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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Unperfected
he is lifted so no bag will go from the upper spring pocket to the lower arm and have a good ride.... the bag would be at almost max lift. but for lowering it u may be right that u could bolt it to the spring pocket.

What i was saying is if its bolted to the side of the frame the bolts would have a good chance to get sheered off under load. Even high grade bolt dont have the best sheer load rating.

And yes sorry that link is heavy duty but i would piece on together with 2x2 square tube lower with bag on bar and then the 1 1/2 round up top. it will be plenty strong.

And yes the last thing we need is internet bs like on alot of sites.
I get what you're saying about the upper mount. That would be scary bolted to the frame. I was thinking the upper plates that the Chevys use, to cap off the inside of the upper pocket.

I like that idea of plating the lower bar. Might have to try that.

Yeah, internet matches are retarded. Did I read you have a Colorado front end blazer? PM me a link. I almost tackled that job myself at my last shop.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:46 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Fathead_03
I get what you're saying about the upper mount. That would be scary bolted to the frame. I was thinking the upper plates that the Chevys use, to cap off the inside of the upper pocket.

I like that idea of plating the lower bar. Might have to try that.

Yeah, internet matches are retarded. Did I read you have a Colorado front end blazer? PM me a link. I almost tackled that job myself at my last shop.
yah it does...
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f143/b...81/index2.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodgefo...s-club-92.html
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Fathead_03
Second. You can weld a bottom plate or cup in, but DO NOT weld the top in. In the top, I would suggest bolting the top plate on, as you will need to mount the bag to the upper plate, and also have the fittings in the top. Hard to access them through a very small bolt hole if you have a leak. You could weld it in, if you cut the top off the stock shock mount to access it. Make sure you have access holes to get to the lower bag bolts through the LCA too.

Your truck could cruise around at the height you are now, then drop about 7" when you need to, in theory. If the inflated height of your bags aren't as tall as your coils, then you could use cups to help get the added height. You shouldn't need to modify the control arm mounts as you will have the same setup as now, which I assume you are aligned at, only with bags instead of coils.
I would definately weld plates on top of the LCA spring buckets because I would want a true and flat surface so I know there would be no rubbing. I understand about cutting out the LCA spring bucket or drilling aligned holes in the plate and bucket so you can get to the bag mounts incase you need to change them out.

I understand about setting the height of the bag and plates to be about the same as the current spring to get the same height. That makes sense. THX. I would certainly use the valves as a temp setup just to make sure my height is where I want it to be.

Im fairly certain I would rather weld the top plates in though. Just seems to be stronger to to be though.

Originally Posted by Unperfected
secound, on the ram you DO NOT want to just bolt the upper mount on. They will be on the side of the frame and there is a real good chance that the bolts could sheer off. I have had to fix a few truck that have done that. And also ur frame will NOT have enough meet to just bolt it too. U could pull the bolts right threw the frame. Have seen that done too.
Yeah, even with bolts being grade 8 or more and torqued down good, with them having constant pressure and tension on them I eventually would think they would fail.

Originally Posted by Unperfected
he is lifted so no bag will go from the upper spring pocket to the lower arm and have a good ride.... the bag would be at almost max lift. but for lowering it u may be right that u could bolt it to the spring pocket.

What i was saying is if its bolted to the side of the frame the bolts would have a good chance to get sheered off under load. Even high grade bolt dont have the best sheer load rating.

And yes sorry that link is heavy duty but i would piece on together with 2x2 square tube lower with bag on bar and then the 1 1/2 round up top. it will be plenty strong.
Well I wont be tucking rims/tires so let me say this. To clear what I have now I needed 4" above stock height which I will have if I taken out my springs. The max extended height of the Slambag RE-8's is right at 10"

So if my coil spring is 14" overall then I know I would have keep that same length if I wanted the same height but being I would weld plates over the LCA coil bucket, that would take some of that 14" also. From my bottom plate I could measure 10" up and figure where to mount my top plate and make sure I have clearance for the bag.

But now that I think of it, I need to maintain atleast the 4" of suspenion to clear the tires (if I keep these and cant sell them) so I cant still set the bags on the LCAs and use the bump stops to control my drop or use 3" to 3.5" bag cups mounted on top of the plate which would be on top of them LCA bucket.

Right?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
I would definately weld plates on top of the LCA spring buckets because I would want a true and flat surface so I know there would be no rubbing. I understand about cutting out the LCA spring bucket or drilling aligned holes in the plate and bucket so you can get to the bag mounts incase you need to change them out.

I understand about setting the height of the bag and plates to be about the same as the current spring to get the same height. That makes sense. THX. I would certainly use the valves as a temp setup just to make sure my height is where I want it to be.

Im fairly certain I would rather weld the top plates in though. Just seems to be stronger to to be though.



Yeah, even with bolts being grade 8 or more and torqued down good, with them having constant pressure and tension on them I eventually would think they would fail.



Well I wont be tucking rims/tires so let me say this. To clear what I have now I needed 4" above stock height which I will have if I taken out my springs. The max extended height of the Slambag RE-8's is right at 10"

So if my coil spring is 14" overall then I know I would have keep that same length if I wanted the same height but being I would weld plates over the LCA coil bucket, that would take some of that 14" also. From my bottom plate I could measure 10" up and figure where to mount my top plate and make sure I have clearance for the bag.

But now that I think of it, I need to maintain atleast the 4" of suspenion to clear the tires (if I keep these and cant sell them) so I cant still set the bags on the LCAs and use the bump stops to control my drop or use 3" to 3.5" bag cups mounted on top of the plate which would be on top of them LCA bucket.

Right?
sorry man litlle sleep = not really getting what your saying....

so once again its as simple as this.....
-weld a plate to the lca....
- next set your front suspention at the lowest hight you want....
- colapse the bag all the way....
- bolt it to the top bag plate...
-make sure the bag has clearence....
- trace the bag out on the lca plate....
-find that centre...
- drill hole and mount bag to lca..
-tack upper plate in solid with bag collapsed...
- cycle the suspentioon and make sure u have around 3/4" all the way around it when inflated....
-remove bag and weld in gussets and upper bracket...
- put bag back in and cycle suspention to check once again.....
-hook up air managment and done...


Now your gonna use your bag as the bump stop, no need for bump stop. When at ride hight with an re-7 (once again an re-8 would prob be to big up front) it should give u a 5-6" lift at confortable ride hight. if you want less set your lower ride high lower or do not colapse the bag all the way when tacking in the upper mount. It really is easy if you follow these steps.. just make sure u have clearance
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:10 PM
  #125  
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the end result will look similar to the rams in the link i post a while back beside ur upper mount will be alot lower then theres but same design
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #126  
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Unperfected is spot on with this short and to the point description. Slam Specialties have built in bump stops, which is nice too. You could run another one after you figure out exactly where you want it though.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 08:08 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Fathead_03
Unperfected is spot on with this short and to the point description. Slam Specialties have built in bump stops, which is nice too. You could run another one after you figure out exactly where you want it though.
Im not understanding this. I mean I understand about Slam having the built in bump stops. Im not understanding your last sentence.

Also, can someone please explain gussets?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 08:27 AM
  #128  
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Weed,
Gussets, are braces welded in for increase strenght. I follow what they are saying but I think it is being missed that you already have 3" spindles installed. All I see you need is a bag to replace your current spring and when you dump the bag the truck will be lowered to it's kneeling position. Do you intend to drive it while it is in it's lowered position?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by RedTruck-VA
Weed,
Gussets, are braces welded in for increase strenght. I follow what they are saying but I think it is being missed that you already have 3" spindles installed. All I see you need is a bag to replace your current spring and when you dump the bag the truck will be lowered to it's kneeling position. Do you intend to drive it while it is in it's lowered position?

I got you on the gusset. I kinda thought thats what it was (from looking at other pics) but wasnt sure.

But yes I am keeping my spindle and losing the springs for bags. I would like to say i would drive it at stock or slightly lowered height but IDK. I understand the alignment wont be right at a lowered height, right?

If I could sell my current rims and tires I would get more narrow tires and different offset/backspacing rims.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 01:50 PM
  #130  
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as stated before its not just as simple as bolting in a bag where the spring was because that would mean the bag would have to be completely inflated to get lift. So thats y u colapse the bag and weld the upper mount to the frame..

Guys i cant really make the description and simpler. Its done the same way when lowering and lifting, beside ur gonna set the upper mount in at different spots, the lower u are the higher the mount will be.

check out forums guys and i also posted links to a few goo ram project threads
 
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