Hey now, you didnt lay down any stipulations. You wanna pay me now or do I need to come and collect......???

;-)

 

You asked for advice on getting the plugs out on the back two cylinders, driver's side. First, you gotta lay across the engine, second, there is good clearance btwn the brake booster and firewall and you'll find some manuvering room back there. I put my plug socket at the top of the plug hole and lower it partially down by holding the top of the socket with pliers. I then put a short extension in the socket and lower this down into the plug hole, holding it with my trusty pliers. Lastly add the socket wrench. I hope this helps.

 

Funny guy Weed. I did lay down a few stipulations. Ordinary hand tools, average Joe guy - not a pro wrench, and do it by the book. I'll add one more - stock truck. But it's not the vid I'd pay for - it's the actual work on my truck. The vid is to prove you can do it. Bottom line, I was just trying to make a point. No matter what mods you have on your truck, you've got to change 1 plug every 3 minutes, 45 seconds without stopping and that includes getting all your **** ready, pulling the coils and plugs, gooping and anti-siezing and gap-checking the plugs, installing the new plugs and coils and torqueing everything to spec.

 

i have all my plugs ready to go before i ever turn the first wrench, i have shorty wires and use air tools, guess i dont qualify for the dough. i do it assembly line style, all coil packs off first, then plugs out, ( all with air tools) then plugs in by hand. Where did you get the smaller booster Weed? worthwhile investment for someone like me running NOS, i go through quite a few plugs

 

I just did mine and it took a good 3.5 hours. JoeHemi nailed it. He did his exactly like I did mine. Leave the driver side coils off and just flip them by the TBI. I saved those two plugs for last but they were not as bad as I thought.

 

Not smaller. I just did a 3" body lift which of course raises the body away from the frame. The engine is mounted to the frame and the booster is mounted to the body.

 

Okay, I got the last 4 plugs changed. Damn it's hell on my old *** knees as you do have to knee up on the front bumper and lay across the engine basically. A small flashlight helped tremendously. When you can see what you are doing back there it's nowhere near as intimidating. And it also helps, as I said, to know which parts you can put down into the valve cover hole and stick out just enough to have some clearance and work with it. And a u-joint is a must for some of these plugs.

I think the biggest pain was the top coil-pack bolt on the next to the last coil pack on the driver's side. That's where the brake booster is most in the way. You can get a socket wrench in there to break the bolt loose but not much room for any kind of extension. But once you break it loose, you can't really get your fingers in there to turn it out or tighten it back up and there's not enough tension on it once it breaks loose to ratchet the socket wrench. Anyway, not hard, just time consuming. Glad to have it done and do it myself.

To the poster that said "I have all my plugs ready to go before I turn the first wrench", dude - that's time you have to include in the process. If you are prepping your parts or tools, that's part of the job and part of the time. Whether you do it plug by plug like I did, or goop and anti-sieze and gap check all your plugs the day before, that's time spent as part of the job. I probably have about 4 hours invested, A to Z, in getting it done. Won't take as long next time but it will darn sure take more than an hour or even two.

 

I did mine today after 91,000 mi - took 3 1/2 hrs and 3-4 beers. the ones behind the booster weren't too bad - it was the ones on the passenger side in the back that really sucked, with a fuel line, heater hoses, and wire loom in the way - frustrating. i had to disconnect 2 coils to get them in. the plugs really didnt look that bad after that many miles (gap was about .055), nice and clean, electrode looked new. i almost regapped them and put 'em back in. i think that 30K mi is just an excuse to get you into a dealer service center so you "dont void that lifetime warranty" while you pay them $100/hr for 6 hrs. my mileage was starting to fall off so that's why i went ahead and changed 'em. as for that guy who said he did it in an hour - i call bs on that. he said he did it between runs at the track ( i think) and if that's the case, then there's no a/c lines, cruise control cables, wire harness, etc in the way.
changed the belt, too - piece of cake.

 

Tru dat

 

Well, i am the one that said i can do it between runs, and i can, and everything is still on my truck, including some extra's like NOS solenoids, lines and an injection plate. I guess i cheat, acording to some because i have two sets sitting on the shelf, gapped and ready to go. I also use air tools, but hey, why work harder than one has to? Nitrous is very hard on plugs with extended use, and a dead plug is a disaster on nitrous motors, so i change or check them quite often throughout the racing season.