Yeah Oklahemi, I have seen that one too. Not too sure about his though.

 

I just glanced over the thread but here's my opinion...Don't buy from airbagit.com...they are the Harbor Freight of the truck customization seen. Buy good parts...you won't regret it. I put hydraulic hose as air line on every truck I do...it is fool proof when used with good fittings. You won't have any leaks or have to worry about a line blowing. Also about the bag sweat spot...put Slam Specialties Re-8's on it front and back...why there is a designated right height...the other heights arent that much different of a ride...The suspension locked out is stiff...but it's no stiffer than a stock riding vehicle. I've driven my truck at all height...4 inches is ride height...I get 14 inches of travel...therefore the bag isnt extended very much at my ride height...yet I rarely ever bottom out...cant be that spungy...if the suspension isn't traveling 4 inches on a 5200lb truck...I only use Slam Specialties bags...as they are designed for bagged trucks...firestone/contitech's/airlift were originally designed for air assit setups. I say bag it...and enjoy it. Good luck with your build man.

 

Hello Weed,
if I understand you right, you want the truck to kneel when you park and raised higher than stock while normally running. So if you used 4" lifted spindles in the front you would have 4" lift (plus tire size) at what would be considered normal running height with the bags loaded for what is said to be the Sweet spot. Now dump the bags to drop it when you park it. In the rear remove a spring or two (mono spring?) and bag the rear. Set up your tank and compressor with the controls you desire and you got. A kneeling truck with a higher than stock running height.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Lif...Q5fAccessories

Good luck..

 

Yeah but I dont need more spindles as I already have some one the truck. ive got a set of RC 3" spindles on there with CST 3" springs and a 1" coil spacer. So I will just take out the springs and spacers and leave the spindles as thier overall physical length is the same as OEM but the hub is just placed lower in the spindle.

I am with you on removing 2 leafs and bagging the rear.

I agree with setting the trucks height and adjusting the bump stops right above the tires so when it sits it is just above them. Since Im not tucking or laying, i have no need to go lower. But at that height I am assuming the bags will be deflated OR i can set the bag positioning lower but use the bump stops to hold me up and at the same time keep a little air in the bags so there is some softness to it.

However, what I do not know yet is this. I see builds where guys have to raise the UCA and LCA to drop the truck and that makes sense. Will I have to lower mine so i can raise and still keep good alignment and geometry?

 

i don't think it is a problem since you are basically keeping the geometry stock by using the spindles. I was guessing the bags would only be dumped when parked.

 

no weed u wont need to touch any of that... just plate the bottom arm and then compress bag and weld top mount at the desired drop hieght

 

Ok, THX

Let me repeat this back so I make sure I understand. I would pull the springs out and TIG weld a plate over the LCA spring bucket and mount the bag to it or if needed a bag bucket. Then put the deflated bag in place and mount the top plate to the bag and where ever it sits is where my top plate gets welded right? So I could tack it, take the bag out and then finished the weld for the top plate right?

 

Next question would be, How are the shocks mounted? This is starting to look so clean that I might go this route myself only using drop spindles to stay low instead of lifting. Graft a 09 coil spring rear frame section on and bag that to boot. This could be a very clean setup.

 

yah man thats as easy as the front is..... u dont need to tig tho thats alot extra time with really no benefit....

An for the guy that wants to lower it u would plate the lower control arm as low as possible the the upper mount would get welded to the frame as high as possible. basiclay collapse the bag jack the lower control arm up as high as u can go take the braket in the remove the bag and weld it up.. Make sure u put good tacks so u can cycle the suspention and check clearence and biending in both cases then weld it all up. Foe clearens u wanna be able to stick ur hand in between the bag and whatever up to your middle nuckles when inflated. I would once again suggest slam specialties
re-7 they are good size or even dominator 2600. re-8 might be to big

 

also if u just plan to lower it with bags without the up and down u can run shraider valves, get them in the bathroon section of home depot and u can fill the bags like ur tire and as long as there is no leaks u can drive like that forever. And bag the front for under 300$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$