Sequence to Eliminate Chime
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,273
Likes: 1
From: Pierce County, Wa
finally found the diagram for the door ajar.
I feel safer playing with this wire rather than up by the instrument panel. I might give this a try later today. Hopefully I'll get my shocks put on today without a problem..we'll see I guess. Then I can think about this.
I feel safer playing with this wire rather than up by the instrument panel. I might give this a try later today. Hopefully I'll get my shocks put on today without a problem..we'll see I guess. Then I can think about this.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,273
Likes: 1
From: Pierce County, Wa
Well, Matt, you gotta pair of scissors handy?? Cuz if so, keep reading...
Alright boys, after dwelling through the service manual, I have taken the plunge and readied my scissors for action.
1). Lets proceed to remove the drivers side door panel. This involves removing the screw at the upper right where you would normally put a tweeter at, then removing two screws on the bottom side of the panel, and finally removing the door handle which requires pulling up on the handle, locating the 10mm bolt, and unscrew it outta there.
2). After all the screws are out, lift straight up on the panel (watch out for the door lock **** and move it out of the way if you need to) and then reach down over the top and unplug the 2 wire harnesses that work the power module in the arm rest. Once the harnesses are unplugged, wiggle the panel up and off the door and set it aside.
3). You'll be looking at a mass of white plastic overlapping the inside of the door. Start peeling the plastic back with the black adhesive from one of the left corners of the door. You'll see the trail of 4 wires going to your door latch assembly. The wire our scissors want to do battle with is in that group.
4). Once you get enough plastic peeled back to comfortably start snipping, locate and isolate the black wire with the purple tracer stripe. It's hard to see in the pictures cuz it was dark and I was cold, but trust me, it's there. It will be the darkest colored wire.
5). After locating the black wire, prepare for battle as you strike the blade of your scissors against that rude and hateful wire. Now, tape it up and stow away to your hearts content.
6). Wait! Don't put that panel back on yet. Go find your keys and, while keeping the door open, slide that badboy into the ignition and enjoy the sounds of silence. If you are still experiencing that ungodly noise, then, you f'ed up so get a wirenut and splice it back together. Then go cut the wire I told you to cut in the first place.
7). Install panel in reverse order, also that handle can be a turd to get lined back up, but don't fear you will prevail.
Oh and this doesn't throw any codes. This was tested on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 4X4 SLT Mfg Date 01/04. Also, you won't need to have as much slack as what's pictured, I only did that so i would have room to patch the wire if I ever needed to commit audible suicide. Also, I wasnt sure which wire at the time, it was either that one or the other purple one. Cutting either one should yieldthe same result but I cut the black(er) one. I used a volt sensor to ensure that I wasn't going to cut a wire going to the lock.
Alright boys, after dwelling through the service manual, I have taken the plunge and readied my scissors for action.
1). Lets proceed to remove the drivers side door panel. This involves removing the screw at the upper right where you would normally put a tweeter at, then removing two screws on the bottom side of the panel, and finally removing the door handle which requires pulling up on the handle, locating the 10mm bolt, and unscrew it outta there.
2). After all the screws are out, lift straight up on the panel (watch out for the door lock **** and move it out of the way if you need to) and then reach down over the top and unplug the 2 wire harnesses that work the power module in the arm rest. Once the harnesses are unplugged, wiggle the panel up and off the door and set it aside.
3). You'll be looking at a mass of white plastic overlapping the inside of the door. Start peeling the plastic back with the black adhesive from one of the left corners of the door. You'll see the trail of 4 wires going to your door latch assembly. The wire our scissors want to do battle with is in that group.
4). Once you get enough plastic peeled back to comfortably start snipping, locate and isolate the black wire with the purple tracer stripe. It's hard to see in the pictures cuz it was dark and I was cold, but trust me, it's there. It will be the darkest colored wire.
5). After locating the black wire, prepare for battle as you strike the blade of your scissors against that rude and hateful wire. Now, tape it up and stow away to your hearts content.
6). Wait! Don't put that panel back on yet. Go find your keys and, while keeping the door open, slide that badboy into the ignition and enjoy the sounds of silence. If you are still experiencing that ungodly noise, then, you f'ed up so get a wirenut and splice it back together. Then go cut the wire I told you to cut in the first place.
7). Install panel in reverse order, also that handle can be a turd to get lined back up, but don't fear you will prevail.
Oh and this doesn't throw any codes. This was tested on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 4X4 SLT Mfg Date 01/04. Also, you won't need to have as much slack as what's pictured, I only did that so i would have room to patch the wire if I ever needed to commit audible suicide. Also, I wasnt sure which wire at the time, it was either that one or the other purple one. Cutting either one should yieldthe same result but I cut the black(er) one. I used a volt sensor to ensure that I wasn't going to cut a wire going to the lock.
Champion
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,732
Likes: 1
From: La Union, Philippines
Joe! you are da Man...
Great write up.
Mine would even be easier as it is a SXT model with hand crank windows and no elocks or for that matter, nothing else in the door. So if it ain't going be a challenge I'll go after the ignition switch. Should have more wires and a better chance of really screwing up.
Great write up.
Mine would even be easier as it is a SXT model with hand crank windows and no elocks or for that matter, nothing else in the door. So if it ain't going be a challenge I'll go after the ignition switch. Should have more wires and a better chance of really screwing up.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,273
Likes: 1
From: Pierce County, Wa
HAHA thats the spirit! I was going to do that, then after peekin under the steering wheel and looking at all those various connectors scattered EVERYWHERE, then seeing only 4 wires in the door, haha, easy choice for me
Too cold to get the ambition to trace out those wires and match up connectors 
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,273
Likes: 1
From: Pierce County, Wa
Sounds good man. I know you have an 07 so I'm not sure if there will be a difference in the door scheme such as different wires or colors. It's a 3rd gen though, so should be identical if not very similar.
Just to clarify for everyone, this ONLY removes the chimes for the "door ajar" while the drivers side door is open and also the "key-in-ingintion" for when the drivers side door is open. It will also remove the "door ajar" light/icon on the instrument cluster when ONLY the DRIVERS SIDE door is open. The chimes and icon/light will still operate on the other doors unless you cut those wires too.
Just to clarify for everyone, this ONLY removes the chimes for the "door ajar" while the drivers side door is open and also the "key-in-ingintion" for when the drivers side door is open. It will also remove the "door ajar" light/icon on the instrument cluster when ONLY the DRIVERS SIDE door is open. The chimes and icon/light will still operate on the other doors unless you cut those wires too.