probably squeeze 37s on my truck with factory wheels, but theyd look like pizza cutters.
lol you having 1000 more posts doesnt make you any more right than me.
before you label someone a noob and start talking trash, you should make sure they dont know what theyre talking about. FTR, my original point is that it takes the same amount of time to post an answer as it does to say "why dont you search, bla bla bla " whatever. seems like the smart mouthed noob knows more than the wise *** old guys.
dont worry, i wont bother helping anyone else. this site is a joke.
FTR, im a gm guy, ive got 20k posts on gmfs.com, so im far from a noob.
side note-its Relentless, the 12 is a stylized r.
Sorry, didnt know i needed a certain post count to have an opinion.
Im running 3" spindles, spacers (which are useless after a month), 3" body lift, and 3" blocks, and i just barely squeeze my 35s in at full lock.
Yes, i know what im talking about. I am running a large offset wheel, and a wide wheel at 10", so that does add to my needs. I also retained the factory valance, and have 13.50" wide tires. so i need a little more than the average joe, but ive got waaaaaaay more than just a spacer, and i still rub valance at full lock if im on an incline.
id be interested to see a 2wd ram with just spacers running 35s. my spacers scored me all of an inch of lift.
Sweet post bro! Evidently some others on here do too, and they get wadded easily.
No sir, you are wrong.
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
The reason you want the factory wheel, or a narrower wheel is the backspacing and offset. this determines where the wheel sits in relation to the hub. the closer the wheel+tire is to the hub, the narrower the turn radius and the less lift needed to clear because the tire will turn inside the bumper instead of into it.
with a larger offset wheel (like mine) the wheel is farther outside the fender, and hits the bumper when it turns. thats why alot of guys dont run the lower valance, as it allows them to run a wider track width without rubbing.
if youre stuffing 35s you want a narrow wheel so it can squeeze inside the fenders when you turn. i could probably squeeze 37s on my truck with factory wheels, but theyd look like pizza cutters.
lol you having 1000 more posts doesnt make you any more right than me.
before you label someone a noob and start talking trash, you should make sure they dont know what theyre talking about. FTR, my original point is that it takes the same amount of time to post an answer as it does to say "why dont you search, bla bla bla " whatever. seems like the smart mouthed noob knows more than the wise *** old guys.
dont worry, i wont bother helping anyone else. this site is a joke.
Wow Somebody is trying really hard to show off there internet muscle's...It also proves that you don't have a life and like to argue with ppl online..
Who cares if you have over 20k in post count over at gmfs.com...everybody has their own opinion. You don't have to get all butt hurt b/c somebody told you to search for an question that has already been answered in the past...and those posts could have more valuable info in them that you may or may not get from this post
#23
12-22-2009, 06:54 PM
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Haha, there hasn't been this much fire on DF since Ive been on here!
Relentless, I, personally, stand corrected. Didnt expect it to be by you, admittedly, but I just had to be wrong somewhere in there.
Im not backpeddling here, just admitting my faults an apologizing for throwing my worthless .02. Im here to learn, and obviously I got a lot to do!
But seriously though, I thought the first number had to do with the width, and the second the height? When I had my mustang, I went from a 245/45 in the rear to a 275/45, the tire got wider, not taller? Ah, Ill figure it out one day
EDIT: lol, I know when talking about sizes in these terms ex. 33x12.50.17 , The first is the height, second width, third rim size.....
Relentless, I, personally, stand corrected. Didnt expect it to be by you, admittedly, but I just had to be wrong somewhere in there.
Im not backpeddling here, just admitting my faults an apologizing for throwing my worthless .02. Im here to learn, and obviously I got a lot to do!
But seriously though, I thought the first number had to do with the width, and the second the height? When I had my mustang, I went from a 245/45 in the rear to a 275/45, the tire got wider, not taller? Ah, Ill figure it out one day
EDIT: lol, I know when talking about sizes in these terms ex. 33x12.50.17 , The first is the height, second width, third rim size.....
Last edited by 4.7Ram5.7Rango; 12-22-2009 at 06:58 PM.
#24
12-22-2009, 07:00 PM
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#25
12-22-2009, 07:04 PM
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In your tire example, you went from a roughly nine inch wide tire to a roughly ten inch wide tire. You may have gained half an inch of height. It's important to remember that those numbers are based on some imaginary curb weight, so they will measure out differently on your truck than on a Honda civic. And every manufacturer bases their numbers on a seemingly different curb weight.
#26
12-22-2009, 07:27 PM
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No sir, you are wrong.
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
First, 305 is the height of the tire, not the width. rim size has nothing to do with what height of tire it can handle. 305 is roughly a 33" tire. (most tires dont measure true though, my pro comp xat that says 35 on the side only measure 33" tread to tread) you can run a 15x7 on a 38" tire if you wanted, but thats irrelevant. (Remember the 90s?) the width is what matters.
factory rims are 17x8 and 20x9. either of those can handle an 12.50 wide tire just fine. i would go at least x10 if youre running a 13.50 or larger, but chances are if youre trying to get away just running a spacer, youre not.
