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Advice on replacing ball joints/tie rods

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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
Well as for that link above, Im fairly certain I will be making my own UCA and LCA in the spring or summer. If I keep my current suspension or replace it with bags, the CA's will likely be replaced. Ive found a bender for the bar and the bushing already. Ive got a friend that owns his own welding company so all i have to do is get the material and get it shaped. I just cant afford 600-800 and up on CA's.
Weed, you never surprise me! If you had the materials and tools i'd bet you'd end up building yourself a whole damn truck if you could
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by hoss67
I hear ya dude, i have anger issues when things dont go my way, and plus i get excited when using new tools, i try to see what they really can do which is not a good idea, so me with a hydralic pressor....... i just paid the price so i didnt **** up my truck lol and for the dude thats new, my ball joints didnt give my truck a vibration at all just squeaked like a mother..... replace the tie rods get them aligned and if that doesnt work maybe bearings? no idea

I replaced both outer ends on mine, and still have a heavy vibration. Possible rack?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by tim2006ram
I replaced both outer ends on mine, and still have a heavy vibration. Possible rack?
did u get it aligned? jack the truck up and wobble the tire around and see if there is any give.....
 
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:48 PM
  #34  
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I have an '04 that has a squeak when turning or going over a bump at low speeds... I thought it was the steering, but after getting the front end off the ground, and turning the wheel back and forth, it was gone. As soon as the wheels are back on the ground, the noise returns. (sounds like freshly shined tires truning on the garage floor) I guess my question is this: Could I have bad joints after only 40K miles? I lubed up all the rubber parts, and even took the bottom bolt out of the shocks, still can't find the noise.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #35  
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my 06 4x4 crewcab was a nightmare!! Couldnt find the right ends. Every part number it called for was WRONG. The ends looked right but the rodend was too big for my inners.This is the 3rd set (2nd time replaced) and i went with moog this time for the lifetime warrentee. What actually happened was i had to change the inners that bolt into the rack so the outters would work. Thankfully i know the manager and get a discount so instead of $300 it was $220, but still WTF a 100.00 1/2 hr job turned into 4 trips to the autoparts and 5 hrs!!! now to line it up will be another 80.00 but its done right
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #36  
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I was able to buy upper control arms with replacable ball joints with grease fittings.
The new ones are cast iron instead of aluminum, but the whole assembly was cheaper than the OEM style, and cheaper to just replace the joints next time.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Bubba870
just had all 4 ball joints replaced ...
from what i saw while watching him. take the wheels off and the rotors. the top joints are easy cause theyre just bolt on with the A arm.

the bottoms will have to be cut out or air hammered out. in fact, most of the time spent will be breaking down/putting back together.
Get a 4 wheel drive ball joint press kit (NOT hydraulic). It does everything from ball joints to U joints and will pay for itself the first time you use it. I got mine for $125 new at a local parts store.
I can also use it to press in pins into box chains where I work without heating/hammering the sh*t out of them.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Cordoba man
I was able to buy upper control arms with replacable ball joints with grease fittings.
The new ones are cast iron instead of aluminum, but the whole assembly was cheaper than the OEM style, and cheaper to just replace the joints next time.
Where did you find upper CA's with replaceable ball joints? I'd be very interested. I only have 49K miles on my truck and I have to replace all four ball joints. I'm not even sure the joints are even bad, yet, but when I did my brakes just last week, all for boots were broken so I'm sure grease went out and dirt went in. Friggen bummer. I just wish our OE UCAs had replaceable joints, pretty lame design.

EDIT: Nevermind. I see now you have a 4WD. They typically have replaceable upper ball joints anyway, right?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #39  
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CST makes UCAs with replaceable BJs. Not cheap though at about 800 bucks
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:54 AM
  #40  
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i did both inner tierods mopar under warrantee and they lasted ooooooooo 8000 miles!! Last time i went with moog outter BUT they were too big for the inners? After hrs and 3 autoparts stores i just changed the inners to moog too (200.00) just to have the lifetime warrantee now 8 months later my rack has play! Now dont get me wrong most people wouldnt notice it but i am very easily annoied with ANY ratle,knock,squeek,oe noise PERIOD! Now the new rack comes with the inners too so we'll see what happens with my moog outters or will i put mu 8 month old moog inners on too??? Ill see next week!
 
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