step 45) is permatex the same as RTV sealant?

 

I know guys like the HOAT but I have no issues with the green stuff.

Once you have everything taken apart like that, the only thing holding the chain on is the oil pump which can easily be removed. I havent changed mine because a chain isnt as bad as a belt and can go a lot longer. On top of that, I just flipped 69k today so I wont need a chain for a while.

THX man. We can always try to make a calender out of this too!!

1) Ive never tried a universal puller. But I would assume there are some out there that will fit. As long as they are a 3 jaw puller I dont seek why not but you may still need to put the 6" extention inside the crank snout to be able to push against to remove the damper. They do make a specific Miller tool that you can put in the snout also. But why buy one when you already have a 6" extention, expecially when most guys are only going to change the cam once.

2) You will have to email him and talk to him about that. I cant give prices for someone else because his may change in general or just for you. If I put that here, then next person will read it and hopefully this thread will be here for a long time and that number wont get changed here.

3) This was one of the things I was worried about also before I started changing cams. I talked with several installers and they all said out of all of thier swap they never not once had a cam fall but at the same time didnt leave the cam out for an extended period ot time. So I go ahead and lube up my new cam and sit it to the side, spin my old one, pull it out and quickly put the new one back in. It takes all of a few minutes.

Its not hard man. Hell I though the body lift was going to be hard also. The bad thing I have is that I have no one to help me do anything so I have to make sure Ive got everything I need to be able to do it all by myself. If I can do it, you can do it.

75 - 6.1 cam
85 - 6.1 springs, rods, cam and crank bolt
50 - syn oil & filter

70 to rent to damper puller but you get that back

so overall you are looking at 200-250. ive seen 6.1 cams go as low as 50 bux

close enough and will work. I didnt have any permatex but I did have RTV and I never had any issues with my first cam. In fact it took a minute to pull the old stuff off.

 

This has to be (like everyone said already) the most intricate and detailed write-up I have yet to see. Your really making me wanna save up the money for a cam now. Plus I have a buddy who can pretty much rebuild an engine in his sleep and he could make it easier for a tard like myself. lol I bet there's a cam write-up in the 2nd gen section for my 5.9.

 

Let me rephrase that. I'm doing a cam as my next mod (as soon as i can get some time off work). I just need to figure out which cam i want and how to tune it, but i'll start a new thread here shortly with all those questions.

Weed, how long did your first swap take? I have air tools lol

 

The only thing I use my air tools for were the cam bolt and crank bolt. My first took all weekend but a lot of that time was used changing the springs on the heads and making sure I didnt loose any keepers. If you pull the heads you will need head bolts but IMO is faster.

This cam was started about 10am and done about 6pm.

My tuner is a DSP U7137 and Marty at KRC Performance is doing my tunes. Everyone he has written so far has been good. If you talk to him, tell him I sent you. I do not have a AFR gauge yet but it is coming and once I get that my tunes can be more aggressive. But even now I can tell a difference.

 

Yah after reading this write up it cleared up all the little questions I had. I have been lookin into it a bit here and a bit there and I think I narrowed it down to a couple cams but theres still questions for sure so Ill be all over your thread like a fat kid on cake. This will deffinitely be my next mod since school is gonna take all my money saved for the lift kit.

Thanks again weed for the write up.. awesome.. Ill get on dodge talk and msg that guy about the tool soon.

 

Great write up, but I still don't know if I want to try this myself. Also, I don't really get the whole part about the compression tester and filling the cylinders with air, I understand why your doing it but I guess I don't understand the guts of the engine that well. I'll be back in here asking questions when it comes time to actually do it.

And where did you get the new valve keepers, I can't find them anywhere.
Edit-Are those the same as a Valve Spring Retainer Lock? That's the closest thing I found on the mopar website.

On a side note, what kind of gains did you get with the 6.1 cam? Especially with something like a superchips tuner?

 

well i'll be honest, im a little fuzzy on the compression tool myself. i understand the purpose of it (fills the cylindars with air to keep the valves from falling in) but i guess im not sure how the tool works.

 

Ok, you have the right idea for using the compression tester to fill the cylinders with air to make sure the valve doesnt drop. With the compression tester I have there is the gauge itself, the hose and an adapter. In our case with doing a cam swap you will not need the gauge. However, in the hose there is a valve stem that acts as a check valve. You will need to remove that valve stem. Then screw the adapter on the hose and into the spark plug hole (with no valve stem in the hose). Then connect the other end of the hose to the air line from your air tank/compressor. This will allow air from the tank to go through the hose and into the cylinder and fill it to keep the valve up.

 

I put a Hemi in a Dakota Quad-and wanted to put a bigger cam in it.But I thought I would have to remove the heads.Now thanks to this write up.I'm searching for the parts to do it.Thanks...