Need advice and info asap on my dodge plz
So i had a squeaking noise and it turns out to be both tie rods and 2 ball joints need replaced on my front left!!!!!!! like where did this come from? So the dealership wants 750 bucks for the job, or 365 for just the parts, i found the parts for 200 at an auto parts store. My question is do the ball joints need pressed to get them out? do i need a certain tool? i just cant afford 750 dollars right now as bein a college student and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. the dodge is an 2006 model 1500
You need a hydraulic press... or a solid axle ball joint tool. I'd go with the hydraulic press... I've had them take 12 tons or more to get them to pop out. You may need circlip pliers as well... I don't remember if the lower ball joint is retained with a circlip. There is also a special tool (#8677) that is used to unseat the balljoints from the knuckles . Don't hit the knuckle with a hammer, you can damage it and have a catastrophic failure down the road.
You definitely want to get an alignment when you are done... so plan on that as well.
You definitely want to get an alignment when you are done... so plan on that as well.
Remember, you'll still need an alignment after your done.
When taking the tierod off, you'll want to put a piece of masking tape on the inner arm with a vertical line so to measure off of. Don't use a thick marker or a magnum44...lol use a pencil tip. You'll measure from that point to the center of the balljoint. Take your time and measure good. When you install the new tierod, you'll measure off the masking tape line to the center of the new balljoint and then tighten the jamnut back down. I did both sides of my Stratus and put 40kmi with no alignment, no tire wear and tracked straight as an arrow. Did my exploder the same way and it wasn't far off at all when i had it aligned. That will get you by for the time being without an alignment if needed, but regardless, that's how i do all my installs.
Counting threads is not accurate, especially if the newer made arm is longer or shorter.
using the rent-a-tool for the balljoints may be a bit difficult but doable.
Remember, you'll still need an alignment after your done.
When taking the tierod off, you'll want to put a piece of masking tape on the inner arm with a vertical line so to measure off of. Don't use a thick marker or a magnum44...lol use a pencil tip. You'll measure from that point to the center of the balljoint. Take your time and measure good. When you install the new tierod, you'll measure off the masking tape line to the center of the new balljoint and then tighten the jamnut back down. I did both sides of my Stratus and put 40kmi with no alignment, no tire wear and tracked straight as an arrow. Did my exploder the same way and it wasn't far off at all when i had it aligned. That will get you by for the time being without an alignment if needed, but regardless, that's how i do all my installs.
Counting threads is not accurate, especially if the newer made arm is longer or shorter.
Remember, you'll still need an alignment after your done.
When taking the tierod off, you'll want to put a piece of masking tape on the inner arm with a vertical line so to measure off of. Don't use a thick marker or a magnum44...lol use a pencil tip. You'll measure from that point to the center of the balljoint. Take your time and measure good. When you install the new tierod, you'll measure off the masking tape line to the center of the new balljoint and then tighten the jamnut back down. I did both sides of my Stratus and put 40kmi with no alignment, no tire wear and tracked straight as an arrow. Did my exploder the same way and it wasn't far off at all when i had it aligned. That will get you by for the time being without an alignment if needed, but regardless, that's how i do all my installs.
Counting threads is not accurate, especially if the newer made arm is longer or shorter.
Like they said it is a doable job, could be labor intensive, I would recomend taking pictures before you start of everything your going to be removing, what goes where and how...etc. You can also use the other side as refrence too
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so it ball joints a common problem? the truck is offroad alot not muddin but for hunting, could that cause it to go bad? or mainly just wear and tear, the truck only has 50k miles on it
The ball joints on these trucks IMO suck. When you get new ones make sure you get ones that have a zerk fitting on them so you can keep them greased up. The factory puts non serviceable joints on the trucks so you come back to them and pay to have them replaced. Yes, this is a common problem with these trucks.
The ball joints on these trucks IMO suck. When you get new ones make sure you get ones that have a zerk fitting on them so you can keep them greased up. The factory puts non serviceable joints on the trucks so you come back to them and pay to have them replaced. Yes, this is a common problem with these trucks.







